superhawk996

No tips for not getting a junky one, but for the relatively short haul and light load I wouldn't sweat it. They have utility trailers with drop down tailgates/ramps, but might be too short to get a decent angle where the bike doesn't bottom out half way up. See if he has a spot where you can park with the truck's rear tires high, a driveway ramp usually works, or bring ramps/blocks to drive your rear tires onto so that the whole trailer is tilted down making the ramp to trailer bed more level. Or the floor jack and lift at the hitch.

I'd cruise that.

There's the hassle of having to fiddle with the choke, and when it sits a long time it takes a while of cranking to re-prime the carbs, but the system hasn't let me down. Upsides, you won't have a FPR or harness test connector failure.

1" wide bicycle tires of the hardest compound available so he can't go fast.

If you call me wetback or redneck, I'm good with it. What's the Cuban National Anthem? Row, row, row your boat

So Mike, the true answer to your question is-take it to a shop when you need tires.

If it ain't leaking it's empty!

On my quest for an alternator rotor: I ordered one, then was messaged saying they couldn't find it. The same seller had another one in a different listing with much higher mileage which I didn't like, but I ordered it anyway. Right after that I found another person selling a "NOS" rotor for not much more so I cancelled the second and ordered the NOS. When I took the protective sleeve off the slip rings it was obviously used, but very little so I was gonna let it go, but the measured resistance is double of spec., 7 ohms and it should be 3.5. I messaged them and they refunded me. He had bought out a dealership's entire stock, saw this was still in the box and assumed it was new. My guess is that someone installed it then realized it was defective and it was never returned to the supplier. I'll probably install it and see what it does. In theory it should do something which should let me know if the rest of the system works before I hunt down another rotor.

The carbs should clean up pretty easily as long as they're not corroded. Hook up a battery and fire that bitch up! You had said something about your carbs not being stock; what's on it and is there a reason to swap back other than originality? If it's not some kind of hack job swap just run with them.

I was thinking that if it had sat all this time you could have gotten a large concentration of settled metals in the sample throwing it off, but if you mixed it all up that shouldn't be the case. Unless you want to do a tear down I'd wait. Run it, see how it sounds, then send in another sample. If there's no bad sounds from it I doubt you could hurt it by running it and that would let you get more data before getting further into the project.

Did you run the engine before draining? Also, at what point during draining did you pull the sample; right after plug out, around half way drained, near end of drain?

Cost of equipment: Somewhere between $10 and $20k. Depends on the tires and wheels, how fast/easy you want it to be, how fast/easy you want the balancing to be, how safe you want it to be (for yourself as well as the wheel/tire).

You need different eyes. They're all stronger than chicken wire, and they're all better options than the drilled pipe you installed. They'll all flow a fuck ton better than what you installed so they'll have a fuck ton less stress to deal with. Hardware cloth is the weakest of the things I mentioned, if there will be rocks flowing rapidly with the water it might not hold up, but will likely do better than the drilled piece of metal you installed due to it's ability to let the water through. Expanded metal is probably your best option; it's cheap, strong, easy to find, easy to cut, and soft enough to shape easily. There are lots of options on hole size so you can choose the rock size you're willing to let through. Perforated sheet ranges from being about as flimsy as what you installed all the way to shit you couldn't bend or cut without machinery.

107/9.27 on wifi. Probably faster if I plug in.

Or expanded metal, perforated tubing, perforated metal sheet, hardware cloth...

He wants it sent to his Hacienda Heights address, along with a pre-paid subscription to whatever's needed to make it work. 🙂

I don't think so, but don't know. AFAIK that style trans is aimed only at the drag racing world. I think it's the same or similar as used in pro-stock cars, but this car has a traditional shifter instead of individual levers.

I got to drive a buddy's car that had a 'liberty shift' manual trans, no clutching or lifting the throttle, just slam the next gear at WOT when the shift light came on. It felt wrong to do, but worked great.

I left the Excursion at the Ford service department overnight about a week ago....we're all fucked.

Loose meaning it unthreaded all the way, or loose meaning it broke loose and then won't turn further? If it unscrewed all the way and just won't come out of the hole, magnet, or long thin pliers.

And if you're good at it it's probably still quicker than a 'normal' automatic transmission, DCT is a different story and probably can't be beat by anyone shifting manually.

I got to do it in school way back, it was fun. In many ways it's very simple, and many of them have 'secrets' where you could successfully rebuild it to work, or rebuild it to work really well for a really long time. Almost all of them require some level of specialty tools. The worst part might be the fact that you won't know if it works 'till it's back in the car. I have a pretty solid understanding of how they work and have repaired several, but I generally won't go any further in than the valve body. If you're at all interested, I still have the manuals from my auto tranny class you can have. Not the same as doing it, but they do show the full procedures. IIRC it's two fairly thin manuals, the classroom one and the shop manual, shouldn't cost much to ship. They're probably littered with my ignorant scribbles professional notes. I took the class around 1988-90 so there won't be any later stuff in the manuals.

If it could be connected there's a good chance of smoke, but I think the connectors are different.

"Fits '97-'03" So if I put that into my '97 it becomes EFI and I no longer have to use the choke?!? I'm buying!!!!

I can't imagine any way that it could.