Lynx60

Running EBC HH pads on the rear. I watched the mechanic install them. He removed the EBC anti-rattle/squeal guards and installed the stock Honda plastic anti-rattle/squeal guards. Apparently the EBC HH pads & anti-rattle/squeal guards together are just "too thick" to fit into the calipers. As others have suggested, I would simply pull out the EBC anti-rattle/squeal guards. Just for curiosity, you may want to compare the thickness of the EBC & Honda anti-rattle/squeal guards. In any case, go ahead and yank out the anti-rattle/squeal guards. If you want, and if there's enough clearance, you can coat the rear of the pads with anti-rattle/squeal paste that you can get at any auto parts store. Lynx60

Bought a new 03 XX at end of June 04 and have put 6,500 miles on it. Changed the oil & filter @ 600 miles, 2600 miles, using Honda dino 10-40, and @ 5000 miles using Golden Spectro 20-50 semi-synth. Recently I've noticed a ticking sound (sounds like valves) when the engine is first started & cold. Sound goes away when engine warms up. Today I heard another strange sound from the engine, a rattling-growling sound after I had ridden the bike for about 100 miles & re-started it after letting it cool down for about an hour. Am I a candidate for pre-mature CCT problems??? At only 6,500 miles? Did I change to semi-synth too soon? Normally I would not buy a Honda extended warranty because all my other Hondas were bullet-proof. But I'm thinking that I should get the extended warranty before June of next year when the factory warranty expires ... just in case. Comments & suggestions appreciated. Thanks guys. Lynx60

No, Suf Daddy, mine certainly doesn't look that bad. BTW, that doesn't look anything like clutch fluid. It looks more like tar. Damn, when was the last time someone changed that so-called "clutch fluid" ... back when Abraham Lincoln was prez??? The Honda dealer in my town (not where I bought my 03) seems to be playing games with me regarding the changing of my clutch fluid. Said he would have to check with Honda first. Told me this a week ago. Today he gave me some bullshit story that Honda never returned his call, that I should bring the bike in, let them change the fluid, I should pay for it, and they'll try to get reimbursement from Honda. Rubbish. I think this dealer is just pissed that I didn't buy the bike from them. Damn idiots told me there were no 03's around anyplace. Crap. I located one just 45 miles from my town at another dealers. Anyway, today, I contacted the dealer where I bought the bike and told him the color of my clutch fluid was abnormally dark & definitely should be changed out ... at his expense, or Honda's expense, I didn't care. After some dancing around he said he'd call Honda and call me back. 20 minutes later he calls back and said Honda approved it. Don't know if this is true, or his dealership is absorbing the cost out of good customer relations, but I'm going there tomorrow morning to have the fluid changed at someone else's expense, not mine! I told the dealer the same thing happened to my 03 that I have overseas. He asked if replacing the fluid with the same Honda DOT-4 fluid solved the problem. I told him it seemed to, but only time would tell because I had it done just a short while ago. I mentioned to him that some people have switched to DOT-5.1 and noticed improved results ... but he didn't seem too willing to use DOT-5.1. I suspect that he just want to replace it with what Honda calls for, namely DOT-4.0. Question: should I insist that he use DOT-5.1??? Lynx60

Have new 03 XX that I just bought 4 weeks ago. Put about 2500 miles on it. Clutch fluid has turned very, very dark brown color. Today, I pointed out this problem to a Honda dealer. He agreed that the color of the clutch fluid was abnormally dark and should be changed out. But he wants to talk with Honda first to see if they'll cover it under warranty. FYI, this is not my first experience with this problem. I also have an 02 XX overseas, and the same thing happened ... although the fluid didn't turn as dark as it has on my 03, nor in such a short amount of time!!! My question is WHY is this happening??? Clutch fluid should certainly remain clear-colored longer than 4 weeks or 2500 miles. Lynx60

Ok, as I've said in a previous post, I've already ordered the great looking filter wrench that Peter described above. However, a few days ago, I stumbled across the wrench that RodeRash depicted above. I found it in a "Sales Bin" at Sears. Cost $8. Took it home & tried it. It works great. Just put the bike on the center stand and reach up through the opening to grasp & twist the filter off. A piece of cake. I couldn't believe how simple it was to change the oil & filter this way instead of removing a plastic side panel. I think I'll still prefer the wrench that Peter introduced (the one that I have on order) due to it's simplicity & elegance. But that $8 one that I got from Sears that RodeRash depicts does do the job with ease. By the way, the Sears wrench is made in China, a rather primitive cast-iron looking thing, but what the hell, it works fine. Goodby Dealer when it comes to oil & filter changes!!! I can now do my own! Thanks guys for all your fine suggestions!!! Lynx60

