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jon haney

Blackbird drag race parts

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I am converting the "Drag Bird" back to street trim.  As such, I have many parts (some custom) that are available for sale at very good prices.

-Foremost is the custom extended swing-arm with wheelie bar mounts, wheelie bars, and adj. strut.  Also, included with this is an RK DR 530 chain (1 year old), custom chain-guard and trimmed rear fender.

-Dyna ARC-2 ignition with coils (SOLD)

-MPS Air-powered hydraulic clutch master & lever

-MRE single-stage lock-up for 6 spring clutches and extended coverPMRA-Tulsa10-16.jpg.6815f785b77888e4e35b1f8e1f3e3cc8.jpgPMRA10-29-17win.thumb.jpg.01f23787c5160c707b7c71dc811914e6.jpg

-Dedenber RTD-6 delay box with custom mount (fits in the clip-on pinch bolts)

-Real carbon fiber mirror block off plates (lovingly made by a Boeing employee)  (SOLD)

-Custom lowering brackets for stock rear-sets (about 1.5")

-Yoshimura RS-3 header with spring-mounted straight extension pipe that also mounts to the custom swing-arm

-Shortened stock side stand

-Air shifter (cylinder, valve, & high-pressure CO2 bottle, no regulator) with custom cylinder mount and modified shift pedal.  Also have Dyna shift counter for ignition kill. (SOLD)

-Extra low-pressure air bottle.

-Custom bracket, air cylinder, and valve for rear line lock (pushes on rear brake pedal)

-Big rear sprockets 60T, 57T, 55T, 53T, and 15T front

-May have a race-cut transmission in the future, but condition of bearings is suspect.  Depends on what Joe sends me for replacement.

 

I think that does it.  Can send individual pics, if interested.  Bike won its last race and made fastest pass of career (9.43).

Let me know.

Edited by jon haney

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LOL.  Looks like I had my cursor in the wrong place when I inserted the pics.

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BUMP.

Come on guys.  Don't make me scrap these things.  Surely someone could use some of this stuff.

 

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Peepa?

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Surely you wouldn't scrap all that stuff.  Ebay to start.  I would buy quite a bit of it but I gave up racing when they gave up on the bike class at my local track.  Now I've got too many other things going on to even think about racing even if they did bring back a class for us.

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...picture  of the header maybe?

 

 

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I'll open the bidding with a 6 pack of Coors Light for the whole shebang.

 

But really, I wish I had a use for it.  The Dyna ignition is intriguing, even tho it's probably a waste to run it on a stock bike.

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18 hours ago, XXitanium said:

...picture  of the header maybe?

 

 

Still mounted to the bike, so I'll need a week or so on that one.  Have to get the triple off the lift first.

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6 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

I'll open the bidding with a 6 pack of Coors Light for the whole shebang.

 

But really, I wish I had a use for it.  The Dyna ignition is intriguing, even tho it's probably a waste to run it on a stock bike.

Ouch, and cheap beer on top of that. 😬

The ignition also has a 2-step, tach output, and fixed timing retard (maybe for nitrous).

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...most of that is jargon to me. No use on street bikes, right?

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Two step is two rev limiters.  You can set one for your burnout RPM limit and one for your launch RPM limit...or whatever.  The timing retard can be used for nitrous or boost, tho ideally for boost it would be a retard curve instead of a fixed retard.  Could also be used on a high compression motor to retard for pump gas for street riding and then take out the retard for full timing advance on race gas.  The system also bumps up the spark energy to ensure a good spark with the extra cylinder pressure of boost or nitrous.

 

 

Ok, just cuz I gotta know....  Price for the ignition?  And is it something that has to be cut & spliced in or plug & play?

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I have a Dyna on the Banshee and while I don't know what a stock spark looks like on them, the spark on mine is fairly impressive at slow hand pushing the kick starter speeds.

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Jon, I'm not really in need of anything but the single stage lock up intrigues me, but have no idea if it will be helpful for my set up, never used one before. Right now the bastard race bike won't even start.

I'll take the mirror block offs. My shifter is elec over air (Pingel, not crazy about it) but I bought a co2 regulator to go on the standard size bottle.You running a small bottle under the seat? I was thinking just using a paint ball bottle. Pm with prices.

Also, if your on Facebook, there is the Modified Blackbirds page, should be able to move the stuff there.

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3 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

Two step is two rev limiters.  You can set one for your burnout RPM limit and one for your launch RPM limit...or whatever. 


Typically in drag racing, you would have your first limiter for clutch in and the second one for clutch out.  It allows you to set a launch limit, say 6k, so as long as the clutch is in, that's what it bounces at, so you can sit at the start line with the throttle pinned and it keeps it there.  Then when the clutch releases, you have an upper limit, so you don't over-rev the engine to the point of destruction.  With an air controlled clutch and all the other things listed, I'm guessing this is how he had it set up.

