Motobeagle Posted July 31, 2003 Share Posted July 31, 2003 I pulled out the shock today to set the preload, and installed 4mm's of washers. I didn't notice a thing. Tim's wheel barely spun, and I still have about a 1/2 inch clearance. Does the OD of the washer matter? Could I have used too small of a washer, and they fit in the shock hole? The only other factor is that my crap stock tire is melting down fast in the center, and may not have the same overall height as Tim's new tire. Guess I got to get the Avon's on now. I psyched myself out of realizing any difference. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 better yet, help me out also, what external diameter, thickness and internal diamter (hole) washer should i look for this weekened? i'm bound and determined to up my preload... my new springs up front are kicking my ass in the back - literally :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodeRash Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Putting shims between the top of the shock and the mounting crossmember does not increase you preload. It does raise your ride height. You can remove the shock, add washers, and screw around trying to get the shock bolt to fit back into the coolant overflow hole, OR, you can make spacers that are open on one end so you can loosen the top mount, push the shock assembly up for clearance and just slide the spacers in place without removing the shock. To add rear preload, it may be easiest to remove the shock so you can easily access the adjustment ring and locking ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyv65 Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 ...Sitting here at my desk I don't remember the kingpin diameter, but if you pull your seat off and lift the rear of the gas tank you'll see the kingpin nut and the kingpin itself going through the centerpiece of the frame. Any washer that'll fit over that bolt and not poke out too far from the crossmember (heh, heh, I said "member" ) will do nicely. I've got 6mm worth of spacer on my 'Bird, and I'm not sure I'd recommend more than that: I think 6mm works out to a little less than a quarter inch of thickness. Also, when you start do do this, try to position the bike's rear tire so that it can drop down lower than floor level-or put the centerstand on a thin piece of wood, 'cuz if you go with the 6mm spacer the floor clearance on reassembly will be "tight". I wound up hanging the back wheel out the front of my garage, over the sloping driveway so I could work on it more easily. And while you're at it, lube the rear shock linkage-it probably needs it. One more thing: you are aware that putting in a spacer only affects the ride height, not your preload,eh? If you're adjusting your rear preload, use a bigass screwdriver and loosen the locknut on the top of the shock, then the adjustment ring can be cranked tighter for more preload, or looser for less. Bryan...I'm re-doing mine this weekend (lost some weight)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XX Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 oops, i meant adjust my preload AND add ride height... :oops: sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Pinder Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Over here 6mm is considered to be the optimum for increased ride height. Makes a HUGE difference. If you were nearer I'd let you try my bike out! Well worth doing. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Did you install or remove preload? If you removed preload, and installed 4mm of spacer, then you may not notice as much difference. I added 6mm of spacer, and noticed a difference. Not as drastic as dropping my forks, but a definite improvement on turn-in. When I lowered my forks 6mm, the bike felt great 2-up, but unstable when solo riding, with a definite weave in moderate turns. Your mileage may vary, however, as my experience has been with the 900RR shock installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motobeagle Posted August 1, 2003 Author Share Posted August 1, 2003 Hey Chris. Based on Redbird's sag adjustments we did, I cranked down the spring about 2.3 turns. I also put the 4mm shims in but didn't notice anything but a stiffer ride. I am going up to 6mm just for the hell of it. Question. Why is everyone notching out washers when it's fairly easy just to remove the entire shock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 'cause notching the washers is even easier, bonehead. Moderators- I think his avatar is oversized. Should probably be removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaygermeister Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Screw that notching stuff, use fender shims from you local auto parts house. MO Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 I fixed that avatar for you, Tim. Nothin' but love, man. :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaBird Posted August 1, 2003 Share Posted August 1, 2003 Aftre doing my forks(lost 15mm of front sag)--I went ahead and shimmed the rear to the max--approx 12mm--works awesome--the nut just goes on, the bolt--not extra room The ppor mans way to arise the rear is to simply add preload--this will have a similar effect--optimum sag--unweighted vs weighted is about 30mm---this is completely independent of increasing the ride height--BUT---if you add more pre-load, your sag will decrease effectively increasing ride height --I would agree on stock forks 6mm should be the max--but on forks with stiffer springs--6-12mm will be optimum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx60 Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 Just 3 questions: 1) Anyone experience any chain or front sprocket problems after installing the 6mm spacer? 2) Do you have to give the chain an "extra margin" of slack after installing the 6mm spacer? 3) I'm thinking about changing my front sprocket to one with 18 teeth, and the rear to one with 46 teeth, to compensate for the altered position between the swingarm & chain after installing the 6mm spacer. Will I lose any performance or power by doing this? Lynx60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimXX Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 Question- if you add a 6mm spacer at the shock, how much does it raise the bike at the rear axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.XX Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 I went to the autoparts store and got some autobody shims ....Just loosen the shock and slip em in and tighten it up again :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted June 9, 2004 Share Posted June 9, 2004 Question- if you add a 6mm spacer at the shock, how much does it raise the bike at the rear axle? About 3/4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jeff Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 Don't be afraid to try more than 6mm, especially if you are a sportier rider. I have mine at 10 -12 and love it. It makes the center stand useless though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 why is the center stand useless? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 Because the tire won't come off the ground, due to increased rear ride height. Another way around that would be to drop the front end on the forks a little, lowering the front, and keeping the function of the center stand. 1) Anyone experience any chain or front sprocket problems after installing the 6mm spacer? No 2) Do you have to give the chain an "extra margin" of slack after installing the 6mm spacer? I run mine at the loose end of the adjustment range to compensate for the altered angle of the swingarm. 3) I'm thinking about changing my front sprocket to one with 18 teeth, and the rear to one with 46 teeth, to compensate for the altered position between the swingarm & chain after installing the 6mm spacer. Will I lose any performance or power by doing this? You don't need to change the sprockets, IMO, it's not that drastic of a difference. You will effectively be changing your final drive from 2.65 to 2.56, so performance will be altered (lowered) slightly. You will lower the rpm for a given speed, and lower your torque multiplication to the rear tire. Probably be harder to wheelie, but get better mileage as a bonus. :grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynx60 Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 Northman: Thank you very much for your reply to my questions & your analysis and suggestions. I appreciate your thoughtfulness. Lynx60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted June 10, 2004 Share Posted June 10, 2004 Nobody told me I had to think about my answers :???: I just said the first thing that came to mind :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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