ChasRummel Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 First of all THANK YOU to EVERYONE THAT PITCHED IN TO HELP!!!!!!!! This is by far the coolest group of ANY kind I have ever joined. I was BLOWN AWAY by how many of you took the time to help me especially being the FNG (f.....ng new guy) around here. I did have to break down and take the bike to a shop BUT at least I (with everyones help) was able to weigh the options. If we were going into winter a bit sooner I would have done the chain myself. I dont have a rivet press (or time). I DID at least know what I was talking about thanks again and asked to have a front sprocket installed. It looks like it will be $110 for the chain $45 for a steel front sprocket and $90 hr labor (they said less than an hour. If you are still reading in bad news my clutch seems to only start to grab on the last inch when I release it. I will look this up before asking anyone but I fear there is little I can do to adjust it. The head race bearing will have to wait and on the bright side they have paved most the roads just recently around here after the awful winter damage that probably was what killed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul99xx Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 clutch may just need a bleed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 clutch may just need a bleed That would make it grab early, not late in the release. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 If the clutch doesn't slip at full power there may be nothing wrong. If it does then just don't force it with full power 'till you're in the position to replace it. The only adjustment is the handle position. If it were not releasing or grabbing too early then a bleed may be in order. There is a possibility of the piston in the master not fully retracting and keeping pressure in the line, especially with some aftermarket handles, or maybe something even more rare causing it. To check the master function, remove the reservoir cap, make sure the bike and bars are in a position where fluid won't dump out and remove the cap with care to not dribble fluid that will be hanging from it onto the bike. With the cap off squeeze the handle and right at the beginning of the squeeze you should see a small spurt of fluid in the reservoir. Be careful that this spurt doesn't squirt out the reservoir onto the bike as brake fluid will eat paint, some plastics, and rubber not specifically designed for brake fluid. I like to bundle rags tightly around the reservoir and cover everything in the area to avoid spillage onto anything that can be harmed. If fluid gets on anything immediately wash it well, have a hose, soap, and wash towel ready just in case. And yes, this is a very unique forum in my experiences and the best. Like most things it starts at the top and dribbles down. I've not heard of anyone needed to be kicked off, tho it may happen, I think it's somewhat self-regulating. Trolls would probably get bored and since we don't have them most people's potentially inflammatory remarks are fairly well received. There is also a high amount of trust given amongst many members. Last time I bought something from a member he sent it before I made the payment. He wasn't sure what the shipping would cost but gave me an estimate before I committed. Once shipped he told me it was in the mail and here's the total, less than estimated. It's a special place with great people, can't say enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Two things with the clutch, actually three.... 1. You can't adjust a hydraulic clutch. If it's working right, it should work all the time. 2. Flush the system with new brake fluid. Best way to eliminate problems such as air bubbles and water contamination. 3. The XX has "adjusters" on both brake and clutch levers. I find if they aren't out all the way, you have to get them all the way to the handle to make them work. I don't like that, personally. So, adjust the lever all the way out and see if that solves your problem...or at least helps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 I've not heard of anyone needed to be kicked off, tho it may happen, I think it's somewhat self-regulating. That may be the understatement of the year. I was wondering if a very gunked up clutch pushrod could cause the problem? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 I've not heard of anyone needed to be kicked off, tho it may happen, I think it's somewhat self-regulating. That may be the understatement of the year. I was wondering if a very gunked up clutch pushrod could cause the problem? It's possible, but I'd think highly unlikely. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Yank off side cover, pull rod, clean everything up, don't use anything like a wire brush or anything. Brake clean and wipe down with shop towel. Whatever you do, do not allow anyone to pull the clutch lever in. Wedge a block of wood or something in there, been warned... Put back together. Turn bars to the right, remove two cover screws, remove plastic and rubber cap. Use a suction bulb or whatever and remove most of the fluid. I use fish tank air tubing to slip over bleeder valves. Place in catch bottle and then bleed. Makes things cleaner and less chance of sucking in air. