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ironmike

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Everything posted by ironmike

  1. Depending on condition, $1400-1600 used. True collector grade examples, like NOS, or unplayed (other than setups) case-queens run around $2K. The signature models (signature inlaid fretboard) can run $2750 to $3K. Values fluctuate almost daily, but appreciation is the overall trend. Here's a link to today's Reverb site . . . https://reverb.com/marketplace?product_type=electric-guitars&query=Epiphone Joe Bonamassa Black Beauty Les Paul Custom Outfit
  2. Yeah, it was a limited edition (artist's model) to begin with. As it turns out, I'm not that fond of the third (middle) humbucker as it's just below the path of my typical strum pattern. I can't shake the nagging concern that any errant (or overly enthusiastic) picking might eventually contact and compromise that pickup's gold plating. So, it may be that it'll be relegated to semi-retirement "case-queen" status; that'll at least keep it pristine.
  3. ironmike

    Car Battery

    That ought to work just fine. The voltmeter was showing the level of alternator charge going to the battery while you were driving. If you really want to test it (at rest & when running) a load tester would be the tool of choice. But I think for now you're gonna be okay.
  4. ironmike

    Car Battery

    Installed it in the parking lot . . ? I'd recommend taking the time to disconnect and bench charge the new battery (remove it if necessary). The first charging cycle is important because it'll maximize the charge holding capability and its potential usable lifespan. Most stores carry batteries holding little more than a modest surface charge and don't bench charge their batteries, assuming the customer will do so--or worse, don't really care once the sale is made.
  5. Agree that vacuum lines are suspect--especially it they're the original at 20yrs old--find any raw fuel in one and your FPR merits replacement as well. Fortunately, these are relatively easy fixes.
  6. Carlos makes a valid point--there are a lot of variables, and you never know. However, nothing ventured--nothing gained. IMHO, if you advertised at a bit more that $7K in the venues mentioned you might realize close to $6.5-7K. I'd still recommend staying at $5.6K for site members--you never know.
  7. Very nice . . . May we assume the $5600 price is only for this site & its members? In today's secondary retail market you might be undervaluing it by 15-20%. Should you make it available elsewhere, I'd recommend reconsidering your asking price. Whatever you decide, best of luck with the sale!
  8. Ah, mystery solved . . . Taylor does not enjoy the lure/demand of the Martin brand; so, used values tend to be much lower. Condition matters, of course, but actual sales are modest and prices are typically commensurate. I wish her luck with the sale. https://www.usedprice.com/items/guitars-musical-instruments/taylor-guitars/?q=412&x=32&y=14 https://blog.taylorguitars.com/what-is-the-value-of-my-guitar https://bluebookofguitarvalues.com/#/FreeSearch/AcousticGuitar https://reverb.com/price-guide?query=Taylor+412 (keep in mind these are asking prices . . . and Reverb has considerable seller's fees)
  9. Yeah, you can post 'em here. I'm not always online, but I'll see them when I can.
  10. That model number is a concern; there should be a letter or more (D, HD, O, OO, OOO, etc.) followed by a number (typically two digits: D-18, D-28, D-45, etc.). If it's a 12-string model it would be followed by a -12 (HD-28-12). Here are some reference sites you may find useful . . . http://www.guitarhq.com/martin.html https://www.martinguitar.com/customer-service-2/support-serial-number-lookup.html http://onemanz.com/guitar/reviews/acoustic-guitars/martin/model-designation/
  11. Charles Berthoud is fairly well-known among bassists, really pretty awesome (kind of the poster-boy for 20,000+hours of practice). As an amateur bass player, I can tell you that all that slappin' & tappin' isn't as easy as he makes it look. Tell me about the GF's Martin, vintage or recent?
  12. Yeah, no problem. Sorry for not responding sooner. I've been dealing with some persistent pressure to participate in marketing publicity (public appearances. book signings, etc.) since one of my novels was just released as a hardback. Hopefully it's moot as the lawyers assure me I'm on sound ground to decline. I really don't like that marketing crap.
  13. Both guitars are essentially NIB/Mint (case queens) and have all the original case candy. The Ultra Luxe Strat has the rosewood fretboard option, but it does not have the Floyd Rose option (rather the 2-point standard Strat trem). Pm or email me for more details.
  14. I'll get some pics up later today. Sorry for the delay; unrelated book stuff came up that I have to deal with first.
  15. From what I'm seeing, I think you're right--the scarcity of supply (especially the higher-end, potentially collectible stuff) is getting serious. I've been surprised at the escalating offers I've been getting for the models I'm more or less determined to keep. I've got some others on my acquisition radar, so circumstances dictate that I will likely part with some, llke that Strat and the LP. It's somewhat worrying to see such an inflationary spiral in the market, since it'll cost me more in turn.
  16. I'm cutting down on the collection (running out of room, etc. and a dealer is very interested in acquiring some recent purchases I made). A Fender Ultra Luxe Strat and an Epi Joe Bonamassa Black Beauty are among those under consideration. If any member is interested, PM me or email at ironmikezero at g mail dot com, for details . . . Y'all stay & sane! Update: I wasn't successful in acquiring the vintage instruments I had bid on. Consequently, I had to turn down the offers on the Strat & Joe B. BB LP (decided to keep them). Thanks to those folks who expressed interest.
  17. Sounds like a simulated flagpole experiment worth trying--nothing to really lose. If I understand your premise, you're right pulleys may not be needed. Instead, you could try larger eyelet screws (simply fixed to the high points) and run the cable length through them (very loose fit); a small loop or clamp in the run could serve as a height-indicator stop.
  18. Hmm, I'd suspect valve/piston contact . . . pulling the head will typically show any such evidence.
  19. It's an old trick to prevent cross-threading. Gently rotating the socket counterclockwise while aligned vertically will let you feel when the plug's leading thread drops a tiny bit into alignment with the head's first thread gap. It's subtle, and requires a deft touch, but it does work.
  20. It may all be related to tax revenue. There's a push to compel online vendors to collect and report sales taxes/duties. At this time the prime movers are certain states in need of tax revenue believed to be under-reported (mostly by taxpayers, hence the individual identifiers; SSN, ITIN) and thus potentially subject to civil enforcement actions. However, there is also a persistent lobbying effort underway at the congressional level to promote the passage of legislation that would include a comprehensive internet taxation plan.
  21. Hmm, I'd think this through . . . How hot does the attic get? Will that temp have any effect on the router? Oops, just saw the laundry room option--that'd get my recommendation.
  22. ironmike

