superhawk996

Acetone, that woulda done it.

Yup, about 15-20 miles east of the city of LA. That might be a bad place to split, sounds like a high likelihood of a citation. I had no idea you were in border traffic. First time I rode in AZ I was splitting constantly assuming it was legal, I had no idea CA had that one freedom over AZ. After knowing it was illegal I did it anyway, but with a little cop caution and extra respect to cagers.

Cleaning up and found a motorcycle....maybe two. While most normal people would ask how the fuck that happens, maybe even call bullshit, I get it.

If you can give a good description of what it does from idle to 6k we might be able to help.

Gut reaction is that you need a new mechanic. Especially if he's the one that decided you needed new diaphragms.

If I got stuck and no way to lane split out of there I'd just turn it off.

From his description I thought he'd rigged up some kinda two stage filtering.

"Standard Honda secondary sponge filter"...what is that? The stock filter isn't a sponge so I assume you grafted something together...? I looked at a photo of the BB filter on HiFlow's site and it looks nothing like the stock filter. If the photo is of what they sell for the BB and not some generic photo, I'd be highly concerned. Changing the size/shape of the filter can have a drastic impact on the airbox's tuning.

A squirt of WD40 will fix it right up. How'd you discover it was bad? Noise while riding, caught it while doing other stuff, ...?

Yes.

I guess you used enough of it.

The air outlet is regulated to whatever you set it to so unless you're planning to add something to the unregulated side the tank pressure has no impact on it. 175 in the tank lets you have more air volume. If the regulator lets you go to 175 you could hurt tools or other stuff you add, it would also let you supercharge stuff. Just remember that when you put two pounds of shit in a one pound bag it might make a mess. Most tools are designed for 90 PSI, I run tank pressure with most of them, mine tops out at 120-125PSI

Fail point 1 is the original post, apparently the only punctuation he knows of is quotation marks so he doubled up on them to make up for it.

Maybe not. Since you can reach it you should be able to unscrew it, install an elbow, then pipe into that to get it out in an easy location, then the valve. You might consider an automatic valve, they do a quick purge every time the compressor cycles, they're cheap & easy to install.

Probably bullshit. As pressure goes up CFM goes down, there's no getting around that AFAIK unless it's a variable speed/displacement pump but I doubt you're shopping $$,$$$ compressors. If it's a really high end compressor they could be showing minimum output specs instead of maximum, but I can't imagine anyone would do that. 15 CFM is pretty big at any pressure so unless it's a fairly high dollar compressor they're lying all the way around. It sounds like HF's bigger compressors would be an upgrade from what you have, maybe not enough to be worth doing, dunno. I have an old cheapo oiless with about a 10 gallon tank and from your description it slightly outperforms what you have. I was initially going to suggest just replacing your pump, but it's probably not worth doing with the rest being old and abused. I'd take off the air filter and see if that speeds it up, then clean or replace it, other than that it's probably a waste to do any further work on it. I have one showing up today that would make you jizz, ridiculous overkill for home use. I guess you could run pipes around your entire neighborhood and sell air, then it would be worth it.

You pollute all of CBR1100XX.org with your crap so don't be too judgmental.

How did you measure? If you have the leads in two yellows I have no idea what a good one will read, and since you're only seeing 5v my guess is that's what you did. AFAIK you should have your red lead in a yellow and black on a ground, altho reversing them would also work fine. I believe you should see around 50-60v revved up and each of the three yellows should show a similar voltage. If your stator was only putting out 5v. I'm pretty sure you'd have no charging and you do have some.

If you don't feel the need for a full face covering:

I like it. Not as much as I like the TRUMP 2020 masks, but that one's much less likely to get him in trouble.

That bike might be the most horrifyingly ugly thing that makes me want to keep looking at it. It's like a hot horny redhead midget with a hunch back, I don't know what to do. Please understand that I'm not dogging your bike at all, just trying to figure out why I'm attracted to it while also thinking it looks all wrong. I poured my piggy bank into the Coinstar yesterday so Dave's got the best chances.

All Balls sells lots of junk and supposedly some name brand quality stuff. My assumption is that they get the cheapest they can find for each application and puts their brand on them. If they can't find chineesium for an application they might be forced to buy a quality bearing. Their bullshit marketing hype makes me not trust them. They use lots of pretty words to imply high end stuff and are smart enough to not say they're no-name Chinese bearings.

Damn car rebuild police. If someone buys a totaled car from a difficult state, gets it re-titled and registered in a state that's easier, then takes it back to the difficult state; does it have to be re-inspected? I assume they'd just transfer it since it's already titled & registered. It's funny how different things are in different states. In CA you can buy a totaled vehicle and all you need to put it back on the road is a brake and light inspection. It doesn't matter how fucked up everything is/was as long as those two things are good. It can still be a mangled mess, don't matter. I've also learned that it can be easy to get around a salvage and keep it a clean title car, I've done it with two cars. In both cases I told the buyer, they didn't care. When I did my 999s I showed up at the inspection place with it in the bed of the truck expecting to have to unload it for them to test stuff. I was a bit nervous because the tail/brake light wasn't DOT, the guy said that as long as it works he don't care. Then he asked if I test rode it before buying, yes. "Did you get on it"? "Fuck yea"! "you're alive so the brakes work, ok, come inside and we'll do the paperwork". It never left the bed of the truck. From there I had to go to DMV for a VIN and engine number verification. He was too fat/lazy to get up into the truck to see it (base Tacoma squatted down with the cargo) so I volunteered to read them off to him. The engine number was hard to see so I read it off the paper I was holding. It was legit, but I could have easily faked it.

As Fur said, and I wasn't watching. And there's no way to know if it sold for now, that I know of. Unless someone hit the 'buy now' price of 24k the insurance company could let it run through again. I sold one of my cars yesterday, 928, so if the rail comes back I'll be armed with a little more $ to consider throwing at it.

More power being shunted off by the regulator making it run hotter, unless extra accessories are always being used, or it has a series regulator.