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Rattling Gears and Counter Balance Shaft Adjustment


MrBadExxample

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So we all know the XX transmission sounds a little rattly, especially when it's cold. I just assumed that's how it is, and to some extent it is noisy. But as I was getting my bike ready for NEXXT, I decided to adjust the three counter balancer adjustment points. Frankly I wish I done this a long time ago. It's pretty easy, just follow the steps in the manual. The end result is that my transmission is much quieter, especially at idle. When cold idling there is still an intermittent rattle. Frankly it's not much. The engine also feels a little smoother and shifting is also smoother, although the 1st-2nd shift can still be a little notchy. Again, better than before.

For the record, this was on a 97 XX with 55K miles.

EDITED: Technical correction countershafts --> counter balancer adjustment points.

Stan, thanks for catching that error.

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I must have really got screwed. I only got one counter-shaft. But I got two balance shafts, two cam shafts, one input shaft, and one crank shaft. So there.

Dang kids. Quit playing with your shafts or you'll go blind. :icon_biggrin:

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counterballence shafts, are the only ones that adjust, right?

I see I could use a better technical editor. I meant to say I adjusted the three counter balance shafts. Sorry for the confusion.

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counterballence shafts, are the only ones that adjust, right?

I see I could use a better technical editor. I meant to say I adjusted the three counter balance shafts. Sorry for the confusion.

but there are only two!!!

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counterballence shafts, are the only ones that adjust, right?

I see I could use a better technical editor. I meant to say I adjusted the three counter balance shafts. Sorry for the confusion.

but there are only two!!!

There are only two counter balancer shafts, but there is a idler chaft that also needs adjustment. That makes three adjustments for two balancer shafts.

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Just to muddy the waters a bit more....

Starting at page 12-21, the 1997-98 Honda OEM Service Manual refers to three shafts:

1. Rear Balancer Idle Gear Shaft

2. Rear Balancer Shaft

3. Front Balancer Shaft

All three can be adjusted. But the idle gear shaft isn't really a balancer shaft, is it? Despite the word balance in it's name, no?

I've never torn one of these engines apart, so excuse my ignorance on the subject. Everything I've read (till last week) said their were only two balancer shafts, but when I follow the manual, it called the idle shaft the "Rear Balancer Idle Gear Shaft".

Anyhow, after making the three adjustments the engine and transmission were smoother.

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I'm a bit confused about the need for adjustment of the balance shafts. Why do they need

adjusting? Assuming they're set at the factory, what would cause them to get "off"? If they

are gear driven (assumption), wouldn't they have to have jumped a tooth or more to get

out of balance? Hopefully someone more mechanically inclined than me can explain the

process.

Thx.

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The clearance between the gears has to be adjusted. But only if it hs been disassembled. Or has wear.

Will make a whirring sound. Closing the clearance reduces backlash.

I have not looked but I thought, from memory, that the idle shaft on the top ballencer took the clearance out of the top set.

Was thinking only two adjusters.

Now I got to go look.

I have done the adjustments, hell I have disambled and reassembled the motor three times.

Got the front ballencer 180 out and it causes the vibration in the right handlebar at 4000 rpm. EFR told me they were not nessasary.To chicken to try it without them. Said it would make more power.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I had some vibes in the foot pegs at cruising speed and more clunk in the trans than usual so I did the adjustments. The trans shifts as smooth as can be and the vibes are gone.

Thanks for the heads up Matt!

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Took mine out -- weight the shafts/balancers and they totalled nearly 9 lbs.

Had the crank spun to check balance and was good to 15k RPM.

I then promptly decided to drop a valve, since I hadn't had the motor apart this year. :icon_redface:

Elton tried to get me to do this,,, I was chicken. I got the front in 180 off and ran it for two years before I decided that the vibration was not supposed to be there at 4500. I had to ride for hours before my right hand would go numb. Not my left. Read a post that the line was easy to think was the timing mark and not the notch, and remembered having trouble one time deciding and looking in the book.

I got a shim crooked under a bucket and bent a valve.

Did it spin-up quicker?

Would you do it again, have you?

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Well I had some vibes in the foot pegs at cruising speed and more clunk in the trans than usual so I did the adjustments. The trans shifts as smooth as can be and the vibes are gone.

Thanks for the heads up Matt!

I have the shop manual but it isn' t very clear. Where are the 3 shafts located?

The manual said "turn until resistance is felt then back off 1 graduation". What's

1 graduation? How did you turn the shaft after loosing the bolts?

Thanks.

-mike

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One graduation is the distance between two marks.

+1

And you use a big flat-blade screw driver to turn it.

AirborneXX:

By the way, I don't see how adjusting the balance shafts is going to make the transmission shift better. :icon_confused:

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AirborneXX:

By the way, I don't see how adjusting the balance shafts is going to make the transmission shift better. :icon_confused:

BTW, in the manual the process is called the backlash adjustment, as it adjusts the clearance between the gears. I observed the same benefits as airborneXX. And I too was surprised to find out that the counter balance shafts and gear clearance are related, but they are. Maybe one of the smarties here will illuminate the subject more for us.

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One graduation is the distance between two marks.

+1

And you use a big flat-blade screw driver to turn it.

AirborneXX:

By the way, I don't see how adjusting the balance shafts is going to make the transmission shift better. :icon_confused:

It's the only change I made and now it shifts smoother <shrug>

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Strange as it sounds, when I found mine 180 out, and turned it, my shifting changed, like it was new and needed to be broke in again. Had to start using my clutch every shift. Getting better at 4,000 miles on it since July. Must be a harmonics resonance wear thing. But I will adjust again for proof. Just to see if it changes.

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I need more pictures! Where in the hell are all the adjustment points. The manual needs more pictures!

There's one on the left rear of the engine, just above the water pump. Another on the right rear of the engine, about six inches across from the other one. The third one is on the right front of the engine, down low.

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