superhawk996

Doesn't give miles, mistake or ? Appears to be lowered. It's pretty damn nice looking.

It doesn't need to be level unless you've got air trapped in it. If you need to, center stand the bike then tilt it and slip something under the left foot of the stand.

That might be a short term fix, flush the fluid. You can simply open the bleeder and let gravity do the work, as long as you don't let the master run dry you won't have any battles. Let the fluid run low before you add more so the old stuff gets out of there. Then keep up on doing it regularly and you should be good.

I can see that happening, but not a power wheelie--just on the gas, no clutching or tugging and it lifts in 2nd or 3rd. Assuming it hasn't been re-jetted for the altitude you should get a noticeable boost. If it's been jetted it may loose power and could be hazardous to the engine as it'll be lean.

Now you're just fucking with me...3rd, no way. Unless it's geared way down and modded up. My '97 wouldn't power lift in second either, it was bone stock.

If it power lifted in 2nd it's got some friggin balls. Mine won't lift in 2nd with stock or the full Yoshi exhaust. Other than a K&N and suspension it's stock. I've only done runs with one other XX and mine was quicker at the lower RPM pulls at least, not sure how they compared up high but I think he had a slight edge; this was before I Yoshied it which lost a little of the low and gained some high according to the assometer.

Are you using the RPM in place of a speed signal or both? I think my manual said you could use just the RPM if desired.

Sweet, I thought I remembered them being grounded but wasn't sure. ABS; check your owner's manual, it may give the codes according to the sequence of warning light flashes.

With most ignition systems the coil gets constant power and the ground side is the one that fires the coil: any chance the bird is wired backwards? I've never paid attention to its wiring. Or any chance you tapped into the wrong wire? If it has constant ground and is positive fired the cruise wouldn't see the fluctuations it's looking for. I read the manual for my audiovox cruise I've had sitting around, I assume it's the same model (something 100 I think). The manual made it seem like the ignition signal might be optional, but maybe not. It talks about setting it to use the ignition signal in place of a speed sensor signal if desired, but in the installation instructions it doesn't say the ignition signal is optional. I wanted to install one on my diesel van, but if it needs an ignition signal it won't work unless I install something that gives it an ignition looking signal. Are these things still sold? I've had mine a bunch of years, caught them on clearance at Kragen auto parts and bought the last three they had.

She sure is purdy. Glad it's not a '97 or I'd be tempted, woulda kept mine if it'd been that perfect looking. Some of the garage pics make the seat look grey, probably not an issue to a smart buyer, just pointing it out.

I don't know the difference between the GT and normal. Could be harder compound, stiffer construction, better heat dissipation, or? You should try to find out the details in the difference and then judge if it'll be a benefit or detriment. It seems you don't need the GT so you couldn't go wrong with the regular but the GT might be better suited for you depending on it's differences.

You could rig a 'flow bench' with a shop vac and vacuum gauge or a simple flow meter used to sync carbs. Won't give you CFM numbers but will give numbers to work with. You could start with just removing any sharp edges and blending the seats in, maybe back-cutting the valves; chuck it up on a drill press and grind/file while it spins. Been so long since I looked in a Bird head I don't recall if there were obvious easy things to address.

+1 I discovered their existence when I got a Ducati, I think they're standard issue, and they're the shit.

I bought a '97 then an '01. Both had spend time outside and on their sides, both had 50k plus miles, neither had issues other than some fading and broken tool straps.

Since the O2 signal is ignored under heavy throttle I don't see the point in deleting it. It should keep the mixture at an ideal level from idle to medium load which will maximize mileage and minimize carbon. Unless you know that it helps it's foolish to delete it. If you still have the cats you'll want to remove them before removing the O2s or they'll probably get killed and then become a restriction as they carbon up.

High test also leads to more buildup so....

Agreed. My octane statement was in reference to a stock Bird motor.

RON is Research Octane Number which is one of the measurement systems, the other is motor octane. When you look at the sticker on a pump you'll see that the octane is (R+M)/2 which is an average of the research octane and motor octane to give a total knock index (TKI) number and 91RON is generally equivalent to 87 at the pump in the US. There's no reason to use any higher octane in a stock motor unless you like lower MPG, less power, and increased combustion by products. From memory a basic breakdown of the octane measurements is that research octane measures the resistance to detonation at low RPM use like airplane engines and motor octane is the resistance to detonation at high RPM. This is why aviation gas has high numbers while being cheaper than race gas and those who mistakingly use AV gas in place of race gas in a hot rod to save money wind up buying new engines.

Your '97 was tuned way rich or was fucked up and running hi-test is a mistake that robs power and mileage.

I don't know what WPC GR is, but if you swapped in a non O2 computer it would obviously not be looking for an O2 reading. The O2 is only adjusting things at light load, once on the gas hard they go off-line and fueling is handled based on programming and O2 signal is ignored....as far as I know from everything I've read about anything with an O2 that wasn't a wideband O2 which the bird never had.

I would be afraid to run without the retaining screw unless Honda decided it wasn't needed. My guess is someone lost it. I've never seen this style caliper mounting that didn't have the retaining screw, but I haven't worked on a lot of them. The heat pads shouldn't be any issue unless you're riding aggressively, race track style aggressive with lots of hard braking for an extended period.

It would be best to pop the pistons out and do a good cleaning. This may be beyond what you want/can do so a fluid change and pumping the pistons in & out might be a decent alternative. Also manually pump the linked brake master at the left fork to flush clean fluid through it and clean it out some. Make sure you don't let a piston pop out of the caliper while you're pumping if you're not prepared to bleed the system. External cleaning will do nothing for them and brake cleaner could harm the rubber and paint.

I thought evap was a federal thing. Pretty sure my non-Ca. '01 has evap.

I have an 01 if you wanna roll south to the LA area. I've read in a few places that 99 was supposed to be the fastest, possibly about tied with 01, and all the others a tad slower. Some have said that '97 was possibly the fastest. 99 and up have a different header giving more torque and less HP. I've read in many credible places that 01 was the beginning of O2 sensors and cats but mine doesn't have them, I believe it was included on Ca. bikes and those going to some other countries; mine's not a Ca. bike. Check the emissions sticker on the left side, it'll show meets US EPA or meets US and Ca requirements. You could swap ECUs and see if the power follows the brain or the bike. Being that you have O2 and had cats it's possible it was tuned mellower for stricter emissions. I've never read of a different mapping for the low gears on the XX. I don't see how it would since there's no gear position sensor tho it could do it off the speedo input. The bigger rear sprocket would make it a tad quicker. The slip-ons in theory would add HP at higher revs while loosing some at lower. I put a full Yoshi on mine and my impression was that it lost power below 4k, was about even to about 5k, and much stronger above 6k. As it comes onto the power it lifts the front quite well which I don't think it did before. The only bird I've run mine against is mikesail's, don't know what year his is. We did several side x side roll-ons from about 4k from memory and also swapped bikes. I had the stock exhaust at the time and I pulled way better from low RPM, not sure about the top end but I think his was stronger. He had a one tooth bigger front sprocket which will weaken acceleration and a full exhaust. When I looked at his header I could see why the low end was weak, the tubes looked quite oversized.

If that's in reference to my post about eBay; I meant the mufflers, I wasn't clear. I've never looked at bars so no clue.