superhawk996

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superhawk996 last won the day on March 25

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About superhawk996

  • Birthday 04/16/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    L.A. Ca.
  • Interests
    Boats, cars, bikes, guns, chicks, going fast.....

Previous Fields

  • Other Bikes
    '01 Bird. '76 Motto Guzzi Convert.

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  1. I was ready to jump at it, but the misaligned 6 on the odo was a deal breaker. She is fuckin purdy tho.
  2. Any reason you went with one from each? I assume if you ordered both from the same place you'd get a discount.
  3. I strongly recommend getting rid of that big junction block and using crimp terminals, waterproof ones ideally. If there's any wires that are twisted together, looks like there might be, I'd put them into crimp terminals as well. Soldered wires are a bad idea unless they're well supported, movement/vibration can cause them to break. I assume one could keep the Honda connector salvaged from the old switch, permanently attach the Suzuki wires to it, then add crimp terminals for any extra wires. Since the DRL wire becomes an extra it could be used for the headlight flash so it sounds like the factory connector would have enough wires to do the job. I like those switching LEDs, never heard of them. BTW, there's no need to use clear lenses, all that does is allow the color change. I'm not sure which color would be more likely to add visibility/grab attention to the bike. If the clear is really bright it could cause blinding to others on the road like running with the high beam on. Tho many like to do this to make them be more visible, this makes it harder to judge your speed & distance so it can me more dangerous. Amber lenses should cut the brightness down some, whether good or bad.
  4. Did you use that to make use of the extra switches? Did you wire in the headlight flash and hazards?
  5. I doubt it requires magic, but might as well use every advantage possible. Good idea!
  6. Unbolt them and verify there's nothing between the rotors and wheel causing it. If all's good there try for a refund or exchange. If you can't return them check the buttons to make sure they're not jammed up. I accidentally warped a rotor once doing a tire change. I found where the warp was and was able to pull on it by hand & the pulse went away. Get the front in the air and spin the tire to figure out which is warped where. You can hold something against the fork like a screwdriver with the tip at or near the rotor and see where the high/low areas are while it spins.
  7. Or fully polish it and clear coat, or finish with NeverDull, it might hold up for quite some time between touch ups. Or have it anodized. Or re-paint. I'd polish it and finish with neverdull and see how it holds up, if it turns shitty and you don't wanna maintain it you could paint it or clear it.
  8. Sometimes the cop goes after the prize, sometimes the easy hanging fruit gets bitten.
  9. Every time someone says they have to adjust their chain every 1-2 hundred miles it's because they're doing something wrong. Sometimes it's over tightening and expecting it to remain at near 0 deflection, or not getting the hardware tightened right so the axle slips. Once in a while it's junk parts or total lack of lubing along with constant hot-rodding. I don't know where your 1/8" of slack is, but wherever it is it shouldn't be there. Loosen axle nut, turn adjuster on left 'till the chain is almost as tight as it's supposed to be, turn right adjuster to be even with left and verify chain slack. If you go too far tight loosen the adjusters just a little and bang the back of the tire to push everything foreword against the adjusters again and continue checking/adjusting. Once it's good tighten the axle nut then turn the adjusters to put some tension on them. Roll the tire while checking chain slack, if there's tight/loose spots (almost always some amount of imperfection) you wanna make sure the tight spots aren't overly tight. If the unevenness is extreme there's stuff to check out. I usually use the little marks to set the alignment, but there are better ways if you care to get it perfect. I've never had a chain that needed adjusting every 200 miles even with lots of throttle/wheelie/speed abuse. I don't know that not putting tension on the adjusters would allow the axle to slip and I assume it won't since the manual doesn't state it needs it done. I've always loaded them after tightening the axle because there's no harm in doing so and they could help prevent movement.
  10. Sold. I should be out soon, probably with Matt, to get Jeep parts. Ship if you wanna, or sit on them a couple weeks.
  11. Their phone number or paint number? I assume nobody would have their own numbers for standard colors that already have a code, but they might give you the recipe that the code calls for. Pretty much useless information and there's a chance they'll have to tweak it to the eye afterward anyway.
  12. A paint shop can get you a few ounces like I got up to gallons. They can even make spray cans if you don't have a sprayer. They might even know an experienced guy that can do it for you at a reasonable cost.
  13. Try going to a paint shop with the bike or a clean part off of it and have it matched. I tried getting some for my white '99 Ford, should be simple right? Even the dealer doesn't sell the right white, but it's listed as being the Z1 white on my truck's ID sticker. I had a shop do it using the number and it was much better than Ford and Duplicolor, but not quite there. I then took the truck over and he got it as close as my eyes can tell. I bought a small brush top jar and it was under half the price of the brush top jar from the dealer which looked exactly like the Duplicolor jar with a different label. I returned the Ford paint.
  14. Knowing how many $ would be helpful.
  15. Apparently I had smoked crack the day I looked at it and thought the bike's price was 1500, 4000 is still decent if one wants the spendy exhaust. I'm guessing the kickstand is just out of view.