superhawk996

If you find that the hose or caliper needs to be replaced, before disconnecting anything find something to hold the brake pedal down about an inch or two. That'll keep the master from draining so you don't have to do a full bleeding which can be a bitch. I usually use something placed between the front of the seat and the pedal, sometimes between the steering wheel and pedal. Once everything's assembled: remove the fill cap, loosen the caliper bleed nipple, and release the pedal. Gravity will push the fluid in and the air out, just don't let the reservoir go empty. You can give the pedal a couple pumps to speed it up, press down then pull it up quickly, if you baby it up it can suck fluid and air back up which will kill the process.

The WD didn't cause it, it just made you aware of an existing problem by adding smell. Or maybe the brake problem coincidentally happened right after the WD was used. Something's sticking: the pins, the piston, or the pads. The likelihood of the culprit is in that order from my So. Cal. experiences. In high rust areas it becomes impossible to predict. Another possibility is the hose, they can degrade internally and become somewhat of a check valve. If you don't find anything physically stuck, replace the hose. There's some possibility that the ABS module, assuming it has ABS, could cause it but I've never heard of that happening.

There's no way he'll admit to his problem nor will he willingly stop this destructive behavior. If we pull together we can solve this problem for him. As his brothers we need to take all the excess vehicles from him. It will take a coordinated effort, many will have to sacrifice their time, energy, or other resources available to them. I will take the lead by offering housing for as many vehicles as y'all can pry from his hands and deliver.

Don't you fret. I'm gonna mark them up 50% and put them up for sale here so you still have a shot at them!

If nobody chimes in with an immediate use/strong desire for them I'll put them in my bulb box to use as needed. I still work on old stuff so they'd eventually find homes.

Lots of minor/easy fix possibilities for the leak, but since they don't have a low oil shutdown the engine is likely fucked.

It threw a rod through the block. Figured I'd be the first to take a stab in the dark.

I think the best Ford Diesel is a properly bulletproofed 6.0. Second best is a 7.3. When the seller says "bulletproofed by professionals" instead of naming the shop I assume it's one of the many half assed bullet proofing jobs. "Everything works as far as I know" is another red flag.

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Is this like some kind of glue to hold the tire to the wheel? I've been looking for something like that and haven't been able to find it. If you have a link or the name of the stuff I'd appreciate it.

The 'right' way is with gauges, I used a piece of wire as a feeler gauge. It ran great & smooth so I never bothered to re-do it the 'right' way. Pretty easy, once the airbox is out of the way. To bad we didn't have this conversation before you re-assembled it.

All bikes are susceptible to having clutch rattle, it doesn't indicate a problem unless it's unusually loud for the particular bike model. My '01 with around 50K miles had obvious noise, not loud, but it was clearly evident. My current '97 with under 30k miles doesn't seem to have it, but it also has a louder exhaust that might be hiding it. And it has an aftermarket cable clutch mechanism, and possibly an aftermarket clutch which might play into it. If the carburetors/throttle bodies are out of synch the power pulses will be uneven which can make for more clutch rattle. My first '97 with about 50k was WAY out of synch, and had a much noisier clutch 'till I synched it. Wear of the clutch basket & plates will increase the rattle.

Clutch rattle can usually be identified by squeezing the lever, the sound will change or go away. Then put it in gear and it should be silent.

The 7.3 will never be as great as a good running 6.0 or 6.4, nor as shitty as a 6.0 or 6.4 that's not running great. All 3 can be problematic, but the 7.3 is kinda like the carbureted small block V-8 comparatively.

They're in the valve cover under small covers that have a hose connecting them to the air box.

