RoyXX

I ran across this on cl if anyone is interested http://worcester.craigslist.org/mcy/4608321651.html

Thank You Joe...this site rocks

1997 service manual..mostly need it for chaseing electrical probs away from home

Help...I had previously downloaded the xx service manual to my phones Microsoft office app....my phone melted down and now I am searching forum to find it again....and yes I tryed the useful tidbits section and the link says 'page not available' I know the bbs are reliable but I still feel better with tools in the givi and a pdf in my pocket when I'm 300 miles from home.

for $ 330 and use stock valving it sounds like a plan for now. i assume that you can still set front spring sag by shimming the springs.i dont like being a cheapass,but the total purchase, mods,new pirelli angel gts,and prog springs total $5000. I could have bought a dif kind of touring bike allready set up for my needs cheaper but I wanted a 97 BB. I owned a new one in 97 and rode it 2 seasons and sold it.nothing I have owned or ridden has compared since. ill prob upgrade the front fork and rear shock to a prof set up after market down the road.

Ill check out the hyperpro progressive for the front too i guess.I cant stand that mushy front fork

Crud...recommended rear spring is 19 stock is 16.8...not available above 16.1. Do the progressive springs work well on the xx?? I'm thinking maybe racetech 1.2 on front and progressive on rear,springs only,stock dampening.I don't do race days and have 160 lb wife on the back quite a bit.

Thanks guys.1.2 and check out new rear spring.its already shimed 6mm

Deeper exhaust tone and less heat for cheap.hmmm

I'm going to order race tech springs for my 97xx.I need suggestions for spring rate to buy.I am not changing the fork dampening or rear spring/ shock at this time,rear has 6mm shim.I weigh 230 lbs.

Tryed it without mufflers.To freekin loud with no baffles..dammm..I want it to growl not make my wife's ears bleed

I'm gonna try this on My '97 and if I like it jet to accommodate...woohooo

I'll def have to sync the carbs..it does idle a little rough at 1200 rpm warm..I'm waiting a couple weeks for warmer weather and striping lower fairings to scrub the motor and frame area that you can't see

It's real nice...I paid $3600 for my 97 with 27k on it last month and by the look of the pics you posted yours is cosmetically in better shape and has all the goodys and susp work done already...hang in and you will find her buyer

Damm nice bike.make a great daily rider.by the time my victory sells it will be gone for sure.

problem solved...pull the clutch in dumbass...smh...I outta know better

I neglected to check..it might just be the trans gears thrashing back and forth.Ill check when it stops raining.bikes are shamefully stored outside covered after april 1

My 97 has a noise at cold start up untill motor reaches about 1000 rpm and smoothes out .It doesnt do it when started warm.It sounds like the cct is loose or something of that nature.It does it with enricher on also.I have to tickle the throttle to get rpms up for about 20-30 seconds then noise goes away after motor smoothes out.I can get it to start without noise by giving it a little throttle(shivers)I hate cold start quick revs. Is this normal for a carb bird or should I be conserned.I was thinking of changing cct but no noise is present at any rpm after start up. possibly carb adj or maybe the vacume shutoff for fuel leaking??Your thoughts and help will be greatly appreciated.I dont want to fck up My bb by ignoring this if it is not a normal noise.

I looked at PDF of the stock set up the top that sticks out of the clamps must be cosmetic.I'm going to set the front end up stock when I convert to LSL kit and shim the rear.thanks for the help guys

thank you,39mm is about an inch so the front forks were only lowered about 6mm.I appreciate the help guys,I know very little about sport bikes and dont want to mess up the handleing of the bike when I change the clamps and bars.All my experience is with hd,old triumphs and such.I love the xx and am trying to make it more comfortable for long rides.I also have to do something with the mushy front springs.I weigh 220 lbs where does the rear shim go?if I can make it handle better im game...I do love the twisties

so stock the handlebar clamps are right down on the top triple tree with about 1/4 inch of tube sticking up past risers + clips...so to install 1inch riser blocks he lowered the front end 1 inch.thanks,Im removing them when I install the new bars

I need some info on stock triple tree setup.My bike came with 1 inch riser blocks under the clamp on bars.I am installing clamp on conversion risers to convensional bars.I would like to know if when prev owner installed the riser blocks he had to unclamp triple trees and slide the fork tubes up to make room for them in between top tree and clamp on bars.I will leave them in for added lift if they dont change geometry of stock rake/trail

please check your messages, ty ,Roy