Brake pad screw thingy is stuck....

[brianmacza]

Hi guys...

EBC pads are great for stopping, but don't last too damn long. 11,000Km and the fronts are near metal2metal...

Tried to get OE pads on Saturday, but the stealership parts counter isn't open on Saturdays to "prevent backyard mechanics from tainting their brand equity" - lameass excuse for "our workshop is bone-idle and need work"

so...

Got home, put the XX on mainstand, tried to remove abovementioned screws and they are tight as anything. Is there any KNOWN method of removing them without fucking them up completely in the process? I can get replacements (I think) from the stealership if I do, but I wanna ride my bike!!!

Have put careful amounts of WD40 on both sides of the threat already - will wait and see if that helps

[K9XX]

The flat tipped cover, or the allen head bolt itself??

If it's the flat tipped cover, then keep on the penetrating oil and find the largest flat tip you can cram in there....it'll give.

If it's the allen head, try getting penetrating oil in the other side, where the threads are, you should be able to squirt a fair amount in there.

[brianmacza]

the flat tip cover... should I drill the sucka out?

means I can ride to work again!!!!

[Dion]

Like K9 said, big screw driver so it doesn't slip and lots of leverage.

[brianmacza]

Erm... I just tried wiff a HUGE screwdriver... stripped the head completely

time for me trusty easy-outs and a drill I guess :oops:

POS fuggin honda!!! :twisted: :twisted:

overengineering EVERYTHING!!!

[arcticflipper]

Have come accross the same type of problem before on especially Hondas....

Locktight.......

To stop this from happening again, maybe use Copperslip or a similar product.

This will ensure that you can undo the stuff afterwards...

The OEM Locktight is normally a blue colour, you can check to see if it is on the tips. Looks like paint.

[OZXX1100]

Whenever u have a tight fastener, put a bit of valve grinding diamond paste on tip of screwdriver or head of bolt. Almost always works for me

[Clinton Horn]

I have no idea what tools are available in your part of the world but here in the states they make a tool that you strike with a hammer. It has interchangeable bits and as it is struck it pivots about 1/4 turn at the same time. Called an impact tool here locally. I am an old guy and Hondas traditionally used phillips head screws on their cases. Allen heads are a recent innovation. Anyway, the corrosion that sets up between the fastener and the case forms its on LOC-Tite over the years. This tool has been a never fail method to remove stubborn fasteners. Sometimes you ruin the screw but it always gives first. The tool is cheap and is an absolute requirement if you wrench your own bike. I have used it successfully on my Bird brakes several times.

[brianmacza]

c'mon... we might live in a stagnant backwater of the universe but we still get gedore tools :flipoff:

I don't have an impact driver but did the next best thing - I hit it with a BFH (big fucking hammer) and did the manual twist thingy on the screwdriver.

Pads are changed, put some copperslip on the threads and tightened gently.

Me brakes work without that nasty grindy noise again... but I'm gonna have to get some OE pads 'cos these EBC wear out seriously fast.

[Clinton Horn]

Well EXCUSE me. I would have figured that if you knew what would do the job, you would have used it. I too have decided "screw it" and paid the consequences. It takes a mountain of equipment to keep anything even marginally complicated (Bikes are not rocket science) up. We all have to make decisions as to how much of this stuff we want to house. Personally, I can mount and balance a tire with two $5 tire irons but It takes time and more effort than the correct stuff available. On the other hand, the chain breaker I tried to live without is the only way I know to put the #530 chain back together. Here in the "back water " States if you screw up a specialty METRIC fastener, you are SOL. until the dealer orders one. Blackbirds are fairly scarce in the states and most dealers do not bother stocking even basic parts. Nevertheless, the fastener you had trouble with is a guaranteed "big get off" if it fails. I am not into preaching. You know what it takes. If you choose otherwise you pay the consequences. You are correct about one thing, I am ignorant about S. Africa (except for James Michner's book) but terriblly interested in the day to day. I have had an impact driver forever and it has more than paid for itself but I have destroyed lots of fasteners with punches, vice grips and anything else I could get my hands on. Perserverence is the holy grail of the do it your-selfer.

[OZXX1100]

+1 for also always putting back troublesome fasteners with Copaslip-will never seize again.

I also always put back sparkplugs with some Copaslip as well.

My tip about the valve grinding paste-it allows the screwdriver, spanner or allen key to "grip" the fastener before the head gets rounded. But first also use some WD 40 and also if you do not have an impact tool, just tap the fastener first a few times using a hammer and the relevant screwdriver, allen key etc. This will often break the seal of corrosion or whatever and allow the WD40 to get in.

