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Perforated stove pipe?


Zero Knievel

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I fabricated the following to protect one of the drainage inlets under the driveway by buying a 2 foot section of black stovepipe and drilling holes in it.  I’m looking for the same material (strength wise) but pre-perforated.  I’ve had no luck finding it, and Google searches don’t come close to what I’m looking for.  The material has to be stronger than chicken wire or other mesh products, which is why I went with the stove pipe.

 

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44 minutes ago, Biometrix said:

So why not just use perforated drain pipe?

 

What I see in the stores isn't large enough in diameter...plus I'd have to cut it length-wise.  Plastic won't easily hold to a new shape, but if there's a supplier with more options, I'd like to see it.

 

34 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

Or expanded metal, perforated tubing, perforated metal sheet, hardware cloth...

 

Everything I see when I look for this stuff looks very flimsy.  It has to be able to withstand a torrent of water carrying silt and rock in a heavy drainage event.

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52 minutes ago, Zero Knievel said:

 

Everything I see when I look for this stuff looks very flimsy.  It has to be able to withstand a torrent of water carrying silt and rock in a heavy drainage event.

You need different eyes.  They're all stronger than chicken wire, and they're all better options than the drilled pipe you installed.  They'll all flow a fuck ton better than what you installed so they'll have a fuck ton less stress to deal with.  Hardware cloth is the weakest of the things I mentioned, if there will be rocks flowing rapidly with the water it might not hold up, but will likely do better than the drilled piece of metal you installed due to it's ability to let the water through.  Expanded metal is probably your best option; it's cheap, strong, easy to find, easy to cut, and soft enough to shape easily.  There are lots of options on hole size so you can choose the rock size you're willing to let through.  Perforated sheet ranges from being about as flimsy as what you installed all the way to shit you couldn't bend or cut without machinery.

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What Oscar says.  I have no idea what you're seeing, but both solid and corrugated (flexible) perforated drain pipe are solid as hell.  Designed to be buried, stronger than normal PVC pipe.  Depot for sure has 6" and may have 8".  You can order it or find it at specialty stores in larger sizes.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Advanced-Drainage-Systems-6-in-x-20-ft-Corrugated-Pipes-Drain-Pipe-Perforated-06010020/203298667

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Advanced-Drainage-Systems-4-in-x-10-ft-2-Hole-Triplewall-Pipe-4520010/100191022

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2 hours ago, SwampNut said:

What Oscar says.  I have no idea what you're seeing, but both solid and corrugated (flexible) perforated drain pipe are solid as hell.  Designed to be buried, stronger than normal PVC pipe.  Depot for sure has 6" and may have 8".  You can order it or find it at specialty stores in larger sizes.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Advanced-Drainage-Systems-6-in-x-20-ft-Corrugated-Pipes-Drain-Pipe-Perforated-06010020/203298667

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Advanced-Drainage-Systems-4-in-x-10-ft-2-Hole-Triplewall-Pipe-4520010/100191022


The inlets are on the scale of 16 to 18 inches.  That stuff just won’t do.  I’ll look into the other items you guys listed.

 

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2 hours ago, SwampNut said:

You can order it or find it at specialty stores in larger sizes.

 

Not sure why that was unclear.

 

You can buy PVC tube and drill any size/number of holes.  You shouldn't use metal.

 

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  • 1 year later...

Well, I found a metal fabricator in town and had him make three of these…I painted them when I got home.  Under $80 for all three.  I’ve installed on the two main culvert inlets.  The stove pipe one will take more digging out to install.

 

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Installing, I repurposed some of the old stuff and used chicken wire to prevent stuff falling in from behind.

 

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Edited by Zero Knievel
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  • 2 weeks later...

You should remove the sheet with the small holes and leave just the expanded metal.  Those little holes will easily clog up with leaves, the larger holes have a decent chance of letting them through or at least letting them bend into the holes so that it stays flowing.

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I thought of that.  I’ll see how they perform.  Silt flows down and has to be dug out anyhow, and removing it means more gets through.  It’s the difference between cleaning out what’s washed in and having to pull the whole grate out to relevel the ground.  As it stands, I still have to check after heavy rains for blockage from leaves washed down.  At the very least, these suckers are a lot more sturdy than what I rigged up on my own.

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