superhawk996

If they're getting paid it's not a waste of their time. A car audio shop is probably a better option, most of them make custom stuff using plastic and fiberglass. As for clearance, look up the suspension travel specs and measure the current clearance.

And fake Motorcraft parts.

I had a K&N and Yosh full system on my '01 with no tuning and didn't detect anything wrong, and it pulled noticeably harder than with the stock exhaust from about 5K up. Do you have a photo of your header? I pulled the header off Cecome's bike (previously it was on another member's super farkled whitebird, CBRbear maybe?) It was supposedly an early model Delkevic and that POS was killing his power.

You have your formula, I have mine.

yack jizz.

I hadn't thought of it before, but yea, I kinda see that now, even in my 3D memory of it. It's metallic and pearl. I think one or the other, or maybe the combination, makes it not reflect shine the same way that a normal white would. I've looked at Lambos factory painted in this color and altho I never got to put the bike next to one to compare in detail, I don't recall seeing an obvious difference. The closest I had was riding next to one briefly.

All of the above, but the guy fucked up and it came out shiny and perfect in most areas.

A couple more angles. Photos, especially my shitty indoor ones, don't do it justice. 3D with natural lighting it's spectacular.

Shit, I brain farted and forgot that they're gear driven, thanks for fixing my fuck-up.

I wonder if maybe your balance shafts are a little out of synch and the extra pressure of manually manipulating the CCT brings them closer to synch enough to mask it. I've read the procedure on checking/adjusting them and from memory it wasn't a tough job. A few people have said that doing it made a noticeable difference in vibration even tho they didn't have a vibration complaint.

My guess is that they revised the part in '01, but AFAIK they're all interchangeable. John will know, and can probably supply the latest one for less than the price you found.

"Not a real biker." You know the best part about having an unsafe unreliable uncomfortable POS bike? Short parts runs feel adventurous, and no worry about speeding tickets. I had this thought yesterday after I dusted off the Harley to do my errands on. I kinda sorta love that piece of shit. I only did around 20 miles, 2-6 miles at a time, and it was enough. I dig the low crappy idle, thathump thathump burpthump stumblethump...I'm amazed that it never stalls, and that nothing noticeable has vibrated off during my ownership.

Fast ride? More like casual cruise.

If the Bird rotor holes are on a smaller circle than the holes in the wheel, like where the green dots are in that photo, I see no way for the adapter to work. If the wheel had a smaller circle than the rotors then maybe, but unlikely. I think the rotors center on the wheel and not on the screws, kinda like car wheels that are hub-centric vs. lug-centric. If the holes in the rotors and the screws are tapered then the rotors are centering by the screws, if they're flat like I think they are they're relying on the machined 'pads' in the wheel for centering.

I dig the clutch window.

I don't entirely understand what you're trying to say/ask. The length of a bolt when using a nut doesn't matter other than being long enough to fully engage the nut. The length of the factory screws going into the wheel are overkill, but I don't know how to calculate a minimum safe length. I also don't see how the length of them would matter for using an adapter like the one you showed.

Is this with the stock valving? And is the oil recommendation based on rider weight or just an across the board recommendation for Birds?

I expected no answer, since there isn't one, but your doubling down on stupidity was pretty creative. 🤣

Classic Tom attack. I stated early on that the effect would be minimal unless the oil level was extremely off. Still waiting for your explanation on how air gets below the oil to get out of the seal.

I'm sure the factory size and style can be bought in stainless, and probably in a few grades of stainless. Maybe not from a bike parts place or by application, but knowing what you need it should be pretty easy to find them made of many different materials. And you can get aftermarket covers with SS screws also, Carlos did.

😆

I hope the factory KTM oil is air resistant otherwise they'll be deflated in no time. Using air pressure might not be ideal, or could be in some conditions.

That's pretty cool, thanks. I might make something like that that hangs over a door so I don't have to commit to drilling holes.

Yea, Carlos and I had a lengthy discussion trying to figure out how air drives itself down through oil to get to the seal while the bike is parked. After agonizingly long seconds of trying and getting nowhere we conceded that The Professional is way smarter than us.

I haven't sold in a while. Are you still selling stuff and able to collect without giving your SS#? I initially heard that it was just for sellers selling over XX amount because they'd be getting a 1099, but don't know.