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Posted (edited)

So, I tried Google yesterday. 

 

I saw a post somewhere that said that if the CBR1100XX is started before the fuel-injection light goes off, it can light up the oil-light. When I clicked into the link it turned into pages of posts. Irode about 10 miles with it lit, but it didn't come back on after a proper restart.

 

Have any of you experienced this?

 

...oil-light, engine-light, IDIOT-light

;)

 

Edited by XXitanium
Posted

Pretty sure I did this sequence while trying to get away from a cop walking over, and in gear already.  Starter button, ignition on, clutch, vroom-go.

 

Posted

i normally wait for the fi light to go off before starting but on the few occasions i didnt i cant  recall ever seeing that

  • Upvote 1
Posted

Crossing my threads - the FI light is back it came on after riding along just atad to high if RPM in fourth gear?

 

I shut it off and it went away for a while. The bike seems to run well.

 

 

 

Posted

It might be the test plug needs cleaning.when mine started playing up on my 99 the fi light slowly started glowing brighter but by using the indicators or flashing the high beam it would go off for a while.it could also be a code 25,check the ecu in the tailpiece is still strapped down.same type of strap as the tool kit strap.ive read that bouncing around can trigger it.only issue with code 25 that ive read about is the light eventually stays on and the bike may run a little bit richer.

  • Upvote 1
Posted (edited)

 It has been awhile, iirc it was harness ground issue? I mean erratic behavior like that? Also, don't overlook battery connection, and charging system.

Edited by tomek
Posted

I did the loom fix a few years ago.

 

I'll check the ECU. There was a half hour of pounded City roads the other day. 

 

I'm too old and fat to appreciate the sport bike hammered ambiance of Wisconsin roads much more.

 

 

 

Posted

 Stock, tired suspension? Suspension upgrade time. It will make a huge difference. 

 

Two years ago I had to send my aftermarket shock for service. I installed back OEM part just so I could ride.

 It was three weeks of torture. Honda factory shock sucked that much.

  • Upvote 1
Posted

I fucked up last week. I set the tire pressure at 42.

 

The tires were cold. It made the ride much harder.

 

I have the Givi wing rack in the way (and not being used) o this would be easy to check the ECu connection.

 

Can I run it 300 miles home or will a loose connection fry the ECU?

 

 

Posted

the ecu is easy to see when you take the seat off.it sits in the ducktail

i have only read about this issue on an australian blackbird page on facebook.

to find out what code the ecu throws out there are a couple of steps you do which i cant recall.found this link https://www.cbrxx.com/threads/checking-for-fi-faults.10115/

if it throws out a code 25 which is for knock sensor but it seems replacing the knock sensor rarely fixes it.

theres thoughts it could be damage to something in the ecu due to heat or excessive vibration but no one really knows as the ecu is encased in resin.

some comments from aus blackbirds 

It can also be caused by ecu not tied down properly , bouncing around
2
I fixed mine by covering the FI light with a button. Out of sight out of mind… 😎
Still goes hard enough and has been to Phillip Island without any issues…
 
  • Useful/Thanks! 1
Posted

The battery strap was loose laying on top of the battery. I don't know what kind of bump I had to hit to have that come loose. We looked at the ECU. It looked like the connection was fine,

 

can I take off the tail light and get at edit enough to pull it out?

Posted

I removed it.

 

Pull the seat

Take off the high tech retention device.

Tip it back and pull forward.

Keep your fingers our of the way while your millwright friends argue about who get to undo the little snappy things on the ECM.

Your buddy that came along with the GTI stopped and got WD-40 contact cleaner and Permatex dielectric grease.

...they actually let you hit it with the contact cleaner and grease.

 

Then it got hard...

 

The high-tech ECU retainer pops.

 

:(

 

PXL_20240615_233701867.jpg

PXL_20240615_233754517.jpg

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Posted

Disconnecting the ECU may have cleared codes

 

Put it all back in place.

 

Millwright buddy informs me - isocyanate (Super Glue) was invented for splicing o-rings.

 

We fixed the high-tech retainer device. See small black patch....

PXL_20240615_235542868.jpg

  • Haha 1
Posted
2 hours ago, XXitanium said:

OK, the light came back on shortly after we pulled out and rode 300 miles home.

 

The OBD2 connector is wrapped in here?Screenshot_20240616-203806.thumb.png.e33a7492f5e9c9ee7fd911b78af1bd9c.png

 

The oil light came back, or FI light?  You've talked about both.

 

It doesn't have an OBD2 connector, just a two wire plug.  You connect the two together with a small jumper wire and the ECU will flash the codes using the FI light.

 

As far as the oil light and waiting to start, I'm pretty sure I started mine without waiting and didn't get an oil light, but I won't swear to it.  I think the light is wired straight to the pressure switch, but I'm not sure of it.

  • Upvote 1
Posted

I had trouble seeing the lettering on the overcast day. It was easy to read on a sunny day.

 

It was the large red Fi light near the gas gauge.

 

4 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

It doesn't have an OBD2 connector, just a two wire plug.  You connect the two together with a small jumper wire and the ECU will flash the codes using the FI light.

Thanks!

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