superhawk996

It's California. I mailed off a duplicate title request early/mid September and the check still hasn't cleared. I called DMV Wednesday, they were supposed to call back, nothing. I called again today and the person said that they're currently working on stuff that arrived 9/15 so it should be close, but wouldn't give any estimate on much longer it'll be. I asked how long after the check clears should I expect to see the title, about 3 weeks. 3 weeks?!? It should be 3 days, but it's California government employees. When I call AZ MVD I get a human pretty quickly and so far they've all been cheerful and helpful. As soon as they realize that I need level 2 support they make it happen. The CA people never answer but they have a call back system which is better than holding for over an hour like it used to be, so far it's 2 out of 3 to actually get the call. And one of them didn't even know the fee for a duplicate title but thought she did so she gave me the wrong price. Luckily I double checked before sending the form otherwise the 3 month wait would have been completely wasted. I've been wanting to come out for a visit and waiting since the title 'should be here any minute' for several months. The person that owns it kept saying she was going to do the request and I finally gave up and did it myself after waiting a couple months. The car has a few years of back fees so AZ registration to the rescue. It's a free Civic so I want it, but paying the CA fees would eat up a lot of it's value.

Right up there with "easy fix"/"cheap fix" to describe some problem the vehicle has. Getting a replacement title here takes a few weeks, assuming everything goes well. Nobody can print them but the DMV headquarters in Sacramento.

To add to that, if an out of state buyer wants it he's even more likely to pass on it. In some states transferring ownership within the state on a bill of sale isn't a big deal, most have their own form, "transfer with duplicate title" or something like that, which will have to be filled out. Going into a different state can be a huge problem. AZ and CA both require the actual title for anything coming from out of state. I know you well enough to trust that it's not stolen and I would't buy it unless it was cheap enough that I could throw the trailer away.

I think it'll be well worth the effort to get a replacement title. It's bad enough trying to sell a summer toy in winter, adding the no title makes it worse.

Wow, I guess it's been way too long since I shopped for hand tools, that is a smokin great price if they're US made. I looked at a few ebay ads and I was able to spot the differences between US and Chinese pretty easily, and the prices reflect it too. The sellers of Chinesium don't state it, the US versions are clearly stated as such.

Also, if you're comparison shopping beware that there are American and Chinese made versions, not counterfeit, but 'legit' Craftsman made in both countries. I don't know if they're priced accordingly in stores or if they all run together and it's luck of the draw as to what you get. The ebay photo isn't good enough for me to say which one they are, but I heavily lean towards Chinese because of the apparent differences in the stamping depth of the sizes. Shitty stampings is one of the most obvious features of the China version, in some cases parts of the numbers are completely missing. This doesn't guarantee that the tool is inferior, but it's a good indication of not giving a fuck during manufacturing/QC.

I haven't shopped them in a long time so I'm not sure. That price seems to be good, but not too good to be true.

That was my thought too.

Does the crossplane just make it easier to feel the limit of traction, or does it actually let you use more power without slipping? I feel like the uneven power pulses should make it more prone to slip a tiny bit earlier and make it easier to tell when you're getting close to the limit and control it...my uneducated and untested guesses. I've only ridden the crossplane once, it was someone else's that I'd just met so I didn't fuck around much, I love the sound. Coming off the Bird the R1 felt like a minibike with 200hp.

Can you feel a difference in traction controllability between the flat plane and crossplane?

Typical home 3D printed stuff is somewhat fragile and might have to be pretty thick to be trustable for this depending on what stuff will be carried.

If they're getting paid it's not a waste of their time. A car audio shop is probably a better option, most of them make custom stuff using plastic and fiberglass. As for clearance, look up the suspension travel specs and measure the current clearance.

And fake Motorcraft parts.

I had a K&N and Yosh full system on my '01 with no tuning and didn't detect anything wrong, and it pulled noticeably harder than with the stock exhaust from about 5K up. Do you have a photo of your header? I pulled the header off Cecome's bike (previously it was on another member's super farkled whitebird, CBRbear maybe?) It was supposedly an early model Delkevic and that POS was killing his power.

You have your formula, I have mine.

yack jizz.

I hadn't thought of it before, but yea, I kinda see that now, even in my 3D memory of it. It's metallic and pearl. I think one or the other, or maybe the combination, makes it not reflect shine the same way that a normal white would. I've looked at Lambos factory painted in this color and altho I never got to put the bike next to one to compare in detail, I don't recall seeing an obvious difference. The closest I had was riding next to one briefly.

All of the above, but the guy fucked up and it came out shiny and perfect in most areas.

A couple more angles. Photos, especially my shitty indoor ones, don't do it justice. 3D with natural lighting it's spectacular.

Shit, I brain farted and forgot that they're gear driven, thanks for fixing my fuck-up.

I wonder if maybe your balance shafts are a little out of synch and the extra pressure of manually manipulating the CCT brings them closer to synch enough to mask it. I've read the procedure on checking/adjusting them and from memory it wasn't a tough job. A few people have said that doing it made a noticeable difference in vibration even tho they didn't have a vibration complaint.

My guess is that they revised the part in '01, but AFAIK they're all interchangeable. John will know, and can probably supply the latest one for less than the price you found.

"Not a real biker." You know the best part about having an unsafe unreliable uncomfortable POS bike? Short parts runs feel adventurous, and no worry about speeding tickets. I had this thought yesterday after I dusted off the Harley to do my errands on. I kinda sorta love that piece of shit. I only did around 20 miles, 2-6 miles at a time, and it was enough. I dig the low crappy idle, thathump thathump burpthump stumblethump...I'm amazed that it never stalls, and that nothing noticeable has vibrated off during my ownership.

Fast ride? More like casual cruise.

If the Bird rotor holes are on a smaller circle than the holes in the wheel, like where the green dots are in that photo, I see no way for the adapter to work. If the wheel had a smaller circle than the rotors then maybe, but unlikely. I think the rotors center on the wheel and not on the screws, kinda like car wheels that are hub-centric vs. lug-centric. If the holes in the rotors and the screws are tapered then the rotors are centering by the screws, if they're flat like I think they are they're relying on the machined 'pads' in the wheel for centering.