AlphaBird

I just got the EU2000 for tirewarmers at the track--Its a pretty sweet little unit--and best of all its a Honda--and quiet which is a big deal when the things running in your pit all day during race season

Howie, 1000RR triples, Ohlins(or stock forks), wheel and brakes would fit. BTW the "new" Ohlins forks are a tad bit longer which "may" alow you to use stock bars--if not there are several types of riser bars. Cant wait to see it, cuz I know you will do it

Id say about $1k sounds right--Its a popular motor for racing sidecars and some "mini" racecars

I,m lucky if I get 1K out of a set of tires---Maybe this will help

25mm is decent, and recommened for the track, but you may find 30mm a tad more comfortable for street riding. The stock comp/rebound settings are the best place to start. If you have shimmed the shock 6mm, and the bike is slow finishing a corner reduce the rebound, if the bike seems to be riding to harsh reduce the compression. Dont be shy about playing around with the adjusters to suit your riding style. Best to keep good records though. Good Luck

Defintely shim the rear 6mm--as covered before Careful about dropping the front end as you will lose desparately needed ground clearance. I really dont think this is required if you shim the rear. Although relatively pricey a $430 respring/revalve would be money very well spent. My bike used to chatter something nasty really hard on the brakes--not the safest thing for emergency stops. At least do the front springs 1.1kgs sound about right for most

Mine did 140HP, 80 ft-lbs stock the dyno used to be floating around--its an '02

Howie---you crack me up--Ive been pondering some $2,500 16.5" Marchesinis for the 1000RR racebike---and you got those suckers on your XX---are they Mags or Forged Al??? Regardless they look sweet--all ya need is some Ohlins on the front

You need to verify that someone didnt change the dogbone---measure it and compare it to the stocker--I actually have one off the bike I could measure for you. If that is OK--you can screw with the preload

You could always put 1000RR forks/front end on it--better yet Ohlins they should be long enough--I actually have a extra set of Ohlins 929 forks, and stock 1000RR forks--prolly too short though--too bad I am so lazy these days

Thanx. (Also, I was a bit surprized to get all that BS in the Tech [Garage] Forum.) The horn is the first thing that the brace will bottom into--thats pretty funny---also verify that the bracket is turned the right way--I put mine on backwards once and had interesting clearance "issues"--if it on properly and it still hits--it would be easy to build a bracket that remounts the horn--I forgot what a PITA all those funky linked brake hoses and brackets are to deal with.

If I had to guess, I would say its a 20kg--most Ohlins shocks for the XX are shipped with a 17kg--I think most of the guys are using 19ks--20 miight be tad stiff unless you do alot of 2-up riding---you can call Ohlins---they have a service center somewhere in the south, go to Ohlins.com--and find it---Jerry is the apps guy--hell have a chart for your weight bike--but I am almost certain its a 19kg if you weight 190-210(ish)--I changed my linkage so my 13kg spring would be of little help. BTW--$89 is NO deal--Dan Kyle can get them for $100 brand new--Dan would also be able to verify the weight

Ditto-- 4) He changes Springs--most use 1.1kgs, polishes the tubes to reduce friction, changes valving---bike handles incredibly better, I was having some pretty serious "chatter" issues with the stockers under heavy braking. I did the Ohlins on the rear because I like the Hydrualic preload---Best to get the proper spring for the rear too--NOt always the easiest thing to get--I think most run a 19kg w/the XX--Im running a 13kg--but my rear linkage is way differet The best advice I could give anyone would be to have a pro with experience on YOUR bike do it $430 is cheap to have the piece of mind of a job done properly. If it makes you feel any better, I threw $800 at the 1000RR's stockers in vain---only to spend another $2,200 on Ohlins which actually fixed all of the bikes woes--but thats a whole nuther story as if the Ohlins were available in the first place--I would have gone straight to those and never looked back---fuckin racebikes :cry: :cry:

Although all of the AOD info above it all true and valuable, Take Note: A word of warning---different bikes react somewhat differently---I would consult an expert on your bike first For Example: "03 GSXR1---every meat head and their little brother---was jacking up the rear, and having serious stability issues---then some of thev really fast guys started flatenning them----they work much better "flat" due to the increased steering head angle inplemented in '03 Example 2: CBR1000RR---this bike also wants to be ridden very flat. Ken Hill helped me set mine up, riased the front forks 10mm from stock---who would have thought. Example 3: the XX---seems to respond well to "conventional" rear raising--but I would high unrecomend lowering the front as the bike is already pretty gound clearnce challenged

Sounds like your PC3 (namely the ground wire is loose)---check it--I had the same prob---the ECU and the PC3 were just bouncing around in the tail section as the rubber band thingy broke

Mine is adjustable---you can even do it on the bike--you'll need a 24mm open end wrench

This is all correct---the issue is mounting he bars---as stock RC51 mounts wont clear the plastic

Depends what kind of bike it is --many of my friends "burn-off" their trackday tires on the street---a DOT race tire will work fine--and even not at full temp--it delivers better traction than most "road tires". I am not sure what you mean by "race tires"--on the track tires are either DOT Race or slicks--- BTW I run a 520 DID chain on the 1000RR racebike--it will be curious to see how long it lasts w/almost 160HP

I posted one a while ago---for an '02 140HP 80ft-lbs--Ill try to find it ooops no a/f on it

You ABSOLUTELY want hydraulic preload adj---as you can NOT get to the Penske very easly to adjust the preload, I can adju the Ohlins whilst riding it wouldnt be my first choice--chances are you need some pretty stiff front folk springs too

Nahhhh-that wasnt attached to the ECU, and it was the primary suspect, I actually found the problem when I tried to velcro FOUND the problem whenst I was trying to velcro the PC3 to the ECU--, I was concerned that there was a broken wire or connector--but once I secured the ECU down all was good--sos I am thinking that maybe a connector was getting over bounced some how---regardless its all good now--- So id anyone has a funy problem like this ---check the really simple stuff first--ie the rubber bands---go figure :roll: :roll:

I bought my Ohlins from Dan Kyle for $750 OTD---But make sure you order an 18kg + spring for it

A while ago, I was experiencing a on-off issues with the ignition, back firing and generally running like it was fuel starved---WRONG-- THe rubber band that holds the ECU mounted above the tail light broke---sos the ECU was bouncing around whilst going over bumps causing the abherent behavior---fixed the rubber band all is well now---go figure---my only two issuses with that bike are ass-related 1) the seat latch fell off 2) the ECU rubber band broke---go figure PS--I think Im keeping the bike---its just too much fun two-up

Sounds awfully familiar---granted the 929 was beat pretty hard http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9184

No problem---just get a really little front sprocket and a really big rear