superhawk996

Maybe the sprockets are miss-aligned, either because the wheel isn't straight or a sprocket has the wrong offset. Or the chain is too tight, or lacking lube. I can hear when mine is starting to get thirsty.

Yup. The first step is usually stiffer front springs matched to the rider's weight, sometimes combined with a fork oil change, I think 7.5wt is the go-to. Then fork valving mods. A stiffer rear spring for heavier riders or people carrying cargo or a passenger frequently. Then revalve or replace the rear shock. A few have gone crazy with inverted forks and other cool stuff.

A sledge hammer is much faster. 😁

Just to be clear, it didn't become a dog at low end and I never felt the need to slip the clutch more or do anything obviously different while riding, but doing back to back runs from low RPM up an onramp I was able to feel the change. Somewhere around here is a post about the test back when it was fresher in my mind. I like the look & sound of duals more than a single and while I liked the performance and the fun sound of a sporty exhaust, I also like being able to blast in the stealthier mode so I went back to stock and sold the Yosh. My current Bird has Two Brothers slip-ons and the noise level is about on par with the Yosh, but being dual I'm not as inclined to want to go stock. Plus they look great with the other mods on the bike.

I can answer some of your questions and give you an idea of what you can expect. On my '01 I went from all stock exhaust to a Yosh 4-1, and back to stock, the only mod on the bike was a K&N filter. With the Yosh it lost low RPM power to around 4k, then above 6k it gained more than I thought it would. It wasn't crazy loud, no more than any other sport bike with a full length performance muffler. Slip-on mufflers with the stock header would theoretically add some high end power without loosing low end like the Yosh did. My current BB is a '97 with slip-ons and altho I never did a back to back test with the other bike my gut says that the theory on slip-ons is probably accurate. The weight of the whole Yosh system was about equal to one stock muffler. The two slip-on mufflers I have now probably weigh less than one stocker.

Is that Bigfoot or just a blurry biker?

Where is this offender and what does it look like?

I have a Penske in the garage that I need to rebuild and put on, been fucking it off for far too long.

Sierra rides an Italian Harley, you can't trust him.

In case I was unclear, that three orange wire connection or somewhere between it and the front bulb base is where the problem is. Quite often I find the bulb base to be the problem so don't over look that, even if it looks ok. Sometimes the contact sinks into the spring loaded disc that presses against the bulb. Sometimes the disc jets stuck and doesn't press both contacts onto the bulb contacts. Sometimes the wire breaks right behind the disc.

The meter has very high resistance so even tho it shows voltage that doesn't mean that the circuit will light the bulb, but it does indicate that it's not a completely open circuit. There is a high resistance somewhere and it's probably in the power side, not the ground since the running light works. Jumping from where? The problem lies between where you jumped and the source to the front signal bulb. The handlebar switch has one left signal output, somewhere that connects to the front & rear signal wires, that's the source, aka starting point to finding the problem. I don't know where that connection is located on the bike, but from what I see in the manual it appears to be in the front. Power goes from the handlebar switch to a multi wire connector, 8 wires total, all from the handlebar switch. Then there's a connection that connects that wire to the front & rear. Front, rear, and incoming are all orange so look for a junction containing three orange wires, guessing it'll be a bullet style connector.

Hey all, we suckered in some fresh meat! We are, and will take stabs. Read the "only one rule" and believe it. Unlike other forums, we can and will talk a gang of shit without being reported or censored. Some people are just flakes. Maybe the system isn't notifying him or they're going to his junk mail. Or maybe it's sold and he's too lazy to say so, but at that price it seems unlikely.

ME😁 I didn't want to chose one specific chart/comparison because there's a bunch of them laid out in different ways and each person likes different things, and I didn't want to imply that I have faith in any particular one.

Let me google that for you.... I typed 'fork oil viscosity' and the auto fill options were chart, comparison, etc. Click and view, there's a bunch of them.

And note that while the number on the bottle 'should' be the end of the story, each brand will have it's own viscosity so it's not as straight forward as one would think.

I've read that using a lighter than stock oil makes them better, but don't remember which was suggested. There might even be some instructions out there for tuning the valving. It would be worth checking into that stuff before putting them back together.

It should, especially when moving slow.

Every tuner and engine is different, but in my limited experiments the 'high performance' tunes seem to do best. Many others report the same, but I don't recall reading any MPG comparisons on the 6.4. I imagine a tow tune would be the worst, but your MPG is pretty good. Is she a casual cruiser or pushing high speed? And did you end up deleting the DPF and regen? Running a hot tune on a 6.4 is a bit sketchy, especially if it was created by someone that isn't really familiar with the 6.4 and isn't willing to sacrifice impressive numbers for longevity. If you're running 10 year old tunes they're less likely to be as safe as something written after people learned the weak points.

I saw about 3 HP increase between a dry chain and freshly lubed chain, lubed on the dyno between pulls. It was a modded Busa making almost 200HP.

Never lube and never adjust implies it'll last forever, I don't buy it. My guess is that they'll be similar to non-serviceable items on cars. When ignored the 'sealed for life' parts last longer, but if a serviceable part is properly maintained it can last damn near forever. According to a guy at Spicer putting on a training for heavy truck stuff, if serviceable U-joints are properly maintained they'll outlast the rest of the truck. If they're fucked off they'll be dead long before the sealed version, but the sealed version will wear out.

I have a hydraulic press, porta-power, and lots of hammers; they'll fuckin fit.

Oh, I thought this was about the XX. It was a little sticky.

Build an anti-chase oil slick sprayer and dump the fluid into the tank so it'll be repurposed instead of wasted. Add burnout sprayers to your tires for on demand spectacular smokeouts.

I would try flushing it out with a 'normal' fully evaporating contact/electronics cleaner, then possibly a lube. It could be that the lube combined with crap in there and gummed it all up. I doubt it's worn out, but I'm pretty sure the bike sat outside a long time before I got it. The switch was super sticky at first but got better with use, then it would get shittier again the longer it sat. It was sitting in AZ where you picked it up so probably not much rain/corrosion, probably a fair bit of dust. It rarely sat outdoors uncovered once I got it, but even in the house it would get a bit stickier when it sat unused. I don't recall ever disassembling one of these, but I've done others to clean/lube. That's a possible option.

No way, it's junk now. Send it to me for proper disposal. I've seen sediment in oil bottles and don't know if that's good stuff that searated out of the oil or junk that was in it and not filtered out in the processing. I asked an "oil expert", I think it was someone at Amsoil, and he said that if there was any separation to throw it away because that means the oil is fucked. The rumor is that the more complex the oil the more likely it is to go bad sitting. Makes sense, more additives more chances of something not jiving. If the stuff you have still looks & smells like new stuff I'd use it, if not I'd toss it. A few bucks worth of fluid vs. a potential rebuild.