Furbird

I never intended to just flat out give up racing, but when the track I used to race at quit having a bike program, then bought ANOTHER track and put all their programs there (still no bikes) yadda yadda, time flies, life gets in the way. There were no stations here that sold E-free fuel when I parked it, which is why I pulled the tank and pump, drained it, and drained the lines and rail. Can you soak injectors in something to free them up?

OK, went all in on this today, and nobody is going to believe me, but I'm going to tell you anyway. So, fuel+air+spark+compression=runs. Pulled two plugs and checked fire, both coils are firing. Spark=check Pushed my hand down on each individual throttle body and turned the motor over. Every cylinder tried to suck my palm in. Compression (redneck version)=check Air=duh So, one by one, I pulled all four injectors off of the Furbird to put on the street bike on cylinder 4. No change, still no fuel to cylinder 4. Checked ground on the black wire, ground is good. Pulled the computer and checked continuity from #4 injector plug at the connector to the ECM, got continuity. So it's not a wiring problem. Now we're down to either a bad ECM, or all four of the injectors on Furbird are bad (statistically impossible?) So just for shits and giggles I swapped cylinder 4 (non-working) injector with cylinder 3 (working) injector. Mother fucker moved to cylinder 3. So that means EVERY SINGLE INJECTOR on the Furbird is no good! What the actual fuck. So, now I guess I need 5 injectors! I'm going to build a bench injector tester design that I found on youtube and energize these apparently stuck injectors off of Furbird and tap them to see if I can get them to free up. I'm guessing they're gummed up (bike has been parked for a long time) but I emptied the tank and drained the rail before I mothballed it, so I'm guessing maybe some residual Obama gas was in the injector itself and gummed it up? I believe I may have an extra set of throttle bodies over at my parents house in the garage, but I'm not too confident they won't be fubared either.

I had a set of used factory coils I picked up from somebody on here a few years ago. It was coils with wires. I'm going to pull it back down again and verify it's got spark. I'm also going to pull the fuel rail off the Furbird since I don't race it anymore and use an injector off of that. Thank God that bike already has the tank and airbox off of it because it's a messy, time consuming, and paint-scratching job.

So the bird is only running on three currently (99 model.) Diag was pretty easy, as it was cool this morning, so I warmed the bike up for about two minutes, pulled the top lid off the air cleaner, and opened the throttle bodies. Had little wisps of condensation coming out of three of the four cylinders. The one closest to the throttle had nothing (I don't know if that's 1 or 4 but we're going to call it 4 until somebody corrects me.) I had a new set of plugs and another set of coils/wires in the shop, so I replaced that plug and the coil for 1-4. Still there. Cranked the bike back up, and while it was running, unplugged the #4 fuel injector. Bike shut down after about two seconds and the FI light came on, so I am assuming it has the ability to read the loss of feedback or resistance from the injector, which tells me it's not a wiring problem. So, at this point I'm only left with two options. Complete loss of compression on 4 (highly unlikely as I put a bore scope in there and the piston is at least intact and I don't hear anything that sounds like something disastrous happened internally) or the injector is not physically pumping any fuel in. Anybody else agree with that diagnosis? Any reliable source for a replacement injector? Anybody know a redneck way to test the injectors to make sure they are working correctly? And just for giggles, what about testing that coil? It would be a heck of a fluke to have two coils that both have the exact same cylinder bad but figured I'd ask just so I can make sure.

The sand is going to be stuck in the oil that was in the frame, so short of washing it out with something, I don't know how you would fix that. I would just convert it and be done.

Good deals on this stuff!

Might help had I added the link. Duh! https://www.waterlox.com/

The link you gave goes to a PVC ground tube, which is the same description as the HF one. The HF reviews say that the twist locks fail and it does not hold up to rain very well. I would have to assume you have a previous version that was better built.

Maybe this stuff? They say to use this on wood counters (which I had thought about doing) but they also make marine products as well. If it lives on a sea-going vessel, surely it will last longer on a deck. I know there is a company around here that does something similar to Rhynoliner like they put in truck beds that supposedly will last 30 years on a house. Maybe that's an option as well.

I only learned how to paint when I bought my house and found out how much it costs to get a pro to do it. However, the pro's I got estimates from and the pro who did the addition on my mom and dad's house all swear by Sherwin Williams. My entire house, inside and out, is all Sherwin Williams. But I don't know anybody with a painted deck, so I can't really help you with that aspect. Everything I've ever seen has been treated lumber with no stain or paint.

Is yours concreted into the ground permanently, or does it slide into that PVC tube? If it's completely removable, how does it stay locked in place when it's in that tube?

