Furbird

Logic would say certain destruction. Oil would build against the restriction until something failed.

(calculates how many Reese's cups I'll have to cut back on for the next year to cover the purchase price...) 🤣

My old parts manager drove all the way to Texas to get one and he let me drive it once. Easiest extended cab pickup to park I've ever been in. It was like driving something half it's length. He bought it because he used to tow a lot and he and the entire planet will tell you that once you back up a trailer with one you're ruined for life. You can still get the parts for the rearend steering, but some of it can be pricey. I have not heard of a lot of failures with it, and my old boss still has his and has had zero failures with the rear steering. They also made a Suburban with this option, and that is supposedly extremely hard to find.

My initial thought is fluid level also, BUT, those trucks are NOTORIOUS for having transmission issues, so YMMV.

That second picture is much clearer than the first. That is well outside of an alignment issue being the cause. That thing would crabwalk like crazy to have that much wear that far over from center. I know around here we have several roads with pretty intense crowning because of the amount of rainfall we get. Also, if you ride where you have heavy traffic, especially truck traffic, it will create literal ruts in the road from people driving in the same position in the lane over and over. High heat also increases this effect. We have all of that here. My Firebird with the 315 rear tire width tracks like crazy on some of the roads because of the way the heavy trucks have compacted the asphalt. Another thing to think of is left side lean time. Hot pavement can do a number on tires, and every time you park your bike it's on the side stand. Over and over, always left side. That's going to overheat and potentially flat spot that part of the tire, however microscopic it may be, and over the course of the life of a tire that flat spot may end up being all over the entire circumference of the tire on that one side. I never trust the marks on the rear adjuster. I always measure it. Interestingly enough, I had a friend of mine that said every time he did a wheelie his bike went left while in the air. I told him to check his rear wheel alignment and not trust the adjuster marks. It was off. No more left turn wheelies. So go do a wheelie. If it pulls to one side, your adjustment is off. Or just use a tape measure. Less felonies.

Nope, the guy is just damn good. Never fails to get it on two wheels. You can see his trick, sandbags or something in the bed on one side. Probably 100 PSI in those tires. The guys in the SUV's going from left wheels to right wheels are impressive too. Then they come by at higher speeds on two wheels (60mph or so?)

Well, that explains why my brother won't let me be a passenger in his truck anymore...

It's the crown. You're always leaned slightly towards the crown whether you realize it or not, hence the increased wear. Just ride into oncoming traffic half the time and the tire will wear evenly 👀

Oh, when I went to pick it up, I heard all about it. I ordered my 99 I believe in March 00 and picked it up in April. The guy told me they priced it wrong and it was supposed to be $2,000 higher (as they were still trying to clear out 98's then) but stuck with the deal. Might be because I handed them a check for the full amount, but I bet they still lost money. I would ride over there to buy my oil and filter from them when I needed it until I found out about the diesel oil from here.

I wanted one as soon as I saw an ad for one, but no way I was buying another bike with carbs. In 2000 I had the money, but they had changed to Titanium and I wanted black. Found a dealer in Pascagoula, MS willing to order me a black 99 but they made a mistake and priced it as a 98. $8499. Bought my 96 WS6 Formula and the 99 bird within 2 months of each other, and a 4X8 trailer (in black) to pull the bike behind the Formula. Still have all 3.

Offer 'em tree fiddy.

Simple stuff that has actually worked in the past: Unplug the ECM and plug it back in. Seriously, just removing the plug and reinstalling has made a difference for some. Check all your ground connections to chassis. That would take a manual when you get into the gauges (not sure if there even is one up there but I would assume so), but the ones next to the tank bolts are easy to get to. I added a ground from battery to frame and from that exact same point to the engine to eliminate any chance of a ground loop. What you don't want to hear: You might want to check and make sure your rectifier isn't failing. Put a meter on the battery while the bike is running. If the voltage is going above mid 14's, you've got a problem. One of mine shot up to 17-18 volts and all kinds of stuff went crazy. They usually fail dead (no charge) but of course one of mine would go the other way. Actually boiled the battery on the bike in my profile pic.

If you read a couple of posts down you'll see it's mostly a 99-2000 problem, as this was solved by the 01 model year. There are actually two of these, one is right by the battery box taped up in the harness, a big boxy bulge that should be pretty obvious upon close examination. The ground one gives the most issues, but there is also a power one that is under the tank in the harness on the shifter side of the bike. Location can vary slightly, but basically in line with the throttle bodies. It's been so long since I've fixed both that I don't think I have the pictures anymore.

It's an endless spiral. Personally, I'm not dyno tuning something unless I absolutely must squeeze as much out of it as possible, as the costs per horsepower are staggering, IMO. The Furbird was never tuned, and it had a 75hp direct port nitrous kit on it. But the reality is, no matter how much money you have, there is ALWAYS somebody faster. Bolt it on and enjoy it and don't worry about a number.

60k with a full system and a K&N air filter, no Power Commander, no issues. I'd be more worried about the fuel pressure regulator failing (mine has twice) than a Power Commander failing.

Do you have a video of what they look like lit up? Is it arrows or how exactly do the signals look?

New tires and he didn't clean off the excess lube? I I I V

Shipping kills the deal (slickdeals joke...)

Location and price? One would assume Houston or Pensacola but you know what happens when you assume...

I bet if you changed that seat out to a Gunfighter with the little pads on it you'd keep it. Made all the difference in the world on mine and I've never put the stock seat back on since.

Please, please, please tell me you don't believe there are two lines running to your house. Also, please tell me you understand that the heater doesn't "draw" from anything, it's pressure from the water company or well. Please tell me how in the BLUE FUCK that it makes a difference if your tankless system gets it's water inlet from the now non-heated tank or from the cold line running from the street, and how that can POSSIBLY affect the temperature of the water coming out of the faucet or shower. Please tell me you didn't just post that. I'm usually just sitting back and saying to myself "Zero gonna Zero" but that has GOT to be top 10 dumbest shit I've ever seen you type.

No matter what you do, eventually it is going to start leaking, whether it's used or not. The fact that it will sit stagnant for extended periods will just accelerate that concept, as the water is not being replaced with new water frequently. If it's in an open area, it's wasted space. If it's in its own closet, they probably will not install the tankless system in the same area as that is a disaster waiting to happen (a sealed container next to a heat source = boom.)

If nothing else, at least it's keeping this post at the top of the page...

If you had clicked on my link, you would have read what I was referring to. But I figured I'd let somebody else chime in so I didn't catch all the flak.

I think you might want to look up running an engine lean before you make such a statement. Lean is exponentially worse than rich, and the spark interrupter (it doesn't cut it, it modifies the timing so it fires so far after TDC that it creates little to no compression on that stroke, and varies it between all cylinders so it's not the same one over and over.) First hit on google: https://itstillruns.com/dangers-running-lean-8113517.html