Never had a tuner implies he's owned it since new. Probably not since he didn't state that so he really can't know that it's never had a tuner. Not a huge deal, the 7.3 isn't overly sensitive to tunes. There's no way to know if it's had a flash type tuner in the past, but the plug in tuners require cutting the ECU box. It's a black plastic box just forward of the parking brake pedal, if it's cut it'll be fairly obvious. Possibly the worst is if it has a flash because you can't remove it without having that tuner. If it's fairly doggy off the line and then builds power it's probably stock, if it gets up quickly it's tuned. A stocker will have quite a bit more lag than your 6.4 in stock trim. Important questions, and things to check yourself: Does it cold start without issues and is there any smoking hot or cold? Why the new bed? I assume an accident, but maybe just work duty damage. If accident ask/check the frame...you probably already knew that. Other questions: Have the injectors or high pressure oil pump (AKA HPOP) been replaced? It's at about the miles where they might have been, or may need to soon depending on useage and maintenance. What kind of oil and filter do you use? Ideally Motorcraft filter or one of the high end ones, and not Fram or no-name. Most of the diesel rated oils are good enough, but if he's using some generic crap it could be an issue. Has the transmission or torque converter been rebuilt? Kinda like the injectors and HPOP, could be about due or already done. My 2001 Excursion has 429k on what appear to be factory injectors and trans. The #8 injector has been replaced, that one is commonly misdiagnosed as being defective. The HPOP was also replaced, also commonly misdiagnosed, but with the miles it might have been worn out. My injectors are worn out, but I was able to shim them up so that it cold starts despite their wear. Ideally they'd be rebuilt/replaced but I didn't want to spend the time & $. Check the coolant for oiliness, that would indicate oil cooler or injector cups being bad. Cups let fuel in, cooler lets oil in, sometimes it's hard to tell which fluid it is. Check the fuel filter for black fuel, that would indicate injector O rings being bad. With the engine idling pull the oil fill cap to check blow-by, there should be nearly none. One of the common checks is to put the cap on it upside down to see if it tries to blow off or stays. The miles could be just the beginning of its life or the end depending on use and maintenance. I'll PM you my number in case you want to chat while you're there. I'll be on the road in the early morning then in the desert so no guarantees I'll get the call, but leave a message or text and I'll get back when I can. Did your truck crap out or just looking to add a truck with a real engine? 🙂

I've read that the PAIR valves can also rattle at idle/near idle, I think it was specifically said they only do it cold. My '97 has a cold idle rattle that doesn't seem to be clutch related, possibly the PAIR.

In their normal position a small amount of air can remain in the clutch and front brake masters even after a full bleeding. Turn the bars left and lean the bike left so that the handle end is even or slightly higher than the hose end of the master and pump. Do the same to the right for the clutch. Any air will rise into the reservoir. If you do it with the cap off you can see if there was air, but pump slowly, if you squeeze a little too fast it'll shoot a small stream of fluid up that can get all over stuff.

If oil got into the cooling system I expect water/coolant in the oil, draining it should show it. If it's sat with water in the oil there's gonna be some rust in the engine. If it sat a long time it could be fucked.

A pressure test should reveal them, but really small leaks, especially at the head gasket, aren't always revealed. And yea, he said gas/oil flowed out when he pulled the pump so it'll need to be degreased/flushed. There shouldn't be any rust in an all aluminum system like the BB.

The fun/easy/free way is to take the valve core out and go for a spirited ride.

But only if the engine were cranked while there was oil in the cylinder(s) where the gasket is blown. Just sitting, gas could fill the cylinder and flow into the case raising the oil level, but the oil would be unlikely to displace the gas flowing into the cylinder(s) to get through the gasket. Old gas in the cooling system could appear to be an oil/gas mixture. It's likely to be a bit dark on it's own, plus it'll be carrying carbon and probably some residue from the cooling system hoses that it's probably eating away at.

How much and how many miles? Any crash damage or missing/broken parts other than what you mensioned? I ask out of curiosity and to gauge how much you should put into a bike with a potentially fucked motor. Did you crank it or relied on him saying it cranks? Did you get a story about how it wound up in it's current state? Do you have the ability to pull the engine if needed? I would do a compression test to see if the motor needs to come out. Just cranking it and listening to the compression strokes might be enough if you know what to listen for. I'd also do a pressure test on the cooling system. Gas may have filled the engine and raised the oil level, but I don't think there's any way it could get into the cooling system without there being an engine problem; cracked block/head, or blown head gasket. Maybe through the water pump, I don't remember how they're set up. The 'cement' on the radiator cap could be from sealant, an attempt at fixing whatever's wrong with the motor. Or maybe corrosion from using straight water, usually because it's leaking and they didn't want to waste $ on coolant. My guess is it had a coolant leak, overheated, and damaged the motor-but who knows. Some new parts are still available, and plenty of used parts from members here and ebay. Is the airbox missing or damaged? Simple Green is one of the go-to cleaners for oil in cooling systems.

Yea. Retro Encabulators are more likely. Or maybe mechanically actuated flux capacitors.

To take a stab at something actually possible, power steering pump and fuel pump. Being matching pullies implies two of the same thing, but I can't imagine what it would need two of. Maybe fuel pumps, but I assume someone makes one big enough to not need two. Centered right above the grill looks like the camshaft...impressive carnage.