In car racing, this would take you out of the "footbrake" class, where electronics like that are not allowed.  In these parts, you have three brackets for bracket racing, 1, 2, and 3.  3 is a street car that has an ET or speed limit.  Also if you win too much in bracket 3 they will force you into bracket 2.  2 is footbrake, which in some areas allows for a transbrake, however is usually just what the name implies, your foot holding the brake down and you launch like that, but no rev limiter at the launch or a crossover box (way too much drama to explain that thing.)  1 is all electronics; transbrake, crossover box, 2-steps, etc.

All of the above goes out the window if you're talking about index racing, where the track determines the ET and you have to be within so many hundredths of that number.  Those guys use all kinds of cheats to get right on the fringe of being booted to the next class.  What he has for sale is child's play in those classes.

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2 hours ago, Furbird said:


Typically in drag racing, you would have your first limiter for clutch in and the second one for clutch out.  It allows you to set a launch limit, say 6k, so as long as the clutch is in, that's what it bounces at, so you can sit at the start line with the throttle pinned and it keeps it there.  Then when the clutch releases, you have an upper limit, so you don't over-rev the engine to the point of destruction.  With an air controlled clutch and all the other things listed, I'm guessing this is how he had it set up.

In car racing, this would take you out of the "footbrake" class, where electronics like that are not allowed.  In these parts, you have three brackets for bracket racing, 1, 2, and 3.  3 is a street car that has an ET or speed limit.  Also if you win too much in bracket 3 they will force you into bracket 2.  2 is footbrake, which in some areas allows for a transbrake, however is usually just what the name implies, your foot holding the brake down and you launch like that, but no rev limiter at the launch or a crossover box (way too much drama to explain that thing.)  1 is all electronics; transbrake, crossover box, 2-steps, etc.

All of the above goes out the window if you're talking about index racing, where the track determines the ET and you have to be within so many hundredths of that number.  Those guys use all kinds of cheats to get right on the fringe of being booted to the next class.  What he has for sale is child's play in those classes.

The only time I used a two step was in a car, and it was used for burnout and launch.  Max RPM was already set by the ECU as it is in a Bird's ECU, tho his may be set up differently.  I don't see the need for a burnout limiter, but that's how the guy had the car set up so I followed instructions and drove it.  I guess it just takes some of the thinking out of the whole thing making it easier to be consistent.  He was bracket racing so consistency is key.  Hold the line lock & burnout limiter button, pin the throttle for three seconds then roll out of it.  Hold the line lock and launch limiter button then release both buttons and the clutch at go time.  That experience is one of those few that sticks with me.  Side stepping the clutch at 5,000 RPM on sticky tires and doing a wheelie in a full body 95 Cobra R was spectacular.  It was like being rear ended, but fun.

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I have all three on my Mustang, burnout, launch and max RPM.  Speaking of burnout, I watched a guy that I knew casually with a perfect 68 427 Camaro hurt is really bad doing one by over revving it. 

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It's all on how your engine is set up and how the factory ECU is as well.  Factory ECU's are typically set up to kill RPM far before it gets to the actual point of hurting the engine, because DUMBASSES.  For instance, a lot of cars are set up to kill fuel at max RPM, although the engine is still making power, so a popular option is to use a programmer to remove that limit (or raise it so high it's at damn near valve floating range) and use an aftermarket ignition to control it by interrupting spark.  Much less likely to go kablamalam.

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11 hours ago, Furbird said:

For instance, a lot of cars are set up to kill fuel at max RPM, although the engine is still making power

Once injection is cut no more power is made.  You can stand on the throttle in neutral.  Cutting fuel is safer in most cases, with no fuel in the cylinder nothing happens but a wasted spark.  No spark with fuel injected can cause problems.

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I think you might want to look up running an engine lean before you make such a statement.  Lean is exponentially worse than rich, and the spark interrupter (it doesn't cut it, it modifies the timing so it fires so far after TDC that it creates little to no compression on that stroke, and varies it between all cylinders so it's not the same one over and over.)

First hit on google:

https://itstillruns.com/dangers-running-lean-8113517.html

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I understand the dangers of running lean, there is no danger if running air.  No injection, no fuel, not lean.

Edited by superhawk996

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Surest way to quickly and efficiently kill turbocharged port injected engine is to run it against fuel cut rev, boost or speed limiter.

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1 hour ago, tomek said:

Surest way to quickly and efficiently kill turbocharged port injected engine is to run it against fuel cut rev, boost or speed limiter.

How are the millions of factory turbo cars surviving?

 

I don't see how giving the cylinder no fuel can be damaging, please explain.

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If you had clicked on my link, you would have read what I was referring to.  But I figured I'd let somebody else chime in so I didn't catch all the flak.

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For my understanding, what is actually happening with a modern engine that claims to shut down a couple cylinders to conserve fuel? 

I see many V8 cars claiming better gas mileage by shutting down a couple cylinders  when not needed while cruising

down the highway getting improved mileage.

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