superhawk996

Trippy how the camera angle, and maybe because of the curved spokes, makes the center look like it's off-set towards the right.

When the unit decides that it's needed.

Is it a rubber ring that slips onto the wheel or do you do you have to replace the whole wheel? Reason 857 the cheapo HF bandsaw is superior, plain steel wheels.

Poida and I posted simultaneously. His is better.

I'm shocked at the options in the book. Under the tail near the ECM is a diagnostic wire, you ground it with the key on and the light should flash a fault code to indicate what it sees to be the problem. I don't remember if the codes are in the book, I think I googled mine.

I got curious so I looked, here's a sample of what I was thinking of, and didn't even know they offered an adjustable one. https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-3F05-1-Adjustable-Snap-Control/dp/B000PY7T7I/ref=sr_1_4?crid=19VYRDE0A5LY7&keywords=rv+heater+thermo+switch&qid=1642565856&sprefix=rv+heater+thermoswitch%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-4

I thought for sure that automagically was my made up word, but when the spell checker didn't give me the stink eye I had to look it up. It's actually a real word.

You can get relays with timers and just set it for however much after-run you want. They're available with different amounts of adjustability from micro seconds to minutes, maybe hours. I haven't paid a lot of attention to details, but I know they exist. There's also small thermoswitches you could use that are available in different temperatures. The ones I'm thinking of are about the size of a quarter but thicker. I don't know what they're called. If you look up RV heater parts you'll likely see what I'm thinking of. They're used specifically for what you want, after-run of the fan to cool the unit after the fire has gone out. One of those in the right temp would turn the fan on and off with temperature, all automagically. The amperage rating is pretty small so it would need a relay to the fan.

Any size unit will help. What exactly about the condensation worries you?

Assuming the SMC is fed from the rear master, before disassembly use something to hold the brake pedal part way down. This will keep the master and line from draining. Something else you can do before opening lines is to pump the SMC pushing the caliper piston out, but not all the way out of the caliper of course. This will give you a reserve of fluid in the caliper that you might be able to use to back-bleed the SMC by squeezing the piston in. Just some thoughts, I've never opened the system and don't know exactly how it works.

Probably not. If there's air in the system maybe, but for just changing the fluid it shouldn't matter.

I've never used speed bleeders and not sure if I've ever bled a linked Bird. My usual for bleeding is gravity, sometimes I'll use a vacuum pump.

Cool, eliminates that possibility. I've met a few Birds that were parked a lot and never had the carbs clog up, don't know why. Maybe it's that great California gas we have.

Linked brakes bother me because they're doing stuff I'm not asking for, but the shit works so I'm ok with my linked brakes.

My gut's telling me that the problem might be the petcock and not the carbs. Fill them through the hose now that the tank is off and see if it runs.

No need to change masters.

Sometimes you can clear out the jets by spraying through the air jet so you don't have to take the bowls off. When you look into the carb's air inlet you should have two air jets facing you, I think the larger one is for the idle jet. If you haven't taken everything apart yet you can give that a shot and see if it runs.

Ahhh. Yea, I've done it on some stuff. It's not something I'd think about with a BB spark plug since it would take effort to cross thread it.

?

Do you really foresee changing a plug on the road?

They're discontinued but still widely available. That said, I'd go with the iridiums anyway.

Those are the 'right' things to do, but they seem to be unnecessary. Mine sits outside and has seen 30 degrees to well over 100 with E-10 and no prep. It's been a few months so I decided to fire it up. It took just over 10 seconds for the first little sputters to start happening, then at about 15 it briefly started and stopped. It did that a couple more times then stayed running but very rough. A few seconds later it cleared up.

Giving it a maintenance makeover never hurts, but might not cure the problem depending on what it is. Mine sits for months at a time outside and so far it's been fine. Fuel only flows from the tank while the engine is cranking or running. It'll usually take several seconds of cranking for the carbs to get enough fuel that it'll start, and quite often it'll take a couple more cranks/stalls before it stays running. If after 4-5 stalls it still won't stay running then something's wrong, before that it means nothing.

Is this with the choke on? How long was it parked?

You probably just need to clean the jets. At most you'd need new bowl gaskets, but they often re-seal just fine.