Peter, thanks very much for the info & web site for that filter wrench. That's exactly what I was looking for. I just ordered one today. That should make removing the filter a snap without taking off the plastic. Lynx60

In FAQ/Easy Oil Changes, 6/22/01 by Warchild (comments by Carlos), there is a photo of the Honda oil wrench. Does anyone know the Honda part #? I want to order one. I'm trying to change the oil & filter via the above speedy method, but I'm having a hard time finding a suitable filter wrench where I live. Lynx60

Never travel on long trips like you're planning without some type of small flashlight. There are plenty of good ones on the market today; small, compact w/great illumination. Lynx60

Thanks rockmeupto125 for the clarification about Demon's comment. BTW, I didn't know that 17/45 is the standard configuration (for USA models). I just assumed that all XX's had what mine has, 17/44. FYI, mine is a European model. Here in Taiwan, many customers refuse to accept any bike that was initially destined for the domestic Japanese market or the California market. As a European model, perhaps that is why my gear ratio is slightly different? Lynx60

Northman writes: Thanks very much. I didn't know that. I always assumed it was measured on the centerstand. Rockmeupto125 writes: That's my suspicion too! That the chain has been stretched & kinked in places due to the over-tightening. Damn, I hate it when dealers hire inexperienced high school kids to screw up our bikes and then assume no responsibility for their mistakes. Demon writes: I'm no engineer, indeed I'm a blooming idiot when it comes to gear ratios and other complicated mechanical things, but if stock gearing on my XX is 17 front & 44 rear, doesn't that equal 2.58? If so, then wouldn't 18 front & 47 rear give you 2.61, which would already be a plus 0.03 above stock gearing (without going to 48 rear which would equal 2.66, or 0.08 above stock gearing)? Lynx60

Report time! Friday, checked the space between the centerstand & the chain. The chain was no way near the centerstand, plenty of room. So the dealer/mechanic had his boys lossen the chain and give it more slack. Still not touching the centerstand. Rolled the bike out the shop door. No noise. Dealer/mechanic took it for a short ride. No noise, the clack, clack sound was gone. I rode the bike home. Seemed fine. Saturday, went on a nice ride up & down twisty mountain roads and pushed the bike hard in all the gears, sometimes revving as high as 10Krpm's. Later, drove it very slowly on quiet country road, even stopped & wheeled the bike back & forth. No noise at all. The clack, clack, clack sound was completely gone. Conclusion: I ain't got one because I'm not an expert. But since the previous clacking noise did correspond to chain/sprocket rotatation, and because they did remove the front sprocket cover and clean out all that grime & crap in there, and also loosened the chain significantly, I am inclined to believe that these measures somehow mysteriously corrected the problem. I don't know why, but I do know that last week, with the bike on the centerstand, in neutral, and with the front sprocket cover removed, I could place my finger on the side of the front sprocket and feel the clack, clack noise when the rear tire was rotated. And the noise steadily corresponded to the sprocket rotation. Anyway, the noise is gone now and I'm hoping that I can enjoy many more miles before I "really" must change the chain & sprocket. Thanks once again. Lynx60

Northman: Thank you very much for your reply to my questions & your analysis and suggestions. I appreciate your thoughtfulness. Lynx60

Andy1100: Thanks so much for the suggestion about extending the centerstand bumper. I think you've hit the nail on the head, so to speak. I'll definitely try that tomorrow. If, for any reason, I don't meet with success then I plan to invoke rockmeupto125's wisdom; namely, "Always try to go BACK to fix a problem, not forward into the unknown." And yes rockmeupto125, I knew exactly what you were saying despite the typo. Don't worry, I often make small typing mistakes like that myself. jrdxx & rockmeupto125: I think you're 100% right about the outputshaft bearing NOT being damaged. The noise I'm encountering is indeed a cyclical noise, not a grumbly sound or vibration, and there's no oil leak behind the front sprocket. Let me thank all of you for your advice & suggestions. I think you may have saved me a lot of money & aggravation. I plan to explore your ideas & suggestions tomorrow. I'll report back to you & let you know how everything turns out. Thanks once again guys. P.S. If simply extending the centerstand bumper solves my problem, then surely rockmeupto125 was on the right track when he wrote that perhaps I am "being handed a load of hooey by a dealer who is nothing more than a tinker willing to spend (my) money to fix something he knows nothing about." Lynx60

