superhawk996

A customer's '67 Vette, all original with a 327 and 4 speed. It's a low mileage weekend toy. It initially had a bit of a hiccup under acceleration and got worse somewhat quickly to where he was barely able to keep it running to get it home. He thought it was a fuel problem, but doesn't really know much about cars. Spark was cutting out in a strange way. It wasn't a normal misfire/rough running issue, it was as if there was an off button that was being sporadically pressed. Spark would go out briefly or long enough to stall the engine from high RPM. It was also off and on during cranking, sometimes staying off for several seconds. The points were a little out of adjustment and had mild pitting so I gave them a quick clean and set the dwell, no change. Coil power, distributor ground, all connections, and dwell stayed consistent even during spark out events so I figured it must be something going on in the coil. New coil, no change. At one point I found that with the points open the circuit wasn't open, there was around 100ohms across what should have been an open circuit. I pulled the points out, couldn't find anything wrong, reinstalled, verified they gave an open circuit, still no change. Last resort before telling him to tow it to a shop, I replaced the points and it runs like new.

Shit's not that simple. It has to be German carpet and color matched to the bike, on both sides.

You clearly don't understand how things work. You don't need "an appreciable measure of tension", it just needs to keep the wheel in the channel. Wrapping the strap around the bottom of the wheel would accomplish that with 0 tension, and even with some slack in the strap, the only reason I didn't suggest it way earlier is because I knew you'd worry about marring the wheel. Your setup will provide some lateral stability from the left side and near 0 from the right...which equals a pull toward the left. It will be trying to pull the top of the tire toward the left, how much you tighten it will determine how much pull. Since you want "an appreciable measure of tension" you'll also have an "appreciable" amount of force pulling left. If you still don't get it: Visualize the center point on the trailer between the two anchor points you installed, it's going to be on the left side walkway, and much further left than you might initially think. To get the true center point of the pulling force you have to first extend an imaginary left side anchor point down and left at the same angle as the tightened strap to the same height as the right anchor, it'll be somewhere around where the wheel bearings are. Now that you have that center point in your head, imagine one strap looped around the top of the tire and being pulled toward it. Hopefully you can now 'see' how your system will actually be pulling. Will it cause a problem? Probably not, as long as you don't tighten it too much and don't have a flat tire. Is it ideal? Clearly not.

Woulda been better off with a longitudinal strap over the tire. It'll probably work, but knowing that it's trying to pull the bike to the left would bother me.

Two sources I saw put the value at $5670-5900. The lower one was based on average asking prices, not sure about the other. Since neither source accounts for options, if this is a low optioned bike it'll be below those prices and vice versa. There's a couple newer but higher mileage police versions for sale for $4k.

Fuck that. Run it 'till it blows and buy a real bike. But, if you actually want to change the oil the bike doesn't have to be nearly as high as you got.

Tell me that you've never cut wire rope without telling me that you've never cut wire rope.

https://www.amazon.com/Ortho-GroundClear-Year-Vegetation-Killer1/dp/B085YYBKP9/ref=asc_df_B085YYBKP9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459411117297&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2629319018270997700&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031226&hvtargid=pla-943532693709&psc=1 If you don't have a good sprayer you'l have to add that, still way cheaper than a zero turn. Especially if it becomes a Zero roll.

Meh, it's a toy. Probably wouldn't be worse than the '67 Olds 442 I'm probably going to buy this weekend.

Yea. In the summer I can't get the water cool enough to shower comfortably without the heater shutting off due to insufficient flow to keep it 'triggered' on.

Assuming it needed no maintenance/repairs and that you didn't roll it down the hill.

They typically do, and the extractors are typically marked for what size range of bolts they're to be used for. Post a link or photos of what you used.

Some vehicles can be 'self programmed'. Last time I replaced a set I took it to America's Tire, AKA Discount Tire in some places, and they programmed them for free. I initially took it there just to make sure the new ones were working because they would't 'self program', but that car is known to be finicky in that regard. The guy went ahead and did the programming for me. AFAIK, you need different tools for different cars unless you buy a fairly high end tool. My go-to tire shop couldn't do it with theirs.

Tell me you don't have a clue about using extractors without saying so. Always drill the biggest hole possible and use the largest extractor you can. If you used the extractor that would fit into the existing hole, of course it broke. Once you break an extractor in a hole you're usually fucked.

For the next guy replacing a caliper, or anything past the master. Before opening the hydraulic system, put a bar or something holding the brake pedal down an inch or two. That locks the fluid in the caliper letting you take your time with the work. Beware that the brake lights will be on so if it's a really long job pull the brake light fuse or battery cable. The same can be done on bikes and trailers. When the work is done, leave the bleeder open and release the master, then you can enjoy a congratulatory beer while gravity pushes the fluid in and the air out. Give the caliper/wheel cylinder a few bumps after the fluid is flowing just to dislodge any possible air bubbles trapped in it.

Actually, he himself posted the photo of the forged eye bolt. I'm pissed at myself for being surprised that he then went and bought the weakest style. I wonder what clusters of fucks will come with the tie-down rings you gave him.

Was the original tie down point a problem with the muffler? I thought the only problem was the drive side.

It's probably Chinese, they don't care. The wiring diagram on my milling machine's motor is worse than useless. I had two other people look at it to make sure I wasn't seeing it wrong. When wired as shown it instantly blows the 30A garage fuse.

My tankless doesn't have a thermostat. The water temp is based on the size of the fire which is based on water flow, but there's no sensor for it to know what the water temp is. There's no electronics, it's purely mechanical. Two knobs let you set the minimum flow cut-in and max fire size, then it regulates from there. It does have an over-temp switch in the flue and another in the water outlet. Both are switches, no regulation, they shut the gas off if either gets too hot. They shut the valve off completely so you have to re-light the pilot.

In keeping up with human progression, it goes both ways.

I don't know anything about eye bolts, or any hardware for that matter. Tell me more about how these strange threaded fasteners work. Make sure you detail the differences between the different types of eye bolts, especially the forged type where you a normal person would not use a nut on both sides. What will you use to create space for the bulge where the loop is held, or will you just crush it down with the bolt? Have you calculated how much bending force the off-center pull point will put on the bolt and figured out what grade bolt will be required? Will you be installing it with the bike and strap in place so that you know it won't rotate under load, or install it in a willy-nilly position so you can come back to bitch about it after your tire strap falls off on the highway?

Being that you're so close to solving the last challenge, you should dump the trailer and concoct another clusterfuck to put the bike in the bed of your truck.

Jeezus kryst. No matter how easy the solution is, you will find a way to complicate it while doubting that it'll work.

Attach the strap to a lug nut, those are very strong.

Something I ran into recently on Amazon is 'fake' reviews. Not in the traditional sense of someone submitting a couple fake 5 star reviews, these products (windshield crack repair kits) had dozens or hundreds of reviews but I was fairly sure that they couldn't be that great. I started with reading the small percentage of one and two star, that's my go-to, and they were very believable. Some people post a 1 star because they couldn't make the thing work, or because it showed up damaged, etc. so I ignore those. Then I go to the 5 star and they're all raving about how great the carry bag is. Reminder, the product was a windshield repair kit. I reported them and at a glance it appears that they've been removed.