I've always been leery of the extendable flagpoles, but now that I see that you've had one in the south with our storms out of nowhere rain patterns, I'm seriously considering this. Wondering if the one you linked is the same one they sell at HF.

Well, it's all about how much you want to spend. When I bought my TV, LED was outrageous so I went with a 1080p 120hz LCD Vizio. I also bought the Squaretrade warranty. After about 18 months it took a dump, and the repair guy came to my house and replaced the power supply and the motherboard. The repairs alone were the price of the TV. Since then, no problems, and it's been about 5 years. My parents bought a 1080p 120hz LED Samsung Smart TV and it's got a huge grey/green shadow in it that shows up horribly when the screen is white, but I see it all the time with my eagle eyes. They aren't concerned with it, but I have Squaretrade on it too, so eventually I'm just going to have them go repair it whether they want it fixed or not. What I'm getting at is BUY THE WARRANTY!

www.slickdeals.net You'd be shocked how cheap you can get a clearance TV with lesser features (which sounds like what you want) from time to time. Especially at Walmart.

If you already have the door panel off, I would suggest cutting a piece of scrap wood to fit between a solid place in the door and the bottom of the glass, even if you have to put one all the way to the very bottom of the door. You can attach screws through existing holes in the metal into the wood, or make new ones since the door panel will hide whatever hole you drill. It might rattle, but at least you know it's not going to fall. If you've got a pool noodle or soft foam, you could duct tape that to the end of the board that is pressing against the glass to cut down on movement further.

Sounds like it's going to take "that DaveK money" to buy this one...

It's been many a moon since I installed a cruise control on anything, but we tried that engine speed thing once on a Toyota T100 (that oughta tell you how long ago it was.) You set the cruise and it would go WOT intermittently. We had to go old-school and put the magnet on the driveshaft because it was before Audiovox had the VSS location on the truck.

I've bought two parts bikes (original intentions) and ended up making them both runners. Hard to kill a bird.

I know you don't want to hear this, but I have to mention it. On the Furbird race bike, I actually salvaged that from becoming a parts bike. It had spent most of it's life outside, and was a stunter before I got it and repaired or replaced damn near everything on it. One of the worst problems it had was the wiring. There is the notorious negative block in front of the rear tire, but this one (99) also has a positive block next to the valve cover on the inside of the left frame rail. Both the positive and negative blocks were so compromised that I had to replace entire runs of wiring due to the corrosion. If you cut back on the harness and see more and more corrosion, you may have a compromised connector further up the line. I had a 4 foot run on mine that was corroded all the way through and didn't stop until it hit another connector. And I don't know if your year has the positive block or not (from what I understand, if it has one, it has both, as that is how they hook in to test everything from the factory during assembly) but you may want to check.

It's been so long since I've seen anybody post about actually having to do a valve adjustment that I forgot that's even in the manual. I'm sure the lube is causing the measurement discrepancy, but maybe somebody who's been there will chime in.

So has it been inspected and been issued a rebuilt title (revived may be the term there) or is it still salvage? Because if it's salvage, and you've been riding it, let's just say you're a brave soul to do that in the People's Republic of California. That is one lengthy process to get it "revived". https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr13 This is one of the main things I do here in Alabama which is the reason I'm asking. Salvage vehicles are illegal to operate and are subject to immediate impound here.

Its probably Obama's fault. Probably?!?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-HONDA-CBR-1100-XX-BLACK-BIRD-CBR1100-SWING-ARM-OEM-52200-MAT-200-/262141538738?hash=item3d08da71b2:g:mKoAAOSweuxWRPJs&vxp=mtr That's not a bad price on the swingarm, IMO, and the free extensions make it a no brainer if you were going to do the conversion.

I don't know of any supplier that makes a complete, aftermarket swingarm for a bird. There used to be a couple of places that made bolt-in swingarm extensions, but I've lost the links over the years. You can find one every once in a blue moon on ebay, but they are pretty rare. I personally don't care for the look, and if you don't have the upgrades to necessitate the arm, you're just perpetrating as a racer. I can't even begin to list the number of fakers I've put on the trailer running my bird at stock length. You kill 'em on the tree and keep the nose less than 8 inches off the ground and it takes BIG power to catch you.

.02 window? The local track has an event where you have to try to hit zero on the thousandth. Closest one to dead on with a zero (for instance, 8.900) wins the pot. One night they had three people run dead on with a zero and had to go to the fourth digit to determine a winner. I remember back in the 90's when life was so much easier. Those of us on bikes were happy to just be hitting the tenth on dial-ins!