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 clutch may just need a bleed There should be a button for LOVE THIS. clutch may just need a bleed That would make it grab early, not late in the release. The clutches save lives things was a bit on comic relief TY If the clutch doesn't slip at full power there may be nothing wrong. If it does then just don't force it with full power 'till you're in the position to replace it. The only adjustment is the handle position. If it were not releasing or grabbing too early then a bleed may be in order. There is a possibility of the piston in the master not fully retracting and keeping pressure in the line, especially with some aftermarket handles, or maybe something even more rare causing it. To check the master function, remove the reservoir cap, make sure the bike and bars are in a position where fluid won't dump out and remove the cap with care to not dribble fluid that will be hanging from it onto the bike. With the cap off squeeze the handle and right at the beginning of the squeeze you should see a small spurt of fluid in the reservoir. Be careful that this spurt doesn't squirt out the reservoir onto the bike as brake fluid will eat paint, some plastics, and rubber not specifically designed for brake fluid. I like to bundle rags tightly around the reservoir and cover everything in the area to avoid spillage onto anything that can be harmed. If fluid gets on anything immediately wash it well, have a hose, soap, and wash towel ready just in case. And yes, this is a very unique forum in my experiences and the best. Like most things it starts at the top and dribbles down. I've not heard of anyone needed to be kicked off, tho it may happen, I think it's somewhat self-regulating. Trolls would probably get bored and since we don't have them most people's potentially inflammatory remarks are fairly well received. There is also a high amount of trust given amongst many members. Last time I bought something from a member he sent it before I made the payment. He wasn't sure what the shipping would cost but gave me an estimate before I committed. Once shipped he told me it was in the mail and here's the total, less than estimated. It's a special place with great people, can't say enough. looking for the love this button again TY Two things with the clutch, actually three.... 1. You can't adjust a hydraulic clutch. If it's working right, it should work all the time. 2. Flush the system with new brake fluid. Best way to eliminate problems such as air bubbles and water contamination. 3. The XX has "adjusters" on both brake and clutch levers. I find if they aren't out all the way, you have to get them all the way to the handle to make them work. I don't like that, personally. So, adjust the lever all the way out and see if that solves your problem...or at least helps. I will try this after the bikereturns from chain sprocket job. At that point I will also have ifno as to what the repair shop said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I haven't ridden the BB for a while before today and while my clutch always felt normal, after only riding the Duc for a bit I noticed that the BB doesn't engage 'till close to fully out so I think you're ok...or we both have bad clutches, but mine works fine and hasn't changed any that I can tell. As for the loud clutches thing, that's been on there for a bit and it's because of my Ducati which has a loud ass clutch. Not so much when cruising, but sitting idling with the clutch out you'd think the motor was about to grenade, like both connecting rod bearings had taken a shit. Clutch in and it's more of a rattly sizzling sound. With the stock clutch cover it's barely noticeable, mine is completely open. The clunking is part of it's sex appeal, and kinda shitty at the same time. I guess it's like many things on that bike that I hate to love. Bottom center with the 6 gold things is the clutch, the original cover is sealed to contain the noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianmacza Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 My XX is a '97 with 220,000km and is still on original clutch - these things are STRONG. Bleed and enjoy. I haven't ridden the BB for a while before today and while my clutch always felt normal, after only riding the Duc for a bit I noticed that the BB doesn't engage 'till close to fully out so I think you're ok...or we both have bad clutches, but mine works fine and hasn't changed any that I can tell. As for the loud clutches thing, that's been on there for a bit and it's because of my Ducati which has a loud ass clutch. Not so much when cruising, but sitting idling with the clutch out you'd think the motor was about to grenade, like both connecting rod bearings had taken a shit. Clutch in and it's more of a rattly sizzling sound. With the stock clutch cover it's barely noticeable, mine is completely open. The clunking is part of it's sex appeal, and kinda shitty at the same time. I guess it's like many things on that bike that I hate to love. IMG_0062.jpg Bottom center with the 6 gold things is the clutch, the original cover is sealed