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Mounting the Datel Volt Meter


ActionStarCBRxx

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I just bought the Datel volt meter. I plan on installing it in the next few days. I would like some opinions on where to put it? Need to balance looks (prefer no loose wires) and easily viewable (the volt reading)... along with easily removable if I need to pull plastic off.

You all have had the meters for quite a while, so I thought you might have a good idea on what works and what doesnt?

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I have no picture available, but I chose to mount it in the right cover panel (aft of the throttle grip). The biggest problem is that there is very little space for it there, and you get one chance to cut the panel right. Mine wound up being something like 1/8" too far up and it kept hitting the air intake duct. I had to cut a big chunk of it out so the panel would go back into place (I sealed the hole with aluminum tape...no performance issues).

I can't see a lot of places to effectively mount the Datel....a problem most sport bikes have.

I'm going to rewire the voltmeter to a switchable junction block. I use connectors so that I can remove the panel with the Datel in it without taking the whole harness off.

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There is a real cool write up on the Datel site on how to mount it in your MIRROR. Very slick, but it requires a competence level I am unfamiliar with. But it is way cool.

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Neat,

Did anyone notice who did this?

Wonder if he ever modified a bird?

Well, it sure as hell wasn't ME. I printed it out and got my mirror off and something different about our mirrors made it much more complicated (that is, much less straightforward) than this procedure. If anyone is up to it, let me know and I will send you a mirror and my voltmeter and you can practice on it. I doubt you could fuck it up worse than I would.

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...something different about our mirrors made it much more complicated (that is, much less straightforward) than this procedure.

It's been awhile since I've been inside an XX mirror, but IIRC, the mirror itself is mounted to a plastic piece that allows for the angle adjustment. You'll first need to remove the glass from this piece (which I would assume would be done similarly to how he removed his, by heating in the oven, then prying). I have no idea if it would be that simple, though. It would be interesting to try.

If I were going to go through all of that trouble, I'd go so far as to remove the reflective portion of glass to only expose the lighted portions of the Datel, instead of having a huge rectangle cut out. Sort of a pain in the ass, I know, but very possible (I'd have to look closer at a Datel) and worth the extra effort in my opinion.

I may tinker with this over the winter.

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just looking at the size of the datel I can't see it fitting in the mirror with the indicators in there already, unless they have a unit with the display remote mounted or one of you lot can do that...

is this a copyright breach? I see Warchild has Copyrighted that page....... :icon_rolleyes:

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is this a copyright breach? I see Warchild has Copyrighted that page....... :icon_rolleyes:

It's only copyright infringement if you cut and paste instead of linking.

Like this.... :icon_twisted:

So I have taken so much from this forum over the last year that its time to give something back. I originally saw this idea on the VFR forum when I was searching for voltmeters. I was so impressed I had to give it a try so this weekend I modified my right side mirror to house the very slick Datel Voltmeter. Here are some details and piccies.
MountedOff.jpg
The Finished Product:
NoFlash.jpg
FlashFinal.jpg
Here's how I did it: Step 1: Remove mirror and put in oven at 220 F for 30 minutes. This is to soften the housing to allow you to pop out the mirror. Remove from oven and using a paint scraper, carefully pop out mirror. The housing is quite soft and you should not have to force the mirror to pop it out.
MirrorPoppedOut.jpg
Step 2: Select where you want to mount the voltmeter and trace a template on the paper attached on the back of the mirror.
DatelTemplateonMirror.jpg
Step 3: The most tedious/time consuming part of this job is removing the backing from the mirror. The stock mirror has four layers starting with glass, silver finish, backing paint, and paper. Once I had outlined where I wanted to mount the voltmeter, I taped some razor blades along the edge of the outline (to form a secure straight edge for the Dremel) using Aluminum tape. I used aluminum tape because 1) it sticks very well and 2) the dremel won't grind it away like other tapes would.
PrepforDremel.jpg
Step 4: Okay, now dremel away. I used the dremel polishing kit (available from Home Depot for about $10). I started first with the steel wire brush included in the kit to scrub off the paper down to the green backing paint. Use light pressure on the lowest speed. Then I used the felt polishing pads with the included polishing compund to scrub off the rest of the backing paint and silver finish. Be patient and take your time and you will have excellent results. Now you won't be able to get all the way into the corners and edges, but a razor blade by hand takes care of the fine finishing. Despite this being tedious I found this was the way to get the best results. I had an old mirror I practiced on first with a number of other methods, including using muriatic acid. The acid worked best but was the most difficult to control and I really didn't want to take the chance of ruining my good mirror.
DremelDone.jpg
Step 5: Once you have the mirror prepped, its time to mount the voltmeter. I used polyurethane glue by Elmer. I tried two mounts - one direct on the glass and the other with the bezel mounted to the glass first. Both worked well but I preferred the look of the bezel mount and went with that. I fashioned a plastic retaining clip to hold the voltmeter and is screwed into the bezel with the supplied screws. Here is the bezel mount:
BezelMount.jpg
Glue.jpg
Step 6: Everything is mounted so its time to wire and reassemble the mirror. I grounded the voltmeter to the stem nut inside the mirror housing and ran the +ve wire down the mirror arm under a strip of elctrical tape and behind the boot. Put the unassembled mirror back in the oven for 10 minutes at 190F and you can press the mirror right back in.
BackinMirro.jpg
Enjoy! Rich
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When SlowRide and Brett helped me install HIDs, we had a lot of the tupperware off - so Steph suggested we run the wires up and mount the Datel between the top of the dashboard and the tinted windscreen. It's nice there because it's always shaded - so it can be easily read in open sunlight. Steph recommended (as well as supplied) velcro ands it's held nicely for 1+ year.

Thanks again Steph!

Can post photos later in the week. You get the idea

Mike

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When SlowRide and Brett helped me install HIDs, we had a lot of the tupperware off - so Steph suggested we run the wires up and mount the Datel between the top of the dashboard and the tinted windscreen. It's nice there because it's always shaded - so it can be easily read in open sunlight. Steph recommended (as well as supplied) velcro ands it's held nicely for 1+ year.

Especially if you can rig a nice little cover so it blends with the dash.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Found the mounting spot... how do I hook it up? I am running the ground to the front metal frame supports to the nose fairing. (right by where the horn mounts)

But on the positive terminal... I am not sure where to go. If I go straight to the battery, then the meter will always be on? That will be a continous pull on the battery.

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Found the mounting spot... how do I hook it up? I am running the ground to the front metal frame supports to the nose fairing. (right by where the horn mounts)

But on the positive terminal... I am not sure where to go. If I go straight to the battery, then the meter will always be on? That will be a continous pull on the battery.

You can go to the low beam headlight, instrumentation, turn signal, anything of the sort that is on with the ignition on.

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