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Edward Hewitt

Battery keeps dying

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Last year my rectifier relay went bad so I decided to change my battery, solenoid, rectifier and stator. The bike ran perfectly for a year and now the bike wont start again even after being on the tender. The tender reads full charge but wont start. Any ideas?????20181022_171952.thumb.jpg.f62f8fcc9bc9beedde42ec2599ca0a6a.jpg

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What does happen when you try to start?

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As above, what does it do when you try to start. Does headlight come on with the key?  Tender removed.

And if you dont have a meter, buy one.  They are invaluable in todays world.

Remove the ground cable from the battery.

12.5-13 volts dc is a good start.  Charge the battery overnight, still disconnected.  Measure after a day, still disconnected.  It still needs to be 12.5 or more. If less, probable bad battery. If more, connect the battery and monitor the voltage for a day.

Keep the key off.

Nothing on the xx will drop the battery.  If it drops much, you have some troubleshooting. If not, monitor voltage with headlights on. 

Battery should still read over 12 volts .

If not, probable battery.

Next, monitor with starter running.

A good battery may drop to 10 volts with starter running.  Back to over 12 volts when you release starter.  If not, probable battery.

The sad thing is , batterys are different quality.  My origional agm lasted over 7 years.  Others 1-2 years.

Im trying the high priced LiFePo battery now.

I talked to John during Racer xx Thursday. His last lifepo lasted 7 years.  So ill update my results in 2026,😎.

 

Post up your results, and we can armchair more troubleshooting.

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BTW, if you hook a car battery in parallel (+ to +, - to ground) or just hook in a car battery in lieu of the bike's battery, the higher CCAs will let you know immediately if it's a battery issue.  Whenever my battery has acted up and I want to be sure it's the battery (all other tests indicate it's likely good), this answers everything.  Instant crank and start and run with no issues?  Weak/dead battery that just tests false positive for functionality.

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The nice looking TI. I leave mine parked in the garage and gets away into the minuses, and it starts in the spring no problem.

 

... to back up the earlier statement that nothing on a XX will drop the battery.

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5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

BTW, if you hook a car battery in parallel

 

In series, it will crank much faster.

 

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2 hours ago, XXitanium said:

The nice looking TI. I leave mine parked in the garage and gets away into the minuses, and it starts in the spring no problem.

 

... to back up the earlier statement that nothing on a XX will drop the battery.

Maybe on the slow ones, once you get into the red year and beyond I think there's some draw, but I haven't measured it.

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1 hour ago, SwampNut said:

 

In series, it will crank much faster.

 

 

"yes.

burn out starters very fast on any of the new ones...
The old starters(late 50's,60's-70's)... I ran fords... they last forever especially the 6v starters on 24v lol...

The longer you crank them the better chance u have of burning them up.. a new starter can burn up after 2 starts...you need a Heavy wound starter that don't skimp on the gauge.

Read more: http://we-crash.proboards.com/thread/45672/24v-cranking-any#ixzz5j2CYSu2f"

 

 

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Just now, superhawk996 said:

Maybe on the slow ones, once you get into the red year and beyond I think there's some draw, but I haven't measured it.

 

...probably a lull in the Force...

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Digital dash does have a time clock. 

But it’s draw is probably in micro amps. Not enough to worry about.

but then you knew that. 😄

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