superhawk996

Somewhere between 5 seconds and 500 years. There's really no way to say, but if yours is factory it is absolutely suspect. This is a thing that seems somewhat particular to 'Birds, but it happens to all vehicles. Any excess gas is bad since it washes the oil off the walls/rings/pistons and dilutes the oil with something that doesn't lubricate for shit so everything suffers to some extent. The quick catastrophic potential is a hydrolock on startup which will possibly bend a rod and could break a piston.

You don't wanna fuck it off. The gas all goes to #3 cylinder and can lead to a really bad time.

Nah, it'd be easy. I could dump all my tools and just carry around my cutting torch and welder. Bolts are stupid.

Tighten the bleeders and push the caliper pistons in. If they won't go the rear master piston probably isn't retracting all the way. If they do push in re-try the bleeding and it should go.

Take the cap off the rear fluid reservoir, that should let it flow. Beware that if you get air into the linked part of the system it'll probably be a bitch to get out, be cautious about which bleeders you open and what you do.

The front will only activate the rear if there's rolling pressure, just squeezing the handle does nothing. The front caliper has to be pushed in the direction of wheel rotation actuating the small 'master cylinder" it's attached to. What do you mean by "can't remove the fluid"?

Chance of flipping over? 1 yard.

I finally watched the video and he touches on the subject, sorta. Near the end where the mom and babies are being shown in infrared.

I haven't even had the Harley a whole 2 years yet and I've already racked up 46 miles! Today will be the 3rd or 4th time I clean it up for the sale photos, hopefully I'll stick to it this time.

How would brake fluid get from the caliper to the fairing while sitting still, and only start leaking after the engine warmed up? And if it was brake fluid I'd expect the paint to be pretty well fucked by now. Brake fluid won't chip paint, it basically melts it and/or makes it bubble up. And the reservoir that's a little low is the clutch, not the brake. If the front brake had lost that much fluid I think the reservoir would be empty by now...tho it could be from the rear reservoir through the linked system so see if that's low.

When I Lincoln locked my '69 Jeep differential I failed to add the cock reinforcement, I was just plain lucky that it held up.

Yes, I was thinking of a different brand's list, you're correct that 4.25 will cover some lifts. It's still incorrect to say "all he needs is 4.25". Especially when there are requirements beyond the thickness. And with that I'm done poluting Joe's thread, it's pointless now since his slab is done.

Metals too; brass, aluminum, and steel.

You said that an existing floor only needs to be 4.25+. The lowest requirement for an existing floor is 4.5" and it goes up to 8", all depending on which model lift is being installed. So again, show me where it says that 4.25+ is all that's needed.

You should be able to find angles where you can see the hoses where they connect to the radiator, a mirror and flashlight might do it. Other things to look at: cap, hose to the reservoir, temp switch. If none of those are leaking then it's probably the radiator. Only 3 years old, it should be fine....but being Chinesium, 3 minutes old can sometimes be too much. The dark spot on the radiator is suspicious, but it's far from a tell tale so try to get in there and look at everything. Temperature is rarely the cause, but the pressure that happens as a result of temperature will often increase a leak. With hose connection leaks I usually find them to be more leak prone when cold, but sometimes they'll only leak when pressurized. I'll throw my guess in the bag-radiator cap.

Where in that link does it show that an "entire slab" can be thinner than the stated minimum requirement of a particular lift? As far as a cut and pour pad, they show much higher requirements because they're allowing for a very small slabs.

Where does Bendpak, or any other manufacturer, show different concrete requirements for "entire slab" vs. a cut and pour pad?

To be safe you'd have to pour it to spec for at least the length/width of the entire lift, realistically you could probably do it smaller. When you have a couple tons over your head how much comfort will you have knowing that it all hangs in the balance of your guestimate?

Mine was a Rotary alignment lift with a trolley and all the alignment gear. I knew going in that I might not be able to use it, but it was so cheap I wasn't going to say no even if I knew I couldn't use it. It was $500, or maybe less. I bought a bunch of stuff at the same time and they threw in some freebies so I don't remember for sure what I paid for it. The only reason I wished it was a 4 post is because I could have used it without pouring a slab for it. I considered modding the 2 post to eliminate the need for concrete, but other things pushed me toward selling it. If one already has an adequate slab, or isn't opposed to pouring one, a 2 post is better. I don't recall what the concrete requirement was for mine, but it was considerably more than what a standard driveway or home garage would have.

I like the idea of a drive-on lift with a trolley jack...or maybe two trollies if money allows. It's fast and easy to get on it and many things one does doesn't require the wheels to be unloaded, and for some things the wheels need to be loaded. I had one but didn't have a place to put it so it got sold. Had it been a 4 post instead of 2 it would probably be in use today.

Was yours leaking?

Shit, I misread the voltages and thought I saw that you were getting 4.4. .44 is way off and if the sensors work as I think they do, that would cause a super rich mixture. Verify that you're testing correctly and try testing at the ecu to know if it's the ecu or a wiring problem causing the low voltage.

First thing I'd check is the fuel pressure regulator, pull the hose off and see if there's gas in it. The 4.5-5.5 is probably with the engine running so if you're checking with the engine off that would explain it. Even if you're checking correctly, I doubt that being .1v below the minimum spec would cause that much of a problem. If either of those sensors is reporting super low it would make it run rich and unless it's a totally open circuit the computer probably would't know that it's faulty. Low voltage to the sensors would probably make it run rich, but I don't think .1 is enough to make such a dramatic difference. If your bike has an O2 sensor that 'should' correct a rich mixture, and if it's faulty it could cause the rich mixture. I'd avoid riding it 'till the problem is corrected.

All of my vehicles are unlocked and have the keys in the ignition.

My assumption is $. Jorge has a couple quads and from conversation I think they're fairly low dollar.