arcticflipper

I;ve used the Stealth Tri-Metal sprockets before, but only rear,didn't like the front that we could get down here. It lasted the longest of all sprockets I've tried on the XX, and it looks oh so darn pretty with a black XX!! Bitch to keep clean but well worth the cash IMO.

I have a simlar setup as the OEM ones. Same mounting brackets, but with VFR800 (interceptor) panniers. slightly bigger panniers and they were cheaper.

It's definitely mid corner as soon as you get on the throttle. Speed is anything above 200kph (124 mph). I did also notice that I can somewhat reduce this by pulling the handle bars slightly back whilst in the corner. This seems to stop the shake a bit. Pulled all teh bearings, stearing, wheels, swing arm etc. and checked , cleaned and repacked them all. Bad news is nothing needed replacement or showed any damage. So now I'm even more lost.... besides for the fact that I live in africa.... lol Talk to me about the under-load effects? I've had the chain and sprockets replaced about 80miles or so ago, so they still fairly new. Could it perhaps be a snatch effect from the chain when I roll on the power? Could this have anything to do with the front sprocket drive shaft or bearings that might move when under load, or would it rather be towards the rear axle that might move or pull under load? Could it perhaps be the swing arm that passes 0 degrees whilst in the turn, which then causes the chain to pull the wheel towards the one side, which could then cause the shake? Perhaps this would then be one reason for me to seriously reconsider the 6mm spacer on the rear shock, to provide more of an angle between the swingarm and 0 degrees? I know for a fact that I've not exceeded the handeling of the XX, had some comments like that. I'm just simply not a good enough rider for that. I'd like to get some more info on the mid corner ideas you have.

Thanks at least you made me smile!!! I've now moved over to the following: Replace front and rear wheel bearings. Check front and rear axle check front and rear rim replace all bearings in and around swingarm. Next step will be to get hold of another XX shock and test that.... Anyone have a OEM shock they want to sell????? Please??

How often do you guys change the needle bearings on the swingarm? 02 XX with 86 000km on. It feels like the swingarm is moving. Flexing under high speed sweeps. Could there be anything else to check? or just the swingarm bearings. What is the correct torque settings for the swingarm?

Thanks for the info, I stripped the fork completely, but can't seem to figure out how to get to the valving inside the dampning rod. I think I'll send it off to get done. It's clearly not a DIY job for me.....

I'm looking at the racetech website, wondering what I need to buy. I see there's a fork gold valve kit, and also a rebound valve kit. Do I need both? Or do you normally only replace the rebound valves? http://www.racetech.com/evalving/english/S...angname=english Is there any cheaper place to get these from?

OK opened up the fork. Pumped the dampning rod a couple of times, and it never gets harder - this kinda tells me that when the shim stack in the valving was cleaned it must have somehow been damaged. Now the dampning rod on the inside of the fork is connected to the valving? Or is the valving also known as the dampning oil piston? If I order valving online, do I just replace the old OEM valving with the new set, or is there more to this than that? HELP

Fuck that's what I thought! I've now had the forks out twice in one week! Taken it to a dealership ant told them that it wasn't right, they keep on giving bullshit stories. So now what do I do? Do I strip the fork down that feels like it has no rebound dampning? or do I get new valving and replace both? SHIT this is frustrating the crap out of me now. Can someone please give me advise on this? I don't really understand or know how the valving works together with the oil piston. From what I can gather the oil pistons actually controle the flow of the oil, and not so much the valving on OEM setups. Thus the reason why you change the valving on the forks to allow better oil flow control to be handled by the shim stack (valving) instead of the oil piston. So from this it seems like the oill piston could be clogged up? I've recently opened and cleaned the shim stacks on the valving - not me but the stealer did it while I was watching. I did notice that the valving looked different on the two forks. Does anyone have more info, the workshop manual doesn't say much about the forks and valving nor oil piston.

I've recently had the forks service, valves cleaned etc. Now I got them back today, but I'm not sure the job is done correctly. The left fork returns slower than the right. Is this right? Does the one fork control dampning or is there a compensation for the LBS built into the one fork - left fork when sitting on the bike?

Who's got them? What works? Any problems with them? Any recommendations?

