superhawk996

Put me #2 in line please.

I don't think so.

I had a brief opportunity to score a very similar gem, probably in better condition, for only $6k. By the time I figured out where to get the $, a few hours, it was gone.

I don't recall reading that you synched the carbs, make sure you do that before playing with the fuel screws. And maybe doing it again afterwords if you find the fuel adjustments out of whack. Actually, I'd leave the manometer on while doing the fuel adjustments, then you'd see if any change. I'm guessing they wouldn't change unless the mixture was pretty far off.

Also-fuel pumps, and motors in general, can do goofy shit where they'll work/not work for no obvious reasons. Not common, but I've run into it a few times. I recently had an Explorer with an intermittently dead pump that I was almost certain couldn't be the pump, but everything else checked out so the customer decided to take the gamble and have me replace it. Been trouble free for many months.

In the beginning wiggling the wires or connector at the pump made it work so it seems like the problem is in that area. Wires in the run are very unlikely to have a problem without external signs of damage. The most likely issue would be at the connector. Next on the list would be the connection between the terminals and the pump itself. I don't know how they're attached on the Bird, but a rivet type connection is pretty common and they can get loose & corroded/burnt.

If the bike still cranked with the bad battery but the fuel pump wouldn't run, the battery wasn't the cause of the fuel pump issue. A new battery might make the fuel pump run because the extra power could overcome whatever the actual problem is, but it's not the solution.

Were the pins stuck/hard to move? If not, keep checking the temp on it when you drive.

If you find that the hose or caliper needs to be replaced, before disconnecting anything find something to hold the brake pedal down about an inch or two. That'll keep the master from draining so you don't have to do a full bleeding which can be a bitch. I usually use something placed between the front of the seat and the pedal, sometimes between the steering wheel and pedal. Once everything's assembled: remove the fill cap, loosen the caliper bleed nipple, and release the pedal. Gravity will push the fluid in and the air out, just don't let the reservoir go empty. You can give the pedal a couple pumps to speed it up, press down then pull it up quickly, if you baby it up it can suck fluid and air back up which will kill the process.

The WD didn't cause it, it just made you aware of an existing problem by adding smell. Or maybe the brake problem coincidentally happened right after the WD was used. Something's sticking: the pins, the piston, or the pads. The likelihood of the culprit is in that order from my So. Cal. experiences. In high rust areas it becomes impossible to predict. Another possibility is the hose, they can degrade internally and become somewhat of a check valve. If you don't find anything physically stuck, replace the hose. There's some possibility that the ABS module, assuming it has ABS, could cause it but I've never heard of that happening.

There's no way he'll admit to his problem nor will he willingly stop this destructive behavior. If we pull together we can solve this problem for him. As his brothers we need to take all the excess vehicles from him. It will take a coordinated effort, many will have to sacrifice their time, energy, or other resources available to them. I will take the lead by offering housing for as many vehicles as y'all can pry from his hands and deliver.

Don't you fret. I'm gonna mark them up 50% and put them up for sale here so you still have a shot at them!

If nobody chimes in with an immediate use/strong desire for them I'll put them in my bulb box to use as needed. I still work on old stuff so they'd eventually find homes.

Lots of minor/easy fix possibilities for the leak, but since they don't have a low oil shutdown the engine is likely fucked.

It threw a rod through the block. Figured I'd be the first to take a stab in the dark.

I think the best Ford Diesel is a properly bulletproofed 6.0. Second best is a 7.3. When the seller says "bulletproofed by professionals" instead of naming the shop I assume it's one of the many half assed bullet proofing jobs. "Everything works as far as I know" is another red flag.

🤣🤣

Is this like some kind of glue to hold the tire to the wheel? I've been looking for something like that and haven't been able to find it. If you have a link or the name of the stuff I'd appreciate it.

The 'right' way is with gauges, I used a piece of wire as a feeler gauge. It ran great & smooth so I never bothered to re-do it the 'right' way. Pretty easy, once the airbox is out of the way. To bad we didn't have this conversation before you re-assembled it.

All bikes are susceptible to having clutch rattle, it doesn't indicate a problem unless it's unusually loud for the particular bike model. My '01 with around 50K miles had obvious noise, not loud, but it was clearly evident. My current '97 with under 30k miles doesn't seem to have it, but it also has a louder exhaust that might be hiding it. And it has an aftermarket cable clutch mechanism, and possibly an aftermarket clutch which might play into it. If the carburetors/throttle bodies are out of synch the power pulses will be uneven which can make for more clutch rattle. My first '97 with about 50k was WAY out of synch, and had a much noisier clutch 'till I synched it. Wear of the clutch basket & plates will increase the rattle.

Clutch rattle can usually be identified by squeezing the lever, the sound will change or go away. Then put it in gear and it should be silent.

The 7.3 will never be as great as a good running 6.0 or 6.4, nor as shitty as a 6.0 or 6.4 that's not running great. All 3 can be problematic, but the 7.3 is kinda like the carbureted small block V-8 comparatively.

They're in the valve cover under small covers that have a hose connecting them to the air box.

Never had a tuner implies he's owned it since new. Probably not since he didn't state that so he really can't know that it's never had a tuner. Not a huge deal, the 7.3 isn't overly sensitive to tunes. There's no way to know if it's had a flash type tuner in the past, but the plug in tuners require cutting the ECU box. It's a black plastic box just forward of the parking brake pedal, if it's cut it'll be fairly obvious. Possibly the worst is if it has a flash because you can't remove it without having that tuner. If it's fairly doggy off the line and then builds power it's probably stock, if it gets up quickly it's tuned. A stocker will have quite a bit more lag than your 6.4 in stock trim. Important questions, and things to check yourself: Does it cold start without issues and is there any smoking hot or cold? Why the new bed? I assume an accident, but maybe just work duty damage. If accident ask/check the frame...you probably already knew that. Other questions: Have the injectors or high pressure oil pump (AKA HPOP) been replaced? It's at about the miles where they might have been, or may need to soon depending on useage and maintenance. What kind of oil and filter do you use? Ideally Motorcraft filter or one of the high end ones, and not Fram or no-name. Most of the diesel rated oils are good enough, but if he's using some generic crap it could be an issue. Has the transmission or torque converter been rebuilt? Kinda like the injectors and HPOP, could be about due or already done. My 2001 Excursion has 429k on what appear to be factory injectors and trans. The #8 injector has been replaced, that one is commonly misdiagnosed as being defective. The HPOP was also replaced, also commonly misdiagnosed, but with the miles it might have been worn out. My injectors are worn out, but I was able to shim them up so that it cold starts despite their wear. Ideally they'd be rebuilt/replaced but I didn't want to spend the time & $. Check the coolant for oiliness, that would indicate oil cooler or injector cups being bad. Cups let fuel in, cooler lets oil in, sometimes it's hard to tell which fluid it is. Check the fuel filter for black fuel, that would indicate injector O rings being bad. With the engine idling pull the oil fill cap to check blow-by, there should be nearly none. One of the common checks is to put the cap on it upside down to see if it tries to blow off or stays. The miles could be just the beginning of its life or the end depending on use and maintenance. I'll PM you my number in case you want to chat while you're there. I'll be on the road in the early morning then in the desert so no guarantees I'll get the call, but leave a message or text and I'll get back when I can. Did your truck crap out or just looking to add a truck with a real engine? 🙂