superhawk996

I don't recall reading that you synched the carbs, make sure you do that before playing with the fuel screws. And maybe doing it again afterwords if you find the fuel adjustments out of whack. Actually, I'd leave the manometer on while doing the fuel adjustments, then you'd see if any change. I'm guessing they wouldn't change unless the mixture was pretty far off.

Also-fuel pumps, and motors in general, can do goofy shit where they'll work/not work for no obvious reasons. Not common, but I've run into it a few times. I recently had an Explorer with an intermittently dead pump that I was almost certain couldn't be the pump, but everything else checked out so the customer decided to take the gamble and have me replace it. Been trouble free for many months.

In the beginning wiggling the wires or connector at the pump made it work so it seems like the problem is in that area. Wires in the run are very unlikely to have a problem without external signs of damage. The most likely issue would be at the connector. Next on the list would be the connection between the terminals and the pump itself. I don't know how they're attached on the Bird, but a rivet type connection is pretty common and they can get loose & corroded/burnt.

If the bike still cranked with the bad battery but the fuel pump wouldn't run, the battery wasn't the cause of the fuel pump issue. A new battery might make the fuel pump run because the extra power could overcome whatever the actual problem is, but it's not the solution.

Were the pins stuck/hard to move? If not, keep checking the temp on it when you drive.

If you find that the hose or caliper needs to be replaced, before disconnecting anything find something to hold the brake pedal down about an inch or two. That'll keep the master from draining so you don't have to do a full bleeding which can be a bitch. I usually use something placed between the front of the seat and the pedal, sometimes between the steering wheel and pedal. Once everything's assembled: remove the fill cap, loosen the caliper bleed nipple, and release the pedal. Gravity will push the fluid in and the air out, just don't let the reservoir go empty. You can give

The WD didn't cause it, it just made you aware of an existing problem by adding smell. Or maybe the brake problem coincidentally happened right after the WD was used. Something's sticking: the pins, the piston, or the pads. The likelihood of the culprit is in that order from my So. Cal. experiences. In high rust areas it becomes impossible to predict. Another possibility is the hose, they can degrade internally and become somewhat of a check valve. If you don't find anything physically stuck, replace the hose. There's some possibility that the ABS module, assuming it has ABS, could caus

There's no way he'll admit to his problem nor will he willingly stop this destructive behavior. If we pull together we can solve this problem for him. As his brothers we need to take all the excess vehicles from him. It will take a coordinated effort, many will have to sacrifice their time, energy, or other resources available to them. I will take the lead by offering housing for as many vehicles as y'all can pry from his hands and deliver.

Don't you fret. I'm gonna mark them up 50% and put them up for sale here so you still have a shot at them!

If nobody chimes in with an immediate use/strong desire for them I'll put them in my bulb box to use as needed. I still work on old stuff so they'd eventually find homes.

Lots of minor/easy fix possibilities for the leak, but since they don't have a low oil shutdown the engine is likely fucked.

It threw a rod through the block. Figured I'd be the first to take a stab in the dark.

I think the best Ford Diesel is a properly bulletproofed 6.0. Second best is a 7.3. When the seller says "bulletproofed by professionals" instead of naming the shop I assume it's one of the many half assed bullet proofing jobs. "Everything works as far as I know" is another red flag.

🤣🤣