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fizzy

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Everything posted by fizzy

  1. I have to imagine Honda already did that, probably using a Sumo wrestler.
  2. This is for the vfr800, blackbird very similar. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuYjv1t-pn8
  3. poida, "when i wind the spring in the cct back and then release it the motor no longer has the buzz/vibration.that usually lasts for a few days till it comes back" This is the same as pushing down on the corner of a car and watching it bounce back. It doesn't actually do anything. As you have extra CCT's why don't you add 1 turn to the clock spring on a spare one? Fowlers UK shows p/n 05140MAT325 for lifter only £91.61 14520MATE22 for the kit. £114.72 Note: this is p/n for all years.
  4. You want the "double dot" version, which I believe is the newer one. By the way, it is possible to give an old CCT a new lease of life by adding 1 or 2 turns to the clock spring. To do this, disassemble unit, you will find inside a spring with 10 turns of pretension. Simply reassemble giving it 11 or 12 turns. I say simply, but actually is tricky but doable.
  5. Why people continue to go to The Garage for garage advice is a mystery. Edit: Nice chart Tomek clearly showing the progressive nature of the air gap.
  6. If you believe the difference is measurable then prove it. Measure the sag both ways using method above (air settled vs air under compression) and report back.
  7. I obviously should have said "normal air gap". Didn't think that was necessary on a sophisticated motorcycle forum in the "garage".
  8. Compressible air gap only has a meaningful effect on fork action at the bottom roughly 25% of the stroke, giving a linear spring a progressive action. It has no measurable effect at the top where the sag is measured.
  9. Do you mean the front is stock except for the springs? These forks as delivered by Honda are not adjustable for sag. In order to adjust sag, the spring spacer length would have to be changed. As blackhawkxx states above, check with Hyperpro. FYI: oil air gap has no affect on sag.
  10. fizzy

    Wiring harness

    Peter, first off, let me say that if you allow the dealer to mess around with replacing the wiring harness you will end up spending more than the bike is worth and no promise that the issue will be solved, IMO. Anyway, the bike is showing an FI light. To find the code: bike running, in neutral, side stand down. FI light will flash a 2 digit code (or series of codes if there is more than 1). What is the code?
  11. Mosfet? http://www.roadstercycle.com/index.htm
  12. I used this method also. By hanging the front of the tank from the ceiling you get more access. However, this stresses the fuel line enough that mine started weeping from the crimp. For that reason I am not a fan of this method, especially if you still have original 20 Y/O lines. If you do this I recommend to double check for leaks before you ride off into the sunset.
  13. You didn't say if the ECU was strapped down. Anyway, make sure it is. Wiggling the wires at idle will not trigger code 25, she performs a self test on start up and revving, which for you = 500yds. Recommend #4 next, loom fix. Type in "loom fix" in the search function, top of page. With some hunting, you will find one with pics. This is where with some basic soldering skills, the junction block I mentioned before, is cut off and the appropriate wires soldered together. I did this on my bike (as the block was corroded) to fix a code 25. It worked for 10 000 miles. Then the code returned. Out of options, I bought a used ECU. Some posters have reported running issues with a code 25. I had none. Just very annoying. That's why I asked. If anyone knows of an outfit that can, and has, repaired a blackbird ECU for code 25, that would be good info. Moderator; I checked the forum called "important/useful" looking for loom fixes. There is one, but the pics don't work. Is there something you/we can do to make this useful again? Thanks
  14. Key symbol on the dash is HISS, yes. As far as code 25, or knock sensor, it won't be the knock sensor. This is a not uncommon malady of the analog dash FI bikes. Possible causes of code 25: 1. ECU not strapped down 2. 2 large ECU multi pin connectors..... pins not 100% clean 3. 2 large ECU multi pin connectors.....wires/pins damaged. maybe due to cause 1. 4. "Loom fix" There is a connector buried in the loom under tape (LHS near battery) that corrodes. Can be fixed. 5. Bad ECU 6. Bad knock sensor or knock sensor wiring. The knock sensor wire has a braided sheath that is grounded. Check the wire. Bad knock sensor, unlikely, but possible I guess. Question, does the bike run normally. ? Power, fuel economy etc.?
  15. Excess oil from the chain can get slung up there along with the aforementioned road grime. Installing a rear hugger will help keep this area and the rear shock clean and help protect the main loom which runs unprotected above the chain, which as we all know is vulnerable to corrosion triggering a service called the "loom fix".
  16. Do either of you have a rear hugger? Helps keep road grime where it belongs.
  17. I would revisit the loom fix. Sounds like a bad ground, and the loom fix is basically a ground junction block. Try adding a ground wire to the ground terminal on the horn (green wire) as a test.
  18. Sandman, if the fuel pump relay (I assume your "fuel cut off relay") is clicking on with ignition on, then your ECU is sending the correct signal. First off, make sure you have identified the correct relay. There is another one called the engine stop relay. Anyway, the fuel pump relay will click on with ignition, then click off after about 5 secs. If that happens, then just trace the brown wire from the relay to the fuel pump. The green one on the pump is a ground. Make sure its grounded.
  19. This would work without risk to other bike. Remember, there are 2 FI models, analog dash and digi dash, each with different ECU. Plugging in a known good ECU into bike with question mark over the electrical system.......not recommended. Best to disconnect battery before messing with ECU.
  20. Ok, but maybe the other way around would be safer? I don't let my precious ECU out at night to play with other bikes. don't know what kind of shape it may come back in. 😀
  21. If the relay is clicking, then it is probably good, but, switch the relays around. There is more than 1. FYI: turn on ignition, the pump relay should click (on), then 5 or so seconds later, should click again (off). The pump will not stay on more than about 5 secs unless the engine is running.
  22. Fuel pump or fuel pump relay? I am talking about the relay, sorry if I wasn't clear. Specifically, my post above refers to the relay trigger wires.
  23. What exactly does this mean? This is tricky to measure as the ECU provides signal to both wires, and neither one is necessarily a bike "ground", according to the wiring diagram.
  24. Haven't heard that exact thing, no. But it is certainly possible. One thing I have heard more than once is that the ECU for some reason (basically, it failed) no longer gives the signal to the fuel pump relay. Anyway, check the 2 big connectors to the ECU, pins all clean and correct? No broken wires, ECU strapped down? Note: in a pinch, the pump can be wired to come on with ignition, bypassing the ECU. Remember you would be bypassing all the safety features too.
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