The impact tool is good but usually damages the fastener if you just use it without trying above methods.

brianmacza-hows things in the rainbow nation for riding bikes now? I left 10 years ago (emigrated to Oz). Back then, the rock throwing on the roads did not appeal too much to me on a bike :shock: . Had a huge rock thrown at my car and shat myself enough over that. Presumably, things have settled down now?

A new 'Bird must be about R130 000?! Can't be too many of them around?

[brianmacza]

Hmmm... was taking the piss, don't take me seriously!!! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: and the abovementioned BFH was an 8oz ball-peen hammer used CAREFULLY 'cos I like my XX healthy.

ZA is great... yes, we have numb-nuts in minibus taxis who drive like morons - but those types are everywhere in my experience.

The roads are fairly safe for bikers, and I haven't had many episodes in the last 5 years or so... certainly nothing to get in a sweat over. I found that defensive driving (fuggin fast to stay ahead of traffic ) is the easiest way to stay outta trouble - cutting lanes leads to issues, and responding to road-rage with attitude can only cause problems.

The XX was discontinued in ZA last month - the list price at that point was ZAR115,600 - same as for the 05 CBR1000RR

[beondwacko]

I always found that a little heat makes for a great convincer. A pencil style butane torch may help things. Heat has always helped me in the past when it comes to beating locktite.

[arcticflipper]

Also recently looked at changing my front pads, after closer inspection, I found that I still use the OEM pads that came with the bike, and I've now had it on there for 26 000 km....

Still looks like new?

Maybe it's time for me to start using the frigging things... lol

The OEM front pads is coming in at +- ZAR 380.00 per set.

It is a bit high, but worth it for me - 26 000km + on a set.

I've found that the rear doesn't last as long, have replaced mine after 20 000 km. again with OEM pads.

[brianmacza]

My bike has done 48000km plus now... shit... I did 18000km since Feb 17th, 05. :crazy:

this is the 2nd set of front pads I will have replaced (the bike was at 30000km when I got it) and the last set of fronts lasted 10000km or so - the backs are 1/2 worn and don't need attention yet.

The EBC's are VERY soft - brakes are dynamite, but the wear is worrying. The disk rotors are fine, no rough patches, no gouges...

[Pete in PA]

Don't put those stupid flat discs back in there! I pitched them and ordered 3 rubber plugs, what's used on the newer XX's. Works great!

[brianmacza]

I considered using cardboard cut to fit, but the fire hazard made me rethink

[Dano]

I'm confused, ( my normal state) are you talking about removing the plastic plug that covers the brake pad pin?

db

[brianmacza]

on my '97 bird its metal. SOFT metal. Easily distorted and abused metal.

the price of progress I guess - might make some plastic threaded plugs and be done with it.

[Dano]

on my '97 bird its metal. SOFT metal. Easily distorted and abused metal

I was wondering why so much trouble to remove a little plastic plug.

That explains it.

[XXitanium]

Pre-ride. SWMBO requested check of DOT-4 levels. Stuck tiny screw. 

 

I tapped on the screw driver with a dead blow a few times. Funny thing, I have about 100 flat blade screwdrivers. I can only find about four Phillips, and most of them were the wrong size. There was one stubby that was bigger end. I was worried I was going to strip it out.

[XXitanium]

I put a tiny bit of anti-seize on them before I put them back in.

[superhawk996]

33 minutes ago, XXitanium said:

I can only find about four Phillips, and most of them were the wrong size. There was one stubby that was bigger end. I was worried I was going to strip it out.

JIC is your lord and savior when working on Jap stuff.  Oddly, I find that JIC drivers fit phillips screws better than a philips driver, but a phillips in a JIC screw is loosey goosey.  The first time I used a JIC driver I was like- holy shit!  It feels like it's stuck to the screw.  It's almost like being in a torx or allen screw, but it will allow you to drive at an angle if needed.

 

When you see a phillips looking screw that has a dot punched into the face, it's a JIC screw.  Pretty sure every phillips looking factory screw on a Jap vehicle will be JIC.  For decades I wondered why Jap vehicle's phillips screws had the dot and why they were more problematic than American phillips.

[superhawk996]

I've wrecked several JIC screws using phillips, but haven't had an issue since discovering JIC drivers.  Buy some.

[XXitanium]

31 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

JIC is your lord and savior when working on Jap stuff.  

I was reflecting on that while I was stumbling around my shop. I was going to order a set couple years ago. I never got around to it. Something happened 

 

Last week I bought around at the bar that would have cost more than it would cost me to get that set of screwdrivers. Screwed up priorities.

 

I've been going in and out of Home Depot getting stuff for redoing the top of the deck. .....next trip. Japanese-Industrial-Standard.