Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum

Project Blackbird


Recommended Posts

19 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

The 'right' way is with gauges, I used a piece of wire as a feeler gauge.  It ran great & smooth so I never bothered to re-do it the 'right' way.  Pretty easy, once the airbox is out of the way.  To bad we didn't have this conversation before you re-assembled it.

To be fair I hadn’t even thought about it, I think me blocking off the open vacuum point is probably going to make a difference, why they didn’t seal it when the Scottoiler was removed is beyond me.  I’ve ordered a cheap set of gauges from fleabay and I’ll do it when I get those I guess.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 219
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

So a full week of playing with the bird has yielded some fairly decent results.  Currently all that is left is to bleed the brakes, revisit the petrol tank hoses, mount the cans, change the oil, and f

I added a computer fan to the fin side of the volt regulator, always on. My imagination tells me it keeps it cooler.

You do when you drop the bulb holders down deep in the cowl 😪

Posted Images

So, yesterday was fun 🙄

 

Got the new CCT in, very easy, out with the old

BA101ADC-4E41-45AA-AA31-6D3A75196013.thumb.jpeg.e7c6b443dcddc138908b79a07fc9f8f5.jpeg
 

And in with the new

0863FD94-9679-4421-A217-441C6AF62EB2.thumb.jpeg.0787b17a3d538517695dcbdb31f43bf1.jpeg

 

So the next job was to adjust the cameras so they picked up and recorded correctly, easy, however, as soon as I switched the bike on I noticed that only one of the four led lamps on the dash was working.  So the nosecone and screen had to be removed as well as the infills as I managed to drop a lamp and holder into the gunnels 🙄

 

Anyway, that sorted I fitted the rear cowl, it will need replacement as there are pieces missing but that’s no biggie.

77B099C9-C33B-4C61-B1EB-44238B8CB1C8.thumb.jpeg.d04203dceff82fdcab19207b43325cd8.jpeg


I thought I’d fit the exhaust cans next, one had previously been held on with a u bolt and manipulation of the tabs to try and make room to fit the gasket ended in one of them snapping off.  So not my finest hour.

 

I believe I have found a set of used replacement cans now so I’m happy that I can get that job done.  All that is outstanding now is as follows:

 

- Fit plastic protection film to fork legs

- Fit exhaust cans

- Oil change

- Fit side panels and V-Panel

 

It’s certainly been a journey.

Link to post
Share on other sites
56 minutes ago, rockmeupto125 said:

You know you don't have to pull the cowl to get to the gauges....

You do when you drop the bulb holders down deep in the cowl 😪

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

I think I'm getting silly, ordered a Morgan Carbtune, Colortune, and a fancy screwdriver today.  161 quid, ouchies.  But they're shiny...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't recall reading that you synched the carbs, make sure you do that before playing with the fuel screws.  And maybe doing it again afterwords if you find the fuel adjustments out of whack.  Actually, I'd leave the manometer on while doing the fuel adjustments, then you'd see if any change.  I'm guessing they wouldn't change unless the mixture was pretty far off.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/2/2020 at 4:49 PM, superhawk996 said:

I don't recall reading that you synched the carbs, make sure you do that before playing with the fuel screws.  And maybe doing it again afterwords if you find the fuel adjustments out of whack.  Actually, I'd leave the manometer on while doing the fuel adjustments, then you'd see if any change.  I'm guessing they wouldn't change unless the mixture was pretty far off.

I haven't yet, the carbtune will be in the same box as the colortune :).  If my understanding is correct the balance shouldn't be affected by the tuning, the balance is simply to make sure that the 'chokes' (may be the wrong word, the big brass flaps are what I mean) all open in synch when the (actuator) bar they are mounted on moves.  Over time they can gradually slip around the bar and that's why we need to balance them.

 

No idea what I'm going to find yet with regards to tuning, this bike had been looked after in some fairly basic ways, clean coolant for example, but not in many others, brake and clutch fluid were dark brown for example.  I suspect it does need a balance and tune though, that takes a bit more effort and expense.  My focus for now is to get it through the test, then registered and taxed.  Tuning isn't needed for that as there are no emissions tested for the manx test.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The first bird I bought was ridiculously out of synch, it wouldn't run without using the choke or holding the throttle open quite a bit.  It acted like I'd expect for clogged jets and assumed that was it.  When I looked into the carbs I could see that the throttle plates were all over the place.  I didn't have a manometer so I used a piece of wire as a feeler gauge to set them, it purred like a kitten.

