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On 12/18/2020 at 6:42 PM, blackhawkxx said:

Thanks for the effort.  Now you can finish up by reporting how it works in use on the Bird.  😀

😂. Of course.

 

I’m not likely to get to it soon, still waiting for these exhaust cans to show up, hoping they come this week as I’m off until 4th January from Christmas Eve.  We’ll see what happens I guess.

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So a full week of playing with the bird has yielded some fairly decent results.  Currently all that is left is to bleed the brakes, revisit the petrol tank hoses, mount the cans, change the oil, and f

Thank you   The SL came to me as a project last year, cost a massive £600.  Bodywork was awful but the engine was sweet.  Straight-six and smooth as a babys backside.  Couldn't get the orig

You do when you drop the bulb holders down deep in the cowl 😪

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So this week I finally got to do a few more things, this is the first time she's been run since May this year, half a doze turns of the engine and away she went.  Restarts have been instant since then.  To say I'm happy is an understatement, there are a couple of niggles to sort out, a small water leak on the water pump hose, and a minor blow at the exhaust headers, but they are tiny compared to what has been achieved over the last 7 months or so.

 

Not bad for someone with little experience of working on motorbikes, and thanks, in a large part, to the generous support and knowledge of the members of this forum.  So to everyone who has contributed and asked me searching questions along the way, I salute you, and offer my sincere thanks for keeping me going even when I hit some fairly major lows along the way.

 

 

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So the last few bits I've done have been to mount the cans, side and v-panels, and an oil change.  The video I posted earlier was the engine warming prior to draining the old oil and swapping the filter.

 

The cans were a bit of a pig to get on as the joints on the can were slightly smaller than the graphite gaskets, one of the tabs on the right hand can started to crack and go the same way as the original can, luckily I managed to get the gaskets on the collector easily and gently persuaded the cans on with a leather hammer.  Took a while and a lot of care but I got there in the end.

IMG_5034.thumb.jpg.846425e6b83aa782adfed1cfbb1f4637.jpg

 

All fired up to warm the oil for the change.

IMG_5036.thumb.jpg.d1bded1fac85b1c9a6e12f1b72fd935d.jpg

 

The new LED bulbs look good on the dash, cheap ones from eBay but look good.

IMG_5039.thumb.jpg.8caa997c7c527ab3ac3e6e33dc86a88c.jpg

 

The double USB socket has a built in voltmeter as well.

IMG_5040.thumb.jpg.69205f535f78067eccec83d3ee379bec.jpg

 

 So finally the garage has some room to allow me to get to things, the bird is happily sat in the middle and on the ground where she belongs, definitely raring to go.  All that's left is balance carbs and adjust the mixture.  I've also ordered a full set of silicon hoses and clips to sort out the coolant leak. 

 

IMG_5047.thumb.jpg.70a4a70bdbc444636bfbe681a022c0fb.jpg

 

IMG_5046.thumb.jpg.c21c5c416ba5d7150874c15b60c83346.jpg

 

So all that's left is to get it through the Manx test, should be straightforward enough, this bike's a bit like trigger's broom, most of it's been changed :)  (For those who don't understand the reference here's a YouTube video ;) Trigger's Broom

 

Edited by JaBr
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40 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said:

Good job.  Did you get the clear film on the forks?

Not yet, have the film, just completely forgot to fit it, d'oh!

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On 12/31/2020 at 10:26 AM, JaBr said:

 

 

The new LED bulbs look good on the dash, cheap ones from eBay but look good.

IMG_5039.thumb.jpg.8caa997c7c527ab3ac3e6e33dc86a88c.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

I really like the looks of the dash with the blue lights. 

How difficult was that to change out and do you have more info on the bulbs required? 

Edited by TFT
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14 hours ago, TFT said:

 

I really like the looks of the dash with the blue lights. 

How difficult was that to change out and do you have more info on the bulbs required? 

All I used was standard white LED's T10 Canbus compatible.

 

The blue is basically because of the brighter white light, the filter appears green with a standard yellow lamp because of the colour mixing.

