superhawk996

🤯

😆

Sweet! kinda odd that it had air in it, maybe a botched bleeding some time in the past.

MUCH better, that seems pretty reasonable. If the stock system can handle one that'll simplify things, if not, use a relay for the power handling and the stock fan power lead to activate the relay. You can get an adjustable thermostat to run the other one and set it to a lower or higher temp, whichever you prefer. The thermostat I'm thinking of has a long thin rod that goes through the radiator fins so it senses the temperature off the surface. The rod is super long to work with thick radiators, you can chop it.

You're such a stupid fucking cunt and your CDS (Cuban Derangement Syndrome) runs so deep you can't even see that I wasn't the one who resurrected your cam chain post, it was XXitanium, I merely responded to it. As for your paint job, I did nothing but complement your abilities. I said very clearly that I didn't have a clue how to do it, it would be retarded to then pretend I know how to do it or to insult your job on it; that's your specialty, don't project your retardation onto others.

If those mounting bolt heads are resting on the tubes expect holes, if they're not the fans are loosing efficiency. The further they are from the rad the less air they'll pull through the rad.

I've never heard of a 13a fuse, but you'd want one for each fan. I'm guessing FiXX is probably right with the 15a suggestion, and everything else he said. The fans are most likely to run while you're riding low speeds or stopped, when the bike is making the least amount of current. The charging system's output rating is probably the max it'll do, at idle it'll be much less. I've never heard of a Bird overheating without having a cause, seems like you're trying to cure a non-existent problem and going way overkill with it. If you're gonna do it you probably need to re-wire the fan system pulling the power from a relay feeding off the battery instead of through the stock fan circuit. Even better would be to run one fan off the factory trigger (possibly with a relay depending on its amperage draw) and the other off a separate thermostat that'll come on at either a lower or higher temp so that both will rarely or never run. Or just run the stock fan, or maybe one of those if they pull more air than stock. With so little space I'm surprised you're able to fit those. Hopefully they'll survive the header heat and not cause more problems than you're already facing.

I never ran T6, I used the older Rotella. If I were gonna use it today I'd probably go with T6.

"Might try it" meaning you're gonna run some 0-20 and report back? Was that from Tomek's R1 track bike when it ate a bearing, or some other bike/occasion? If that was a separate occasion it would strongly imply that maybe he's doing something wrong.

Thank you.

That kinda looks like a dial indicator, but they only measure linear movement in line with the plunger; what is that thing called? Today I played with the adjustments and might have figured out the solution. The mysterious mechanical clutch actuator is kinda odd and it appears that I just need to make some adjustments/tweaks. The cable is too long to get a proper adjustment without having the adjusters all the way out to where they're falling off the threads, but at that point I was able to get a good release and find neutral. I'll take some measurements using your guy's measurement & photo to confirm, then I'll probably have to have a cable made to the right length. Thank you joblock and blackhawk.

😁 Joe's good people, I've met him twice.

That guy?!? Oh he's just setting you up because he saw that you're new. But as long as you don't get suckered into giving him your address you're probably fairly safe.

If the front caliper is below the rear reservoir, I'm almost positive it is, it'll work. It's not as far below as the front calipers to front reservoir so it'll be slower, but will still work. Some will say that gravity bleeding doesn't work and that you need pressure or vacuum, but I've been solo bleeding systems using only gravity for a couple decades. Another trick that's handy (especially with LBS and ABS where you REALLY don't want to deal with air intrusion) if you need to remove a hose or caliper, depress the master cylinder piston a little bit and it'll keep the rest of the system from going dry. On a car that means using a bar or something to hold the pedal down a bit. On a bike I use a zip tie to hold the front and a screwdriver or other slim thing to hold the rear pedal down, slip it between the pedal and stop screw or whatever limits the up-travel of the pedal. You don't need to depress the piston enough to make pressure, but if you do it's no biggie, when you first crack the bleeder you'll get a tiny spurt then nothing. In most masters the piston only has to move about 1/8" to block the port, but the lever/pedal travel will be much more than that since they all have a leverage advantage. I usually move it enough to feel a little pressure and that's a guarantee that the port is blocked. I've left systems open for days using this trick and the master was still full. Once the repair is done open the bleed nipple, a beer, then release the caliper piston. Pour fluids as needed, just know that beer isn't good for brakes and DOT4 might fuck with your taste buds so try to not mix them up.

Here's my flushing method: Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir and refill, not necessary, but it speeds things up rather than waiting for the old fluid to go though the bleeders. It also lets you suck up the sludge that tends to accumulate on the bottom of the reservoir. Open bleeder(s) and add fluid to the reservoir as needed while it drains. Letting gravity do the bleeding makes it easier and more foolproof than pumping. Once clean fluid is flowing from the bleeders you're done. Optional; put a small piece of hose on the bleed nipples to guide the fluid into a container and reduce the mess all over the caliper. After closing the bleeder gently bend/pry the hose off the nipple and it won't make a mess. Beer is technically optional, but it gives you something to do while watching the fluid flow.

Re-reading from the start to remember things. Mine takes a lot of pressure to lock the rear tire, way more than any normal (unlinked) bike. When I bear down on it hard it slows way better than an unlinked bike since part of the pressure is actuating the front. There may be nothing wrong with it.

Did this start suddenly while the bike was being used or something that happened after being stored a while?

Hear it how?

I've heard lots of concern with painting helmets causing them to weaken; do you use special paints, research what kind of paint is ok for your helmets, or just say fuck it? I'd dig having my helmet match my bike, never had one.

That is true, but "everyone" who road races cars talks about having to run heavier weight oils. I assume it should translate to bikes. The part about being able to afford to rebuild them frequently makes sense, they are probably giving up some longevity for a few 'free' horses. So I guess the long answer would be that the light oil will work well enough to not be instant death, but the engine will suffer. Do you think light oils might have lead to an early death on your R1? Speaking of which; I lost track on that motor. Did you rebuild it? If so; any power mods done in the process?

Yea, lighter oil can free up some power, but the flipside (in my mind) is having to keep it cool which means more weight and wind drag from a bigger cooler. I can't imagine a 0-20 in road racing conditions, but even a 5-30 seems impossible and he apparently runs it. Hhhhmmmm, but also smoked a motor so.. ? Tomek, please understand that I'm not challenging you, I'm truly curious about this. Try to set aside any BS from past conversations and not interpret my doubts or questions as implying anything, it's purely curiosity and you have more first hand experience & knowledge with this stuff than I'll ever have.

Which 0-20 can also do that? And is there an advantage to running something so light vs. something a little heavier, like the 5-30, that can handle more heat?

That is cool, I wouldn't have a clue where to start, other than to find someone to teach me or just do it for me.

Thank you. Would you take a shot at about the angle of the first one but with the clutch lever depressed? That should give me a good reference for how far the stock system moves it.

In road course track racing conditions or drag racing?