superhawk996

I love that you go the distance for us to show the rarely captured scenes of Birds in hibernation. It's so pleasing to see them taking a well deserved proper nap.

Do you happen to have the Whitebird that went to me, then Carlos, then back to you? I seem to recall that the pads were getting on the thin side, but the rotors looked fine. I didn't measure them, but they didn't look to need replacing.

You always say that and it's never happened, you're wrong as usual, it's no surprise. "Never" being in reference to anything here, we call on each other for help with other stuff. Logically, an expert such as yourself would not let a Cuban moron get in the way of showing how much better you are by continuing on with showing your build process. Clearly you're just a weak little cunt that's afraid of being challenged and shown up by a moron. Fighting words in 3,2,1

Sorry man. I was looking forward to an update and just assumed he was busy with other stuff. Considering what a moron I am and that I've may times appealed to his knowledge I really didn't expect him to get butthurt so easily. My guess is that something went wrong on the build or he just lost interest otherwise he'd show how knowledgeable and great he is by continuing.

Super drunk Dave, funny. Ashely and I have several Daves so nicknames have been added on. Chino Dave, Retard Dave, Dave and Karen Dave, Drunk Dave, ....

Or the one he killed by 'racing' it on 5-30 oil. Or was it 0-20? Either way it doesn't matter, every professional knows that you're supposed to run lighter weight oil in road racing situations.

Lots of people successfully experiment. For example, I made some 30-30 loads using a 9mm Luger powder charge and the velocity matched the expectation. It's of no particular use for me, but it is for some people. It was just fun to do. I didn't have any .308 Norma Magnum brass so when the gun showed up so I made some from my .338WinMag brass that I have lots of. It's likely impossible to find a book load for that, but it seems to shoot just like the book loads I use while ignoring the brass portion of the recipes. I've substituted bullet types many times with no noticeable changes in velocity or pressure. A 30-30 hollow point bullet at .308NM velocity vaporizes watermelons. Some bullet types can make a big difference and could be a problem. I've interchanged rifle and pistol primers as well as magnum and standard primers just to test with no noticeable issues. There's potential for light strikes and primer blowouts, I didn't have any issues, but I'd only make batches of stuff like that if I were in dire need.

That's the opposite of my feeling as well as many others', but I've only done a little bit of shotgun loading. There's plenty of fuck around room in metallic reloading and lots of us do it. Mixing some powders seems like it should be safe with hulls and metallic reloading but 'everyone' says not to. I can't imagine a situation where I ever would. Red and Greed Dot have very different characteristics, I like Green more. Substituting primer brands does nearly nothing in pistol and rifle but can be a problem with shotgun, not an instant kaboom, but they can fall out. Mixing shot size should be safe within limits. With a few exceptions, mixing brass has no impact on safety. The capacity of some hulls is quite different than others and the pressures can vary wildly if they're used willy-nilly with the same other components, but probably not dangerous if your your loads are mid range.

I recently got rid of a bunch of cheapo 12ga. hulls after getting a bunch of AA's. If you don't care about them being 'premium' hulls any trap & skeet range is covered in them, some people also leave the premium stuff. The cheapos are generally referred to as 'non-reloadable', but they all reload. I believe 20ga. are more valuable than 12 so you should be able to trade or sell them pretty easily.

Yo, we aint workin cow cunts with a handful of bull jizz. Carlos is working with Yak jizz and I'm working with car jizz, normal coverage is usually enough.

So, you're saying that they fit like a glove? Non-OJ glove of course.

Make sure you only use Honda branded oil too, not some generic crap. 🙂 I used Motul 300V 10-40 last time. It's stupid $, but the shift feel is so great I might keep doing it. The oil looks and smells like no other, it's green and has a sweet fruity smell. Tastes different after use, but still ok. It does't mix with rum so I tossed it.