 

I can't imagine it got that far out of whack on its own, nor can I imagine someone being so ignorant as to have adjusted them that way, but I've met people who've done dumber things to a vehicle.  Synch is part of normal maintenance, tuning isn't.  The tuning 'shouldn't' change unless the carbs are dirty, but it is possible.  I think the USA bikes, or at least the California bikes, have plugs over the tuning screws so they can't be messed with.  No clue if your laws require that.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:

The tuning 'shouldn't' change unless the carbs are dirty, but it is possible.  I think the USA bikes, or at least the California bikes, have plugs over the tuning screws so they can't be messed with.  No clue if your laws require that.

I agree, the exhausts were very black which indicates running rich to me, synch will be first, it may or may not need it, I won't know until I connect everything up.  After that I'll do the colortune and if it all looks good, I shall leave well alone.  I was getting about 45mpg when she was running, UK gallon (4.54Ltr), so she's probably not too far out, it may be that she's been tuned already but cleaning the exhausts was too much inconvenience for the previous owner.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Why should the synch change?

My assumption is movement/vibration wearing away material where the screws press, but I don't know.  I'm pretty sure I've seen it in the maintenance intervals of bikes so apparently it does, or at least can, change over time.  Pretty sure EFI bikes are adjustable also.  I don't think I've ever checked one as a maintenance item, only when doing repairs.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/8/2020 at 3:08 PM, superhawk996 said:

 Pretty sure EFI bikes are adjustable also.  I don't think I've ever checked one as a maintenance item, only when doing repairs.

From what I've read on the carbtune website it's useable to balance the throttles on injection bikes as well so assuming the option is there it will likely do the job.

 

My carbtune, colortune and fancy screwdriver arrived yesterday so I just need my exhaust cans and I can get the bike finished.  Test date is now 8th January.

IMG_4998.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, blackhawkxx said:

Can you show us your fancy screwdriver?

Most certainly :)

 

Overhead shot with a 12" steel rule for scale.  The head already fitted is a simple flat screwdriver.

IMG_4999.thumb.JPEG.119839bb9e538735a7d43da008ebaad3.JPEG

 

Head for attaching all those other different screwdrivers shown

IMG_5004.thumb.JPEG.7f563c60e1140134de407d120b8b3b20.JPEG

 

Closer shots of the set.  Head with the black piece was an optional extra that allows me to use standard hex bits.  The bit where the case has 'D' marked on it is the honda specific bit for adjusting 'D' type carburettor screws.

IMG_5001.thumb.JPEG.56b05a356ffc1a4cb3f98fc7b885d703.JPEG

 

IMG_5002.thumb.JPEG.30f440ffe8e51287996039d569a996b7.JPEG

 

IMG_5002.thumb.JPEG.30f440ffe8e51287996039d569a996b7.JPEG

 

IMG_5003.thumb.JPEG.a881872a141f38b7984d593e129bf6dd.JPEG

 

Finally the gear drive that goes into the heads

IMG_5006.thumb.JPEG.64c8536d3c5abb37db98ed432756e340.JPEG

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Thanks Jabr.  Are the gears steel?  The reason I ask is the Pro Motion one I was looking at had aluminum gears and a lot of the reviews said the gears would strip very easy.  What is the brand name of yours?

I'll have to get the magnet out and check later.

 

Brand is Morgan, the people who make the CarbTune

Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Thanks Jabr.  Are the gears steel?  The reason I ask is the Pro Motion one I was looking at had aluminum gears and a lot of the reviews said the gears would strip very easy.  What is the brand name of yours?

The photo isn't good enough to say for sure, but it appears to be powdered metal.  Not as good as 'real' steel gears, but should be plenty good enough for this use.  Many power tools use powdered metal gears.  The connecting rods in my Excursion are powdered metal.  The stuff is quite durable, much more so than aluminum, just not as good as 'real' steel.

Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Thanks Jabr.  Are the gears steel?  The reason I ask is the Pro Motion one I was looking at had aluminum gears and a lot of the reviews said the gears would strip very easy.  What is the brand name of yours?

 

I emailed the company to be sure, this is what they sent me.  As soon as they come back with confirmation I'll post it.

 

Hello Jason

 

This is a product we bring in. We don’t manufacture it.

As far as I know gears are made from a hardened steel.

What I do know is we have been selling them for many years and never had one back with damaged gears. They do seem very tough.

I’ll ask the supplier and see what they say.

 

Best regards

 

Sean Morgan

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sean has got back to me and says the gears are made from:

 

SCM415(Chrome Molybdenum)

 

So essentially it is an alloy of steel.

Edited by JaBr
  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use