superhawk996

I had a windshield crack overnight on my Jaguar S-Type R. It was parked in front of the house, nothing around that could hit it and no extreme weather. $900 and it was several years ago. Even shittier, I'd already negotiated a sale and the guy was coming from Maine to get it, otherwise I woulda shopped around for a junkyard window.

Price dropped to $30k, get this off my damn driveway!

The crack looks small enough to be repaired. If there are no signs of impact it might have been a bad installation and you might be able to get it replaced for free.

I emailed him asking how he knocked off 65lbs., enjoy. Hey Donzi, When I got it with 22k miles as a rescue, kept adding everything possible, hard bags, electrics etc. Then got dialed on handling and went other way. I had a photo of one of the first big demo jobs involving the subframe and whale tail piece chop mod and there was a pile taking up a 2'x 4' folding table. Ha! But chronologically, center stand removal (5lbs), shorai 1lb lithium bat (-5lbs), titanium bolts, tail remod, subframe shave (-17lbs), tail light removal (1lb), akrapovic titanium full exhaust (11lbs vs oem 36lbs -25lbs), linked brake system remove replace with standard (5lbs tubing and 2secondary master cylinders) more titanium bolts, plugs, covers, new fairing pieces and front fender cut down and heat pad removal. 1.5" Heli bars -1lb. Titan front axel cover plug and oil plug -1 lb. Next project was to be single rear axcel swap with VFR and new lighter mag wheels. more a Ducati wheel and swingarm style move then weight but would shave a few lbs. It plowed corners when first got it and now almost flickable for power weight ratio. Hope that helps? Perry

That's the vent for the vacuum valve so yea, problem.

Yea, I dig it. Technically it's a pile of shit compared to any modern bike (brakes, suspension, tires, etc.) but it's fun. I feel bad for those behind me, but also enjoy making smoke clouds when I whack the throttle. And the only reason I have it is because California wouldn't let me street register my XR650R because it doesn't meet street bike emissions requirements. But the old two smoker is fine because it's a street bike.

Hadn't thunk of that, great idea. If it does loosen it maybe a plastic scraper will get the chunky stuff off. I tried it dry and the plastic just wasn't quite hard enough to make it happen.

I considered that, and have been somewhat longing to play with my PC system again. There are also paints that people say do a good job of faking chrome.

I tried aluminum foil and water, it seemed to work much faster than the steel wool but scratched the fuck out of the chrome. I wish I'd used it on a hidden area. I think it's the rust particles doing the scratching, not the material being used to scrub. Neverdull seems to do nothing for the crusty rust, just removes the lighter stuff, but doesn't scratch at all. It also seems to do nothing for removing the scratches made with the wool and foil.

I have two cans, both are dried out. I get to wade through the yard to get to the mineral spirits.

My guess is that the crusty stuff will shred it, and that it's too mild to remove heavy rust, but I should try it just in case. I should also see if it'll remove the swirls.

Any tips tricks appreciated. It seems worse to the eye than in the photo. I've started with oiled steel wool and it does ok, then I use a fingernail to pluck away the larger chunks, then steel wool again. I use the fingernail on the heavy spots to avoid excess scrubbing for fear of damaging the chrome. I considered Evaporust, but the label says "safe on most chrome" without further detail so I'm leery. The rear wheel is probably going to be the biggest challenge, it's super crusty and the spokes will make it harder to scrub than other parts. Any other methods I should try? Some spots I've started on. The wool works, hoping to find something faster/easier that's safe. The cleaned spots show lots of swirly scratches, I don't know if those were hiding under the grime or created by the wool. I plan to clean a spot gently to see.

"65lbs. shaved". That seems impossible.

Even if the diaphragm is working, the hoses stay full of gas so they could leak whatever's in them.