There's no glue that comes with the kit, only the FendaExtenda, tape and I think 2 screws. The glue you will need to get yourself.

What can I use to buff the panels to give a new bike shine? Have some scratches and paint damage too that I need to take out.

Thanks Can you buy this stuff in sheets, I don't really want to go to the local stealer for this, if I could get the same thing for cheaper elsewhere....

What meterial is used on the inside of the fairings. It looks like sponge, but I'm sure it's not just normal sponge? I'm respraying and checking the XX - it's close to 100 000 km. I saw that the "sponge" was looking a bit worn and damaged, thus with the respray I could just as well replace that too.

Living in South Africa we generally have more sun than rain. Also have a Puig DB installed, with no problems. As the others have said - Don't worry about it. I know earlier on there was a problem with the Wareagle screens and MRA screens that did melt or deform the dashboard on the bikes. Saw a couple of them at our local Honda Stealership with the damage. It was only the MRA and wareagle screens that did it. I think that problem has been resolved by now?

I'm running 100W dim's with no side effects yet, Don'tk now if you guys get the same globes down there, but stay away from the Cool Blue bulbs. They are brighter but the spread of light really sucks bigtime. I saw better with the OEM bulbs than with those.

Had a similar problem on mine, and that turned out to be clogging on the valves. Once I got that cleaned everything else was fine again.

Did the clutch recently, and could not build up pressure on the clutch lever. No matter how hard I tried to get it right. Spoke to a couple of friends and they told me the quickest way to get the air out would be to use a clamp on the rubber hoses. Pump the lever, and slowly release the clamp. This worked like a dream, and the air came out quickly.... After that, just bleed like you normally would to get all the air out of the steel piping. So what I'm getting at is that I think the majority of air gets trapped in the rubber hoses, and is more difficult to get out than what it would be if there was any air trapped in the steel piping. If you blead the brakes according to the manual in the right order, and did not get any air bubbles, I would think you should be safe. If you are not 100% sure, maybe use a clamp on the rubber hoses and see if there are any bubbles coming up in the reservoir?

Thanks man, is making some sense now. I will strip it this weekend and have a look to see what they did and what the condition of the 4th gear is like.... Will let you know.

ZX9R '96 Model I'm not sure what is meant with undercutting the gearbox. As far as I know that normally means that the selector dogs are worked on because they can not select or slot correctly with the gears? This is normally done when you are slipping gears or missing gears.... Now that's not the problem that we have experienced with the 4th gear. When you decelerate while in 4th gear, it feels asif the bike is jumping? Asif the gear catches and then doesn't, and then catches again.... Can select the gear everytime without any slipping or problems. It does not jump out of the gear either.

Not an XX, but I don't know where else to go for answers on this problem. 4th gear has been undercut twice. and it's still not right. What is happening is that when you are in 4th gear, and you close the throttle the bike starts shaking on the gearbox. Does that make any sense? Any Ideas as to how to get this resolved? Have also tried a brand new 4th gear, but still under deceleration it's studders, shakes, don't really know how to explain this..

Came across this, don't know if it will help any. http://www.diamondpowersports.com/lowerlinks.php - for parts http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0210_lower/ - for more info

This has been bothering me a bit, and after another trackday I found that the front tyre wore excesively. It cupped way to fast on the track. So I then turned back to the front suspension and stripped the forks completely, even the valving. Cleaned everything with a fine comb and check everything 3 times. The valving was clogged up by fine dirt and some metal chafings. No wonder the suspension wasn't feeling right. Managed to clean everything out, and also managed to put it all together the same way it came appart. Feeling pretty chuffed with myself, and I can say that there has been a major improvement in the bikes handeling. I went with the 7.5W fork oil, instead of the 10W Honda OEM fork oil. The bike feels like it is gliding, no more hard knocks or bumps. Did another trackday, and checked the wear pattern on the front wheel - no uneaven wearing down anymore, did notice that the rear spring was set a tad too hard - to compensate for the panniers. Guess this will have to do, or I need to do the trackday with the panniers fitted... :icon_doh:

Might be worth while checking the hand controles for lose wiring? Went over a bump and then the headlight went out completely - if I held the pass switch in, I did have full lights. Found the problem on the throttle controle - lose wire.