 

The ones I purchased are These LED's  The price has nearly doubled, I paid £3.95 for 10, they seem to be £6.95 now.

 

They are easy to fit, get the screen off and you can access the rear of the clocks.  There are 4 large bulb holders spread across the rear of the clocks with T10 capless bulbs in.  Swap these out for the LEDs and make sure they all work before replacing the screen.  The holders tend to need the contacts bending slightly towards the centre or they don't work.

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20 hours ago, rockmeupto125 said:

British humor does take a bit of time, doesn't it?  😜

It's very old british humour :)  

 

Want some classics?

 

Radio comedy, Hancocks half hour, The navy lark, the goon show, Round the Horne

 

TV, Only fools and horses, Morecambe and Wise, Benny Hill

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42 minutes ago, rockmeupto125 said:

50 years ago I was dating a lovely lass who's mother was cockney. 

50 years ago I was barely an embryo 😆

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11 minutes ago, rockmeupto125 said:

Yeah, so respect your elders, colonists or not. 😜

Always Grandpa, always 😆

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5 hours ago, JaBr said:

Swap these out for the LEDs and make sure they all work before replacing the screen.  The holders tend to need the contacts bending slightly towards the centre or they don't work.

Being LED I assume they're polarity sensitive unless they have some kind of magic in them.  It could be that they didn't work at first because the holders just needed to be rotated 180 degrees to change the polarity.  Could it have been that and not the bending of the contacts that was keeping them from working?  I haven't played with the XX holders, but have never run across the contact problem on other vehicles' instrument lights.

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1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:

Being LED I assume they're polarity sensitive unless they have some kind of magic in them.  It could be that they didn't work at first because the holders just needed to be rotated 180 degrees to change the polarity.  Could it have been that and not the bending of the contacts that was keeping them from working?  I haven't played with the XX holders, but have never run across the contact problem on other vehicles' instrument lights.

It's possible I guess, although they have 2 conductive tracks on each side of the part that inserts into the holder, I would expect that negates the need to turn them 180 degrees.

 

I received 10 x T5 triple LED bulbs yesterday for the heater controls in my MiTo, same concept.  These new ones are pretty cool though, supplied in a strip rather than as small modules.  Pretty sure they're hand assembled, the top led's at least.

 

463817256_LEDStrip.thumb.jpeg.39ad13a7ecc2a0a2a4d75eb8a450306b.jpeg

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Those are zener switching diodes on the board, I assume there are two on the other side also?  If so they basically built a full wave bridge that has voltage control.  So they could run on AC or any DC polarity.  If not, I'm not sure how they could be polarity-insensitive.

 

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8 minutes ago, SwampNut said:

Those are zener switching diodes on the board, I assume there are two on the other side also?  If so they basically built a full wave bridge that has voltage control.  So they could run on AC or any DC polarity.  If not, I'm not sure how they could be polarity-insensitive.

 

There are indeed two on the other side as well.  Clever design now I look at it more closely.

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Basically a bridge rectifier.  I'm no electronics expert but I do like going through things like this :) 

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So on Thursday I put her in for the test, unfortunately she failed on the rear indicators.  My fault, I'd been going to rewire that section and settled for a connector instead, all worked fine as I left, by the time I reached the test centre the connector had vibrated loose and they weren't working.  On the plus side, that was the only failure and can be retested in a few minutes when I take it back.  Have paid for the retest and now just awaiting the appointment.

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10 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

That was bad luck.

No, it's proof that we need vehicle inspections to keep these kinds of deathtraps off the roads!

 

 

 

 

 

🙂

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19 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

No, it's proof that we need vehicle inspections to keep these kinds of deathtraps off the roads!

 

 

 

 

 

🙂

😆

 

To be fair, on the island we only have to get the vehicle tested once in it's lifetime as long as we keep up the road tax each year.  Road tax is currently £25 per year, you have to also provide proof of insurance when taxing.  Insurance for the bird is about £280 per year for me.

 

So basically you can still have a deathtrap as long as it's taxed 🙄

Edited by JaBr
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