silverbird1100 Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 I'd imagine wrapping the headers makes a difference, but has anyone figured out how and where to add heat shielding if that's possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 ride faster heat wrapping is ok, works to a point, make sure you got all stainless or ti pipes or moisture will can rust out pipes jet hot coat them gives them a nice finish and helps with heat. Do your header and mids for about $200 or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 The old exhaust trick of drilling out the core plugs in the stock mufflers reduces heat in the exhaust system by a considerable margin since it spends less actual time within the system. It seems most noticable in the surface temps of the cans themselves. Of course, this trick pretty much permanently alters the stock cans, and lends the exhaust tone a more robust quality that's not that noticable except under hard acceleration. I'm in the Deep South and that cheap little mod made a big difference in the radient heat felt by both rider and pillion... (I don't mind the deeper exhaust note at all). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoyXX Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Deeper exhaust tone and less heat for cheap.hmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewtoy Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Here's a youtube showing how it's done, as well as several different stages/sounds in the drilling process Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 Another little tip: Drilling out the central core of the cans without drilling out the "decoration" holes eliminates that bit of "tinny" resonance that many don't care for. If you know for sure you're going to open the central core, do that first and see how you like that sound. Test ride to assess the difference in system heat retention - and the subtle new growl under acceleration. You can always drill out the "decoration" holes later, should you so choose (although I think you'll find little difference in the heat retention factor). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 I really disliked the buzzy sound of the decoration holes drilled, but opening the center sounded nice. Is the perforated outlet tube attached other than at the outlet? If they're not then a bigger hole saw would allow removing the tube and it may sound even better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 It's been a while since I saw a sectioned can, but I seem to remember the perforated outlet tube is fixed at both ends. Hot exhaust gases must pass through the preforations to exit. Drilling throught the core plugs (there may be 2, if I remember correctly) eliminates that bottleneck and dramatically increases the spent exhaust flow rate. If memory serves, the biggest diameter hole saw I ever saw so employed was either one inch or a hair under - I've used 7/8" without issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 I looked in with a flashlight and it does appear to have welds further in. I think part of the exhaust comes through the perforations and part through the gap between the perfed tube and the wall forward of it that gets drilled out. Now I want a can to experiment with. I like the rumble of an uncorked XX, but I also like being stealthy, a selectable by-pass is the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 A guy in Europe did an "XX Can Autopsy" and posted pics some yeas ago. I found the site that hosted his pics (http://www.ixxra.com/pics.html) but the link to his data (scroll down) no longer works (404). Unfortunately, that was all I could find. If you do acquire a can for a postmortem, please post your pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 A guy in Europe did an "XX Can Autopsy" and posted pics some yeas ago. I found the site that hosted his pics (http://www.ixxra.com/pics.html) but the link to his data (scroll down) no longer works (404). Unfortunately, that was all I could find. If you do acquire a can for a postmortem, please post your pics. wow that brings back fond memories! IXXRA (International XX Riders Association) became B.I.R.D (Blackbird International Riders Domain) That is who hosts the BlackBird Bash every year in Thetford, England and now run by Jaws (John). Anthony still owns the IXXRA domain name but no longer has anything to do with the BlackBird community that I know of. Jaws may have some data that you are looking for - his email is straightfour@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 This pic shows a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX123 Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 I drilled mine last year, just the center part out, I primarily wanted to free up the exhaust, make it sound louder and eliminate some of the wicked heat those cans put off. After seeing the pictures of the can, it became apparent why they ran so hot. they would remain hot for quite some time after I shut the bike off. passengers feet were uncomfortable from the heat. I drilled through both of the plates, well the plate and the screen. the cans were a lot cooler to the touch afterward. It got a little louder, but barely. The bike is still quieter than most stock bikes of its size. its a great little mod, I would do it again in a heart beat if I had another bird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbird1100 Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 So no one has tried any heat shielding or rerouting the hot air? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 I would do the exhaust wrap or ceramic coating. Any shielding or re-routing will likely compromise engine cooling or at the least, be unsightly. I never thought the Bird was all that hot unless in stop-and-go traffic, but any bike will be hot in those conditions. Ride an old ZX-11 for a while, and you'll really have something to complain about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Ride an old ZX-11 for a while, and you'll really have something to complain about. Or a Ducati 999 at almost any speed in warm weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Did you put those coated headers on the Bird yet Superhawk? They might run a little cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 No I haven't. I was gonna put them on my '97, glad I didn't since I got the '01 shortly afterwards. I want to take some temp readings to have some before/after numbers and I just haven't gotten round to it. I think the coated ones don't have an O2 bung so I'm debating whether to install one or let it be my motivation to delete the sensor and install the fuel controller Carlos gave me. Now it's time to rush off to work for more pre-header swap testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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