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Oil change question...


Animal Mother

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Ok guys, got an o1 with 1150 miles on it. I had the initial service about 7 months ago, since then I have put a bit over 500 miles on it. Since I am one of the few that is not to terribly farmiliar with my bike and cant ride to often, what is your guys's advice on oil change schedules? Should I change it about every 3 or 6 months regardless?? Thanks for any advice you have.

Steve

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You've a valid point, miller....that he is still at almost a break-in mileage. So here we go again.

Normally, the only physical contaminants that we expect in oil are microscopic pieces of clutch. After all, your clutch plates do wear out, just like dry clutches and brakes...but a wet clutch has nowhere to put that debris but in the oil. The real problem are the other contaminants which are chemical...specifically, chemicals from incomplete combustion. Every engine has incomplete combustion...and it's more incomplete when an engine is cold. Those contaminents get into the oil past the rings/pistons...there is always a little leakage in that system, especially when an engine is cold. It would follow, then, that an engine which is started infrequently and ridden sparingly, seldom having the opportunity to reach operating temperature for long periods of time, would have a maximal opportunity for chemical contamination of oil. I imagine that there may be some "burnoff" from the oil once a steady state oil temperature is achieved, but how much is purely conjecture. (As an example of how this works, pioneer aviators would pour gasoline into their oilpans to thin the oil in order that they could start the massive radial engines. Once started, they were not shut off for several hours, and the gasoline would "burn off" in vapors from the heated oil and exhaust to atmosphere through the breather. Clearances in those days were of course, nowhere as delicate as they are now, and a radial engine has an impressive bearing surface. The loads generated against the crankpin are more forgiving, being at a much more acute angle than a "normal" engine.)

So...once an oil is contaminated....need it be discarded? Hell, no, or we would be changing our oil daily...depending upon your definition of contaminated. Oil has among it's duties not only to hold matching areas of like shape and swept area (bearings) apart---that's lubrication, folks---but also to keep chemical contaminants in suspension(well...sort of. Actually, there is weak chemical bonding between the long chain molecules of oil, and the hydrocarbon, polycarbon, water, and acidic contaminates). Physical contaminants *should* be filtered except for the most minute. So, as long as the chemical contaminants are kept in "suspension," the oil is doing its job. But like adding salt to water...eventually when you add enough contaminant, the lubricant action of the oil is "broken down" as it's long molecular chains disintegrate under the burden of multiple chemical "bonds" at it's juncture points. You lose lubricity, cooling (another function of oil) and of course, the ability to keep contaminants from the engine. (the acids are corrosive..especially to aluminum) The bonds in the oil break down over repeated heat cycles and/or overheating as well. So...oil gets old from use and loses its ability to protect by "quarantining" contaminants, or absorbs too many contaminants. Either way, you get the same result....eventually, the oil loses it's effectiveness. Herein lies one strength and the myth of "increased lubricity" of synthetic oils. Being manufactured, it's essentially free of impurities that might hasten the breakdown of the bonds that hold those long molecules together-----and therefore it takes more chemical contaminants to weaken the synthetic oil....logically, all other things being equal...you can use it longer, because it continues to lubricate longer.

So where is Steve in this mishmosh? Well, Steve's got a couple extra issues...cuz his motor is essentially new. Now, no brand new piece of 'chinery is absolutely perfect when mass manufactured, so there's bound to be a few itsy-bitsy scraps of metal, fuzz, dandruff, clutch plate, and misc in that motor at first. Wow....what do we do about it? Nothing...except change the filter. That's all physical contaminant....which is what the filter is there for. The very short period before the first advised oil and filter change assures that if there are those things in that new motor....they get collected and discarded quickly.

Now....what could it be that's in that engine that's such a big help in getting those rings to seat just so? Gear shavings? New clutch fibers? Dandruff? Special factory sandpaper pixie dust that's just perfect for grinding valves and seating rings? Nope...they all got sucked up into the filter. Maybe its chemical contaminants...acids that etch the rings? Nope. You guessed it.........NOTHING. Your mechanic, miller, may be a good guy, and a great parts changer, but he's no internal combustion visionary. (Check your autoparts store...do they sell "break-in" oil?)

Steve...the only damage that "overchanging" your oil will do is to strip out your drain plug. It won't hurt the motor, but chances are that it certainly doesn't need it with the frequency you expect...unless indeed you drive such short distances that the motor never warms up. Your motor is fuel infected, and runs pretty clean, even when cold. Today's modern oils, dino or otherwise, are very much up to the task of protecting your engine for a couple thousand miles....and then going into your car!

Reasonable debate is welcome...........

Tomorrow...CHAIN LUBE!

_________________

Joe, are you on speed? :lol::lol::lol:

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I was under the impression that due to the interaction of the contaminates generated by combustion, Oil should really be changed at a regular interval (every 3 months), most notably due to the contaminates acting as more of a catalyst to the aformentioned breakdown. The longer the oil sits in the engine once it has been run, the more acid build up in the oil and the more damage it can do.

So, the answer is to change the oil every 3 months or so. before the contaminates can build up and do damage.

I look at changing the oil as the cheapest thing you can do to keep your bike running. Takes me 20 minutes (following the instructions on the main site, after the prerequisit warm up ride) and costs me about $30 in materials. Cheap at twice the price. OF course, I tend to hit the 3-4000 mile barrier WAY before I hit 3 months.

It seems to me that if you've got an 01 with only 1150 miles on it, the bottom line is that the oil has been changed twice in 2 years. It's time to do an oil change on it.

Just my $.02

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:shock: :shock: :shock: WOW, that was very informative Joe. I think I knocked out about half of my requirements for my chemical engineering classes :lol: :wink: If you dont mind me asking, are you a mechanic, or do you just REALLY like to keep up on these types of things?

In all seriousness though, I really appreciate the information, and will thus not worry about having the oil changed any time "soon"

Thanks,

Steve

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I had to PRINT OUT Joe's reply and take it to the crapper to read ! Then I spanked one out to Joe's picture ! Just a normal day in the Krauthamer home !!!!!!! :wink:
I gotta hand it to you guys since i'm new to being online and all i would have gotten a computer years ago for comedy like this :lol::lol::lol::lol:
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WillXX....you haven't seen anything yet !

We post pictures of group rides.....

Has anyone told you the initiation requirments for being on this board ?

We blind fold you...bend you over...and you then have to take it in the ass by all 432 members !!!! And we all will crack a nut !

We will call it the WILL 500 !

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Dave, you are fucked up my friend. Were you dropped as a child? OMG. I have to stop eating and drinking when reading your posts. :lol:

Ken

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