superhawk996

You were looking at the wong ting.

Modern gas seems to create fewer problems, but I might just be thinking that because there are fewer carburetors in the world now. While ethanol presents its own problems, it's cleaner than gasoline. When I bought the Banshee I knew it had been parked with gas and the valve open for several years, it had all evaporated through the carbs and I thought they were gonna be a bitch to clean. Race gas and oil, it was just a soft thick goo kinda like a light grease and it came off easily.

Getting the fuel below jet level generally solves the problem. With one exception, I've never had something that I ran dry that still had a problem, none of my friends have either. I've been lucky with the Bird, I've done nothing and so far it's been fine. My Superhawk didn't fair as well. Just shutting off the fuel, which the Bird does automatically, helps vs. leaving the fuel open. Tom's is the first Bird I've heard of that clogged up, I don't know if there's something special about Birds or if it's just been luck. The one exception was with my latest lawnmower. It was clogged up when I got it, I cleaned it, ran it dry, parked it. A few weeks later it was clogged so I cleaned it again, mowed the yard, then ran it dry. A few weeks later it was fine. My guess is that there was something left somewhere on the first cleaning, maybe if I had mowed or ran it longer it would have been ok. The yard needs mowing again so I'll find out soon if it's still ok, if not it's probably getting sold, that carb is a bitch compared to most mowers.

It sounds like this E free can of gas is going to sit around a lot, that could be worse than doing nothing depending on what you buy and how it's stored. If it's race gas in the factory can then you should be good, they last a long time even after breaking the seal. If it's pump gas going into a gas can I'd be leery. Seems like it would be less effort to drain it than to try to do what you plan, and it's more of a guarantee of no issues.

My only fear would be resistance, and the things that can manifest from that, at the connection. I might separate the strands and shine them all up if the blackening wasn't just on the surface.

I like woods that don't change size/shape with humidity and can be bent, stretched, hammer shaped, welded.... Some people call those species of wood 'metal'.

I too was thinking that a little slop shouldn't be a problem, but you bring up a good point. I remember reading that aftermarket cams for the SH required aftermarket or modified pistons so it's likely that there is less room for error.

I was guessing that a good glue would break some woods before the bond broke.

So let the potatoes cool, reheat them for the steak & potato dinner, throw down a vinegar chaser and all's good. 🙂

I learned that the internet accepted test for a capacitor using an ohm meter isn't foolproof. It passed the test but I still had my doubts. I then tested one of the blue ones and it appeared to have more capacitance despite being less than half the rating of the little black one; 470 vs 1000. I put in one 470 and the fridge fired up. I put the second on as a feel good of being close to the original rating. I think the huge size difference is because of the higher voltage rating of the blues, 100v. vs. 16v. Maybe they use different guts as well.

The toughest part of throwing some stupid old thing away is knowing that you'll need it within a week. I sorta hate my clutter/hoarding, but building a trailer hitch last week without a single run for metal, hardware, or tools was nice. Fixing the wine fridge last night wouldn't have happened if I didn't have a pile of electronic parts. I might not have bothered to pull the board out if I didn't feel I had a reasonable chance of having whatever part it needed on hand. While I didn't have the right capacitor, I had two that were up to the task when paired up. You can't even tell that it was worked on by a hack 😁

How'd the valves get bent?

I don't see melted. The pock marks look like impacts from something that got in there, if the head has matching marks then it's likely what happened.

In the photo it looked like a vehicle laying on its side, but now I see that it's two vehicles that are upright.

I have a 3 piece set of HF's Drill Master and they've done pretty well. The Dewalt is impressive, but my go-to drill motor is a Milwaukee so they're probably incompatible.

That title is exceptionally fucked up if it's a 200. If it's a 125 then it was just a simple typo.

The vehicle napping to the right of center; is that an ambulance?

And I guess booze is currency too.

Somewhere I heard that today a guy sold a brick of cheapo .22LR for $100 and 30 rounds of 30-30 reloads for $50. I He wasn't even trying to sell it, the guy damn near begged to buy it. Last week that same guy traded some 9mm reloads for a bottle of Blantan's. Turns out, ammo is currency, even pre-apocalypse.

Two of my friends split a case a few months back at $1/rnd. Neither has been out shooting yet, but they just had to have it.

My recollection is that the valve moves vertically in a channel in the exhaust port and can't make contact with the piston. I guess if a valve broke then pieces could go into the cylinder/piston, but I never heard of that happening.

I don't know these, but spent a fair bit of time playing with SeaDoos with the 800 Rave motor. By all accounts, it's a great motor. Damn near everyone says to run only the factory branded oil, or some other 'super premium' oil, crappy oil will gum up the Rave valve. I would possibly run Yamaha Ring Free in it also, it seems to do wonders on keeping things clean. A stuck or broken Rave could upset the air/fuel ratio and if it's already borderline it could push it over the edge.

With spray paints I used to see gloss, semi-gloss, and flat. Lately I've been seeing semi-flat a lot. Some say it's the same as semi-gloss, others say it's not. I recently bought some flat and semi and both seem to be more glossy than they should be. IDK if it's the brand or because it's that new fangled paint/primer all it one.

I probably still have a set of RD125 carbs. In theory they'll give you better MPG 🙂

Wrong kit.