Yup. They're both the same part # superseding two different part numbers, maybe one of those was a supersede of the other. There's a bunch of filters that work in place of the motorcycle branded ones. One of the Bird versions, don't remember if it's the carb or EFI, has a little more room and allows for more options. I used a Purolator PureOne on one of my Birds but don't remember which. I think I've also used a Motorcraft, but that might have been a different bike. PureOne (AKA Motorcraft) are great filters. Motorcraft are cheap at Walmart, but they only carry the common sellers. Last I checked the Walmart Supertech filters were from Champion Labs and they were pretty good, especially for the price, but they have visibly changed and I haven't researched them to see if the quality is still there. Here's a list of options. These Oil Filters have M20x1.5 threads, 14 psi by-pass valve, anti-drain back valve, 2.3" O.D. gasket 2.5" to 3.5" long. If you have the room, I recommend the longer filters. Purolator has changed their filters from a concave to a convex fitting surface, so they no longer seal on some motorcycles. Motorcycle Filters AC Delco PF2135 AMSOil SMF103 Carquest 85358 AC Delco PF2135 FRAM PH6017A Honda 15410-MCJ-000 K&N KN-204, about $13. Metric nut on end for easy removal. Mobil M1MC-134 NAPA Gold 1358 Purolator ML16817. Imported, not made by Purolator. STP SMO 17 WIX 51358 Recommended filters. All have superior filtering. About 2.5 inches long. Purolator One PL14612, about $6. Mobil M1-108, about $12.  Made by Champion. Bosch 3300, about $6.  Made by Champion. Wal-Mart SuperTech ST6607  Made by Champion. HKS 52009-AK005, About $35.  Not quite as good at filtering as those above, but very low drag on the oil. Used by all serious racing teams. In racing applications should be changed every 5-15 hours. About 3.25 inches long. Purolator One PL14610, about $6. Purolator Boss PBL14610. Royal Purple 10-2808. Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.  Made by Champion. Mobil M1MC-134 Bosch 3323, about $6.  Made By Champion. WalMart SuperTech ST7317,  about $2. Made by Champion. Automobile Filters, about 2.5 inches long. AC Delco PF1237 Baldwin B1400 Firestone TF2876 Hastings LF113 NAPA Gold 1365 Purolator L14612 STP S-02876 WalMart SuperTech ST6607 WIX 51365 Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long. AC Delco PF-2057 Auto Pro 2356 Autopride CF240AP Baldwin B1402 Carquest 85356 Carquest Red B4620 Casite CF240 Castrol 7317 Champion Labs Ph2867 Defense Filters Dl7317 Deutsch D-370 Federated Filters LF240F Fram Double Guard DG7317 Fram PH7317 Automobile Filters, about 3.25 inches long. Fram Tough Guard TG7317 Fram Xtra Guard XG7317 Group 7 V4610 Group 7 V4620 Hastings LF240 Mighty M4612 Millard ML-3593 Motorcraft Long Life FL-821 Napa FIL1356 Napa Gold 1356 Parts Plus PH2867 Pennzoil PZ-109 Penske 7317 Powerflo SL14610 Powerflo SL14620 Pro Gauge PGO-4620 Pro Tec 164 Promotive PH4610 Pronto PO3593A Purolator L14610 Service Champ OF-4622 Shell SH48 Shell SH529 Stp S-02867. Valvoline VO50 Warner PH2867 Wix 51356

I'll take any piece of paper that turns into cash without being attached to my bank account, and release the merchandise after I'm holding the cash.

Cool. Got any guns for sale? Money is no object.

From recollection there's some in the collectors and more in the Y section, did you pull them all? I cut a spare header apart years ago for modding and never got back around to it.

Where did you get them? A glance around the interwebs shows $55 and up at different places.

$40 per 50 vs $7-ish per 100, YIKES. I might try them out when it gets hot again, and double glove with a normal one to try to make them last. I've used XL nitriles over mechanix gloves a few times in cold weather or when working with hot oil.

I received my first one over 20 years ago, craigslist car sale. 'Nobody' knew about the scam back then. My bank said it looked legit, the bank it was made by said it seemed legit, the bank it was funded by said it seemed legit. It wasn't 'till I pressed them on the issue that it was discovered that the check number I was holding had recently cleared for a different amount. Extra retard points for the woman I was talking to: she was loudly speaking in a demeaning tone for questioning the validity of the check, even after she said it had already cleared and for a different amount. Nobody at the bank cared that someone had enough info on this account to write checks that appeared legit, it was in a normal number/timeframe sequence with other checks being run through the account which is what initially made them say it seemed legit.

It doesn't look nearly as bad as the one I took off, but it doesn't inspire any confidence. Hard to say without seeing the inside of the collector and Y, but if I had to bet I'd put my money on a stocker making more average power over the curve, maybe everywhere. If you know of any independent dyno comparisons that would be really interesting to see. If that Y could be cleanly grafted onto a stock header it would probably wake it up a bit, the stocker looks like a bit of a choke point. Removing the screens in the stock header would probably also help some.

I just rechecked and you're right. It must have been some other service I was confusing with Zelle; good to know!

IIRC Zelle can be reversed, but not as easily as Paypal. It has to be reversed through the bank that funded the payment, not directly through Zelle.

I've had two buyers that tried hard to not use cash, both seemed very legit, both went to the bank and got cash. I was 99.9% sure their checks would be good, but wasn't going to chance it.

I've always done cash. There's no way to know if a check is good unless you're in the bank when they draft it. Paypal can easily be reversed. Zelle might be safer, but not entirely. On the one occassion where the buyer didn't want to travel with so much cash (east coast fly-in) we went to the bank together where he pulled cash. If you both have the same bank you could walk in and have it transferred, I would double check with them to be sure, but I think that can't reversed later.

With: https ://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saboted_light_armor_penetrator