    Oil leak?

    Here's an old trick to hunt down hidden leaks & seepage when nothing else has worked. It works best with the bike on its centerstand or otherwise held/propped upright. Thoroughly clean the suspected area (think Gunk, steam, etc.) and let dry completely (warm-air hair dryer can speed the process). Once dry, sprinkle or blow some very fine talcum powder (baby powder, etc. - do not use flour) over the suspected area. What you want is a fine white powder that adheres to the dry surface and will readily show any oil leakage. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temps. (Now you know why you don't use flour - you're not baking.) While idling normally, check the powdered region for oil leaks/seepage (light source & small mirror may help). If no leaks/seepage are evident at an idle, rev the engine a few times into its mid-range (increasing oil pressure), and check the powdered region again. Still nothing? Okay, shut the engine down, and let it cool completely (a few hours if necessary). Once cool, check the powdered region again. If a gasket or seal is marginally compromised, a corresponding leak/seepage sometimes won't show up until the engine has been heat-cycled and allowed to cool. If no leak or seepage is detected in the areas you suspected, reassess other potential areas and repeat the test. Keep in mind that not all fluid leaks are oil. Scrutinize the other potential sources (hydraulic fluid, coolant, etc.), especially when errant fluids are detected in unexpected spot after a ride - a moving air stream will always complicate the issue. Be patient and logical. Best of luck.
  23. Almost all trickle chargers have a programmed voltage threshold below which they won't initiate a charging cycle (check to original paperwork). Most have no way of alerting you to a below threshold voltage - per the LED(s) they appear to be working normally but they're not actually charging. I have an old Sears 12v 10/2amp charger w/voltmeter from the early '70s that I'll employ at the 2amp setting whenever I suspect a trickle charger isn't really performing. That works just fine for motorcycle batteries. After a full bench charge, the trickle charger is re-applied. After installation I retest voltage at rest and under load. I have an earlier version (BA-7)of this load tester . . . https://cloreautomotive.com/product/ba9/
  24. We are plagued with power outages, especially with our typically turbulent Spring weather. I've used a host of UPS (APC, Blackout Busters, etc. - all battery types) in the 500-750W range over the years, replacing the batteries about every 3-4 years. All are still in service, but no longer on what we consider critical applications. About five years ago I moved up to a pair of 900W units (CyberPower CP1500 AVRLCD) for my computer systems, and my security/NVR system on one, and my entertainment systems (TV, DVR, Roku, etc.) on the other. Those UPS units and their batteries are still running strong; I'm more than satisfied. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=PRD3GAHPE4M1&dchild=1&keywords=cyberpower+1500va&qid=1618162742&s=electronics&sprefix=cyber%2Celectronics%2C228&sr=1-3
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