to contain the noise. Your Ducati has a dry clutch. The XX has a wet clutch. Biiiiiiiig difference. On the noise, the clutch basket wears over time and can be clattery on an XX that has been used long or hard. Its normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 a ducati dry clutch is orgasmic sounding... i love it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) I think it was Anna who said that a Ducati clutch sounded like two skeletons fornicating in a rubush bin😃 Chas, Your shop has to pull the clutch slave cylinder to get to the front sprocket. A good shop would have cleaned the clutch rod while there. I remove my wind screen when changing brake and clutch fluids . It makes it easier to get to everything. And a tool suggestion. Find a JiS Japan Industry standard ( I think) Philips screwdriver. Mine were made by Vessel, ordered online. Two Philips , two straight, about $18.00 a few years back. The correct screwdriver will really help remove tight screws without stripping. Edited September 8, 2015 by redxxrdr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Working on a motorcycle without a decent set of tools = BAD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) I think it was Anna who said that a Ducati clutch sounded like two skeletons fornicating in a rubush bin Chas, Your shop has to pull the clutch slave cylinder to get to the front sprocket. A good shop would have cleaned the clutch rod while there. I remove my wind screen when changing brake and clutch fluids . It makes it easier to get to everything. And a tool suggestion. Find a JiS Japan Industry standard ( I think) Philips screwdriver. Mine were made by Vessel, ordered online. Two Philips , two straight, about $18.00 a few years back. The correct screwdriver will really help remove tight screws without stripping. Right now it sounds like my brain cells bouncing around wondering how the fuck I've been wrenching so long without knowing about JIS screws. I've beat my self up wondering why a screwdriver doesn't fit right a bunch of times and have even ground the tips of drivers down to get a better fit which helps some. As soon as I googled it I realized that I never questioned the identifying dot on Jap screws nor made the connection between the dot and slipping screwdrivers. The dot tells you it's a JIS screw and not a phillips. I'll be shopping this morning! Edited September 8, 2015 by superhawk996 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/ball-grip/225/set/flypage_sku.tpl.html Here is a link to a Vessel site. The set of four " mr. Microphone" screw drivers have gone up some. I use them daily, and hard. Much of the AMERICAN stuff from China that I work on likes the JIS tools. Another benefit of this forum is that I learn new things every day. And you should see the tools used on old VW in THE SAMBA site. There are some crazy tools to torque gland nuts and axel nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecome Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 my gland nuts need some work!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 I will just take some nut work hold the glands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 I think it was Anna who said that a Ducati clutch sounded like two skeletons fornicating in a rubush bin Chas, Your shop has to pull the clutch slave cylinder to get to the front sprocket. A good shop would have cleaned the clutch rod while there. I remove my wind screen when changing brake and clutch fluids . It makes it easier to get to everything. And a tool suggestion. Find a JiS Japan Industry standard ( I think) Philips screwdriver. Mine were made by Vessel, ordered online. Two Philips , two straight, about $18.00 a few years back. The correct screwdriver will really help remove tight screws without stripping. Right now it sounds like my brain cells bouncing around wondering how the fuck I've been wrenching so long without knowing about JIS screws. I've beat my self up wondering why a screwdriver doesn't fit right a bunch of times and have even ground the tips of drivers down to get a better fit which helps some. As soon as I googled it I realized that I never questioned the identifying dot on Jap screws nor made the connection between the dot and slipping screwdrivers. The dot tells you it's a JIS screw and not a phillips. I'll be shopping this morning! +1, how the hell did I never come across this tidbit before? Thanks for the tip, no pun intended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 I knew that the Phillips was different but is the straight ones really different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Your clutch is normal. The stock adjustment is inadequate IMHO. Get some Pazzo levers, if you want more adjustment. Also, if you remove the slave cylinder from the sprocket cover, have a big spring clamp or similar handy to put on the slave cylinder, or the piston will slowly work it's way out. If that happens, sucks to be you. Thought I would never get the f**ck'n master to re-prime. Better to just remove the whole sprocket cover. Then you can clean every thing under there. Anyway, welcome to the nut farm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.