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ptxyz

should i install this stator?

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starter sounded slower than normal.  checked with my voltmeter and read just over 12 volts while running at the newish battery.  only 10-15 volts at the stator while running.  the rectifier (& a spare) passed the diode testing.

 

i received this from an ebay seller yesterday and noticed a flake of the green epoxy in the bag as i opened it;

 

 

IMG_3272.JPG

Edited by ptxyz

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I doubt that chip is any cause for concern.  Who made it, would be more my concern.  Is is from Rick's Motorsport?  How much did you pay?

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Oh hell no.  Fuck no.  You're just looking for trouble.  Green is NOT an appropriate color for an engine part.

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A stator from ebay??
That would not be my choice to install.
Curious, your are replacing the Stator but not the Regulator/Rectifier?
How can you check the R/R if the Stator is bad?

 

Just my opinion but there are many here with much more experience than I have but here is my .02.
Raw AC voltage is generated by the stator dependent on RPM of crank.
That large amount of AC voltage is then sent to the R/R to be rectified to DC voltage and then regulated to 12-15 VDC .
Many times when the R/R goes bad (usually from heat) it just stops working and shunts everything to ground or possible even cooking the connectors but rarely causes damage to the stator since it is electrically after the stator. On the other hand when the stator goes bad it usually has a short which often takes out the R/R after it.
Personally I have replaced the R/R many times without an issue to the stator but have never replaced a stator and found that the R/R was still good with the new stator.
I don't know of any way to check the R/R without having a known good stator first but other may know better.

 

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I wouldn't install it but that is me.  If the green stuff was in the box, that means that it wasn't packaged properly to prevent shipping damage.  Contact seller and show the photo.

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No.

 

Go straight to Rick's.

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the brand is motoplat, i paid $100.

 

electrosport has a test for rectifiers here;

 

https://www.electrosport.com/pages/technical-resources

 

both the one in the bike and a used known working one tested ok.

 

this is my second stator failure, although not on the same bird.

 

i've asked the seller what they think.  if they'll still accept a return if i install and find it doesn't work, i'm tempted to try.  i installed a cheap ($35'ish) caltric stator on my klr several months ago and have had no issues.  then again, my recent chain saga...

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12 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

I wouldn't install it but that is me.  If the green stuff was in the box, that means that it wasn't packaged properly to prevent shipping damage.  Contact seller and show the photo.

Stators are pretty damn tough so I wouldn't be concerned that it got bumped around.  If it chipped without being hit that would be concerning, I wouldn't want that shit falling off in my engine.

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Anyone ever heard of verifying the R/R is good to go when the Stator is know bad?
Is it even possible to check the R/R without a good Stator?

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16 hours ago, ptxyz said:

the brand is motoplat, i paid $100.

 

electrosport has a test for rectifiers here;

 

https://www.electrosport.com/pages/technical-resources

 

both the one in the bike and a used known working one tested ok.

 

this is my second stator failure, although not on the same bird.

 

i've asked the seller what they think.  if they'll still accept a return if i install and find it doesn't work, i'm tempted to try.  i installed a cheap ($35'ish) caltric stator on my klr several months ago and have had no issues.  then again, my recent chain saga...

$100 dollars is cheap.  $35 is STUPID cheap, and I would never buy that one unless it was used OEM.

OzarXX 2018 my stator fried on my Triumph, and I rode it over a 100 miles on battery alone, with a couple of bump starts, of course.  Replaced it with a Rick's (still working great), and then paid $55 for a R/R (not Rick's) that lasted 15 months and barely 4000 miles.  I kept the OEM R/R just in case.  Glad I did.  It wasn't bad.  Tossed the fried cheap unit, and so far, so good.

FYI, if you run a lithium battery, and your R/R shorts out, well just add a new battery to the list.  Some people say you can bring a Lifo back to life, but from a 1/4 volt?  Would love to see that.  No, I don't still have the dead battery for you to try.

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On 2/14/2020 at 11:14 AM, superhawk996 said:

Stators are pretty damn tough so I wouldn't be concerned that it got bumped around.  If it chipped without being hit that would be concerning, I wouldn't want that shit falling off in my engine.

Is that what was floating around in Tomek's R1????

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1 hour ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

Is that what was floating around in Tomek's R1????

Wouldn't you like to know.

 

Too fucking bad, you shoulda kept up with whatever he thinks he said that spelled it out for you.  And just when you think you found the answer, guess again bitch; you were wrong!

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ebay seller will be getting a return, they paid shipping.

 

i ordered another from the rick's website.

 

will be nice to start riding the bird again.  guess californy's about done for rain this season...

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finally made the time to install a rick's stator today.  no drama other than tearing one of the stock plastic harness ties.  14.4 volts at idle, yay!

 

now for a test ride, 1st time in almost a month!

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Dumb question.  In the manual it states to put sealant on the crankcase face prior to the gasket in the "area shown".  It looks like that is the two little areas on the right and left per this diagram.  Is that correct ??   Not the entire surface ?  

image.thumb.png.8b7afa85e1981d71922f5dc559f1ebac.png

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1 hour ago, SierraKLR said:

It looks like that is the two little areas on the right and left per this diagram.

Yup.  The reason is to seal the parting line between the case halves, any gap or variation in height between the two could let it leak past the gasket.  A little dab on each line is sufficient, no reason to go crazy with it.  My favorite is Permatex Right Stuff, but any sealant designed for engine oil contact parts should be perfectly fine.  If the old sealant didn't peel off you probably don't actually need any, but better safe than sorry.

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Use Honda Bond, or something similar from any of the bike manufacturers.

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Thanks,

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