I'd never thought about that, I don't do bodywork. Silicone spray lube is very clean looking, use that instead of petroleum oil 😇

I think what's advanced the most is how much power/speed you can get from cheap Chinese air tools. It used to be difficult to find a budget air gun that had enough power to be useful, now it seems hard to find one that isn't. It's likely that you can get a new Ingersol or other top brand tool that's more powerful than the old ones, but I've never felt that my old ones needed to be upgraded. If your old high end tool crapped out today you could probably replace it with a HF tool that would be as powerful or more. I have had some good old tools that lost power, and one that seized, while in storage. A shot of oil in the inlet usually cures them, and don't forget to grease them if they have a nipple. The one that had seized required a tear-down to get it back to full power. I now try to remember to hit them with oil right before putting them away since I know they'll sit a long time, 3-4 drops and one quick hit of the trigger. Smart me would run them all a bit once in a while, but I don't.

Nope. My ancient air ratchets will crush battery versions....and your hand if you're not careful. Battery impacts have improved greatly and appear to be about on par with air. I think air can go higher power/speed than battery, but they've gone beyond the normal needs so it's moot. Then the other things. Probably the biggest reason to stay with air; the tools are cheaper and they all take the same hose, unless you move up to huge tools and have a small hose. Air tools are smaller, but the hose is a pain, and can be an absolute hindrance in tight spaces. All metal air tools are about the same weight or less than battery tools, depending on the tools compared. Pretty sure the plastic air tools are always lighter. Air is usually noisier, but I find the faster high pitch hammering of battery impacts to be more annoying. The sound of an air ratchet is almost like a 2 stroke, very distinct and brings out a certain feeling. And they sound similar to an air starter motor, a sound I really miss. All that said, I was the first to adopt battery power at the International dealership. They were more expensive, way lower powered, and the air was free. Everyone thought I was a moron, eventually I started hearing them from other bays.

That's pretty much how I look at all the vehicles I sell, and most are going to total strangers far away.

You said "blinker relay clicking normal"; always normal when you select right, or normal only when the lights decide to work? Also, did the problem start after the bike sat a long time or was it in regular use and suddenly started acting up? And how many miles on it? So far, I'd say it's the switch. As for buying one, I'm sure you can get used ones on eBay. I've never taken one of these apart so I don't know what's in there. I've cured others by just blasting contact cleaner through the opening and moving the switch back and forth.

Was he pissed about it, or just sharing what he'd found? You lucked out, just one more month and that could have been your problem. I'd say that I'm shocked he didn't inspect it before buying, but I've sold several cars to people that didn't inspect or take a drive before handing over the $. I had one that didn't even open the car door. He and his buddy walked around the car a few times and looked through the windows, then handed me the asking price. He had about an hour drive home and as he was about to start it he asked "is it ok on the freeway, it doesn't overheat or anything?" "It drives fine at any speed, no issues, and you can enjoy the A/C." "Oh wow, it actually works?"

It's now closer to Ebay prices. Figure out what you'll net from them, set the price there, and the odds of a sale will likely increase.

Imagine the WTF and smile with a 30-40% boost in power. It's been a few days, probably due for another battery charging and blow-off valve cleaning.

If you compress the spring while it's in the truck it'll probably allow removal without removing the upper arm. Installing the compressor while the suspension is loaded eliminates all or most of the work of cranking the compressors. Another option may be to hammer out the lower mounting studs allowing the bottom of the shock to slide out instead of having to be lifted out, that could eliminate the need to compress the spring. If you don't want to transfer the springs and ends, you can buy shocks that come fully assembled with the springs ready to install. The lower bolts on most, maybe all, aftermarket shocks aren't pressed in like the OE ones so if the old one slips out with the studs removed, the new one will slip in.

She might have been and just not letting them run long enough, I've known a few people that killed batteries that way. They take out more than they put back by not letting it run.

A leaking shock is no biggie, especially if it's the kind of leak I usually see after a shop inspection where it's just damp. If it's dripping down the side, then you should start planning for a replacement. No need to do all 4, but doing the pair is highly recommended.