superhawk996

With 20 forward gears I expect at least 3 reverse. Maybe they ran out of ink.

Thank you! I saw it right after he posted it and was tempted, I hoped someone else would fix that for me.

My guess would be to install it with the engine running at a known RPM so you can install the needle in the right position. I did that on a car tach. It's possible that you pushed it too far in and it's dragging/sticking or maybe pushing on the shaft damaged it. I assume it's a stepper motor, I don't know exactly how they work, but you could google it if you want. I don't know that knowing how it works will help much.

I changed the clutch oil on one of my bikes so it can be a thing. Well, Harley calls it 'primary drive oil', but it's mostly for the clutch so it could be referred to as clutch oil. In a playful argument with a Harley guy, before I owned one, he said Harley's system is smarter because it uses 3 separate oils for the engine, transmission, and clutch so they can each be tailored to do one job and they don't contaminate each other. Yea, but all 3 are the same kind of oil so it's still compromise oil, and my bike filters all of them unlike yours which only filters the engine oil. Now, grab us a couple beers and lets discuss your bike's ingenious self-draining oil system, mine do lack that advanced feature.

I assume you mean the clutch fluid, as in the brake fluid for the clutch hydraulics?

Good thing you have the red key so you can program copies to keep the bags running.

Curious, what's the story behind your name?

I always start with recent repairs and modified stuff. I had one just a couple hours ago, Jeep LJ tailgate that wouldn't open. They incorrectly installed a flag pole receiver to the hinges and very effectively bolted the tailgate shut. He was sure it couldn't be that, 'till we removed it.

My first thought was the check connector, the "loom fix" as fizzy stated. The problem is most prevalent on '99 and '00 models, but also happens to newer ones. Aftermarket lights and dead lights won't cause a fault code. As for the dual MAP question, if it has one in the tail it's most likely a barometric pressure sensor.

Now I went ahead and watched it. Good info and well made as usual, and good to know that the starter by-pass will work and let you get back on the road.

I didn't watch it so I can't specifically comment, but this guy knows Fords so it might help.

Any particular reason for wanting super low miles?

Now that it's greaseable the hole doesn't matter, it's only a big deal for sealed joints. Greasable joints are never sealed, they just have a 'dust boot' which is likely to be less protective than a sealed boot with a hole. As for the EGT, just because you only saw the reading change when going over bumps doesn't mean that it's not the cause of the shut-downs at idle. If you can catch a shut down while looking at the numbers then you could probably determine if it is or isn't the cause. This is why I suggested doing a wiggle test early on, it should let you find the source of the problem.

On my 7.3 IDI van I used a towel, much more convenient than a piece of cardboard. With the engine running the fan will suck the towel onto the grill, then find a crack along the top somewhere to tuck it into so it stays when you shut the engine off. I assumed it was a problem with my thermostat not closing, but maybe not. Getting to it was a bitch so I put one in the hose right at the top of the thermostat housing as a test, nothing changed. While it seems retarded that there's enough bypass flow to keep the engine from warming up in So. Cal. cold, that seems to be what was happening. The ambulance, same engine but 3 years newer, also takes forever, maybe a little less. Not sure if the system changed or I'm just imagining that it's a little better.

Nice to know! The first two reviews are from people using it for motorcycle carb parts, then another a few down from that. Along with a warning to not let them soak too long as they'll swell up.

Exactly what I was thinking. Also make sure you've loosened the clamps enough. Not just released tension, they need to be able to let the boots expand to get over the ridge they're sitting in. If the bike will still start you could run the engine for a while to get some heat in the boots.

If it gets there 😇

I knew the SV was a ramp, and that would be a bitch to unload without the proper tools, that's why I felt the need to speak of the adjuster on the BB shock. I don't know if the BB adjuster will unload the spring, but it's safe to try. If you get to the end of the threads and it's still tight, stop and hand it off to a shop. Or aim it at someone you don't like as you turn the adjuster off the last thread. 😆

I don't remember if I've done it on the stock shock, I did on my Penske BB shock. If spinning the preload adjuster out will take the pressure off the spring, which I think it will, it's totally safe.

With forscan running to see live data wiggle the wires and sensors looking for a change. Go through as much as you can from sensor to computer. Wiggle/tap on the sensors too. If they ground through the pipe I'd start by wiggling the pipe since that would make all of their signals go nutty which could explain not getting a specific sensor code. I assume the only ground point is the flange at the turbo so if it's loose or cracked maybe that's it. If nothing pans out from the wiggle test you might just have to keep the computer in the truck full time 'till it shits and hope to see which one is showing a bad temp. I think an out of range signal should only de-rate the motor, possibly by shutting off some cylinders, and not kill it while driving. I could see a cylinder cut killing it at idle but maybe it wouldn't leave you fucked on the highway as you fear; has it ever shut off while driving or only at idle? When it dies does it let you re-start right away or do you have to let it cool?

And; what brand/model exhaust system?

From the little I know: P0200 is an injector circuit code. EGT codes would be P20xx, last two digits indicating which sensor and the specific problem it's having. I'm guessing problem in FICM, bad connection, chafed wire, injector starting to go. Did you typo on the code, mistake your injector code as being an EGT code, or I don't know WTF I'm talking about?

Put it in that piss poor excuse for a trunk Honda installed on the caruck and send them this way before they both succumb to your abusive storage practices.

Is forscan kinda like using TorquePro? I've read of forscan, but haven't used it.

I prefer using grease. They slide right on, they're easy to position just right, and easy to remove. Also cuts down on wheelie tickets.