Just 3 questions: 1) Anyone experience any chain or front sprocket problems after installing the 6mm spacer? 2) Do you have to give the chain an "extra margin" of slack after installing the 6mm spacer? 3) I'm thinking about changing my front sprocket to one with 18 teeth, and the rear to one with 46 teeth, to compensate for the altered position between the swingarm & chain after installing the 6mm spacer. Will I lose any performance or power by doing this? Lynx60

First of all, let me thank everyone for taking the time & effort to reply to my problem. I sincerely appreciate your wisdom & advice. I may, however, have omitted some essential details in my initial post that could have a bearing on your analysis. Also some new details. 1. One time, shortly after I bought the bike & when the mileage was about 4,000km, the young guy at the shop who did an oil change, mistakenly over-tightened the chain. I didn’t realize this until after I had ridden the bike for about 60km. Foolish me, I didn’t check his work. But as soon as I noticed it, I stopped by another shop and had them loosen the chain immediately and adjust it. Later, I returned to the first shop and complained like hell. The owner apologized but doubted any damage was done in that short distance to either the front sprocket or chain. 2. About 3,000km’s later, I started to hear a “clack, clack sound” from the bike whenever I wheeled it around in my garage with the engine off, often when rolling it back & forth. 3. At 8,400km, after running through the factory Bridgestones and a set of Metz M-1s, I decided to switch over to the new Metz Z6s and also have the 6mm spacer installed. The bike’s performance improved significantly, especially in the tight, twisting mountain roads we have here in Taiwan. 4. At 9,920km, as I stated in my initial post, my problem appeared. A loud “clack, clack sound” coming from the chain area. 5. Yesterday, I returned to the shop to see if the new Afam front sprocket had arrived & was installed. It hadn’t arrived yet. So the shop owner & I sat down for a talk. He mentioned that he had been thinking about the cause of my problem. I reminded him of the incident whereby one of his young mechanics over-tightened the chain. The owner is very accommodating & understanding. He rides himself and is one of the better motorcycle mechanics we’ve got here. Anyway, after some discussion he more or less admitted that a mistake was made when they installed the 6mm spacer and the new tires. He drew a diagram and explained how the spacer alters the suspension geometry. Then he mentioned that the mistake was not giving the chain enough slack. After the installation of the 6mm spacer and the new tires, he explained, they simply put the bike on its center stand and adjusted the chain to NORMAL specs. However, he said, the chain should have been given more slack. Indeed, he said, the chain slack should have been checked afterward with the bike off the center stand & with me sitting on it. He also demonstrated this principle by having someone sit on my bike and showing me the before & after difference of loading the suspension. (Could any of you guys tell me if he’s on the right track here about the problem?) 6. In my discussion with the shop owner yesterday our attention returned to the suspect front sprocket. Previously he had removed it & showed it to me, but not being an engineer I really couldn’t see anything wrong with it. The teeth looked fine. He agreed that the teeth were in excellent shape, but he said the sprocket’s spline was slightly worn causing a slight wobble on the shaft, which he associated with the noise problem. At this point he made a suggestion. Knowing that I want to keep the 6mm spacer installed on the shock, and acknowledging that the chain may already have suffered some stretching, he suggested that I consider up-grading the whole setup so as to lessen the possibility of future problems. His suggestion: install a new Afam 18 tooth steel front sprocket; a new Afam 46 tooth gold-colored aluminum alloy rear sprocket; a new super-duty RK 530GXW chain; and lower the center stand just a hair. All for $303. He calculated the power output to the rear wheel would be the same as with the original sprockets, but these larger sprockets would help overcome the problem caused by the 6mm spacer. 7. The cost doesn’t bother me so much, but I hate to waste money unnecessarily. And at this stage I’m also a little worried about something that Jim referred to in his post; namely, any damage to the output shaft bearing that could be caused by an over-tightened chain. (Do any of you know how I can check to see if there is any damage to the output shaft bearing?) If there is any damage, then I certainly don’t want to proceed with the shop owner’s suggestion about new sprockets & chain. Instead, I would want to thrash it out with the owner about who’s responsible for damages since it was his shop that over-tightened the chain in the first place and later failed to compensate for the 6mm spacer by giving the chain an extra margin of slack. Looking forward to any comments. Lynx60