superhawk996

Holy old thread jacking! With gas the tankless is more efficient for a small household, 3 tops I'm guessing. The difference will be higher if the house spends a lot of time empty, I don't know anyone who shuts the heater off during trips away. Above that a tank is likely more efficient. When I switched I lived alone and saw the drop in the gas use, but I hadn't been draining my tank like you're supposed to and it had over 5 gallons of sediment insulating the heat away from the water. With electric I think a tankless wins no matter what, tho it's probably marginal for a household above 3. If it's electric and inside the house and you always want some extra heat then there's no energy loss using a tank since every bit of heat is being used for the water or the air. The two biggest issues I have with my tankless are: more time waiting for hot water to arrive at a faucet, and the worst part is a lack of controlling a low heat level. I don't take hot showers and in the summer it's impossible to maintain a comfortable temperature. Turn the hot down too much and the heater stops. When the cold water hits and I turn up the hot I have to wait for it again. It has also 'forced' me to waste water; I used to shut the water off between steps while showering but that throws the water temp all to shit with the tankless. My dad had the same temperature issues with his electric tankless so it's not limited to gas or me. One upside is that there's no end to the hot water so 10 people can take showers one after the other with no loss. The downside is that the flow is limited so when two faucets are run simultaneously they impact each other a lot more than with a tank. With a tank if someone turned on hot water while I was showering it would get noticeable cooler and I'd just turn it up, with the tankless it gets very cold and there's no fixing it by opening the valve more if the other consumption is more than a trickle. My showers are the furthest points of use from the heater so that makes it worse. Installing a gas tankless in place of a tank requires a larger gas line and a much larger flue, I had to afro-rig both and installed the smallest unit. A bigger one would have involved re-piping the house for the gas a fair amount of chopping for the flue. With electric they have higher consumption so you have to check that you have the circuit to support it. Tankless are much smaller so that can be an upside. A tank holds emergency water reserves, something rarely thought about. Some more downsides to mine: if the water or flue temp go beyond limits it shuts off and has to be re-lit. Surges in hot water use will sometimes shut it off too, not sure why. It mostly happens when my clothes washer does the spin-rinse cycle in the warm setting, I guess the rapid opening/closing of the water valve does something to the heater. When this one stops working or I get more fed up with it I'll be going back to tank. The ups & downs are all scattered here but assemble it and see how it looks and do some research. I wouldn't suggest a tankless unless it's a small household and a few dollars in gas are more important than comfort or you really need the space. The savings have to be considered against the higher initial cost, especially if you're paying to have it installed and they have to modify things.

I've found that some carbs will gum up easily and others won't without a lot of reason that I can think of, but running it dry or draining is a good idea. As for the gas everywhere I think you need a fresh start and see for yourself what's happening. Maybe they overfilled it before you got to it, just bouncing it hard, fell over and ain't tellin... The tank can be patched, most parts stores sell a gas tank repair kit; it's just epoxy and some matting to cover large holes.

PMing.

If he doesn't I will. If you still have that oil I might do that as well if I can find where I hid my $ from myself.

If the reflectors work well with them and there's no high beam issues.

Most of the bulbs in a parts store are Chinese, some may be held to higher standards, but a name brand doesn't guarantee quality. Try whatever the factory ones were or Osram and see what happens. Running them full time will obviously shorten their lives, but shouldn't suddenly be shorter lived than the originals unless the bulbs are crappy or the car is doing something to them.

I called last night, left a message, nothing.

Do you have the slip in silencers that come with them?

With some cars it's a DIY, some require programming with a computer. Google your car. The dealer told me I couldn't program keys or a remote for my Explorer without their computer and quoted just under about $200 for one of each. I bought an OE remote and two keys on ebay for under $30 and programmed them in minutes. When my parents borrowed the Explorer they paid Ford for a key & programming fearing it might get lost (sound familiar?) and got an aftermarket key from the dealer where I got factory keys for way less on ebay.

Considered a good hug? Been a while, did you manage to save it?

I met that guy, but I think his F2 only had 172k at the time. It was pretty clean, especially for it's mileage. I hope he still rides it 'till it dies, I'm curious how far it'll go.

Motorcycle oil in a car is often safe but not always and you can't count on extended intervals. Car oil in a bike depends on the oil and the bike's motor, clutch, and transmission design and it's use. Someone looking for top of the line lubrication like Amsoil should use what's designed for their application (the vehicle and it's intended use) otherwise it's like buying $500 super comfy bitchen work boots in the wrong size, even if you're getting them from Dave for $250 unused and better than new. Super expensive racing spec oil is worse for your grocery getter than cheap conventional oil.

20-50 diesel spec? I generally only see 15-40 and 5-40 for diesels. There's a lot of experimental shit I do with motors but I'd make sure to use something with a C rating on the SAE label in a diesel unless it's an oil proven good for diesel use.

Wish I'd known, I'da traded you my Yosh system for these.

If I were within pick-up distance I'd be more tempted, still kinda tempted at $185.

I considered that but thought it might be too thick and may cause a problem, would also suck if it left paper fibers in there or even worse if it tore.

Only while coasting or the same sitting still whether in neutral or in gear?

What belonging to the rotors has warped?

you are pretty observant ..don't think it is the older version picked it up less than a year back, better check with rideonxx to confirm..love to see more pics of your new ride. Clean voltmeter installation, also displays ambient temperature and instant MPG. Note the coolant temp, it knew it was posing for the forum.

Tried ebay?

The 999 has enough power for me, sure more is always great, but I don't have S1000RR or 1199 money to spend on a bike.

Nothing I've ridden feels or turns like this, it's as powerful as the bird, and over a hundred pounds lighter. Unfortunately my aging broken body is telling me I should stay on something like the bird.

It takes more than one person flagging it to kill it. Verifying every flagged post would be nice but would require too much manpower for something free. The main thing that'll make me flag an ad is a bunch of unrelated keywords, I hate sifting through a bunch of crap when I'm trying to find something. Miscategorized stuff, repeat posts, and fake low prices in the title will sometimes get flagged too.

It could have failed at the VA where you didn't have tools, or on the road, or... The timing was not ideal, but far from shitty. I change rubber ones every tire, metal ones I ignore longer but eventually the seals will deteriorate. 90 degree stems are really nice. I had one do exactly as yours on a bike I had no history on, annoying since it had near new tires. It's standard practice to replace them at every tire change at car tire places, no clue if bike shops think the same way across the board but the few I've had done got new stems without asking.

My 'new' Ducati had leaky seals (helped shave a couple $ off the price) so I gave cleaning them a shot. I found that there are a few people selling tools to do this but being that I'd just unloaded it from the truck I wanted to ride right then, not go tool shopping or wait for Amazon. I used the energy guide sticker that was on my new TV (and the chick bitches that I never throw things away) it's thin and fairly stiff so I thought I'd try it. A few minutes later they appeared to be good to go so I took a ride--dry Ohlins for me ! Another home tool that works well is camera film but I didn't have any laying around. While cleaning you'll get some extra oil dribbling out around your tool so be prepared. The oil was pretty dirty so I'm thinking of getting more oil, it'll need topping off anyway, and purging them some more. There are detailed tutorials online with pics & vids so I won't bother, just want to share the idea and state that it can work. They were leaking pretty badly and I had my doubts but I'm a believer now. The tutorials I found were on dirtbikes, I guess they get more dirt in their seals for some odd reason, but same job on a streeter. The Ducati manual gives the rebuild instructions for the standard version 999 with Showas, for the S model with Ohlins it gives adjustment instructions followed by -if your Ohlins have an issue fuck off and go talk to them about it.