superhawk996

Stock trans is extremely shocking, they aren't known to be all that great. If it's been babied I guess it's possible. If I had 8k laying around I'd be giving yours some serious thoughts.

With a hot rod tune making the motor put out WAY more than it was designed to.

Funny that both motors & trans options get nearly identical expected MPG. Damnit, looking at those numbers is making me think I should keep the truck and sell my beloved Explorer. Same MPG, lots more power & towing capability. Add a good bed cover and it'll carry more shit. Only real upside of the Ex is it's much easier to maneuver, especially since my parking is pretty tight. I have two guys lined up to see it today, both being pretty damn serious, so I'm guessing it'll be outa my hair and thoughts soon. But if you need something else to do with your cabin fever I'll tell you about the Cherokee or F-350 I'm also selling :-). Neither being a smokin deal nor great daily drivers, so you'll have to wanna dream about climbing rock walls or driving over Prius.

Vehicle shipping costs are all over the place. If you can find someone already making the trip and having an empty spot vs. 'get it to me now' makes a big difference.

I did some more reading on JB weld and while it is magnetic, it's not conductive just as they say. My clean title came in the mail today. It's possible that it'll still get reported and someone's just slacking, or it slipped through the cracks. The insurance guy/people screwed up on some other stuff so I'm not too surprised they didn't report the salvage.

The cylinders don't fire at the same time, but the coils do. While one cylinder is on the ignition stroke and using the spark the other is on the exhaust so that spark just gets wasted. If the coil's dead then yea, you're dumping gas. Not only hurting the cats, but probably doing a bit of fuel contamination to the oil and contaminating/washing away the oil film on those cylinder walls. If unplugging the injectors makes it run shittier then it means the coil is working, tho it could be not working quite right. Or maybe there's something else causing the miss.

1 & 6 might share a coil. If they aren't getting spark and you gotta drive it I'd disconnect those injectors. The random multiple misfire could be a result of the two dead ones throwing the system off.

That's good news. My truck is sitting while I wait for the title to arrive. If it comes back clean I'll probably do the body work and cash in. I had two friends considering buying it that would have taken it with the generic transfer papers, strangers generally want to see a title so I haven't advertised it yet. Regardless, the buddy deal price still applies until I fork out for the body work. His ins. co. assessed it just under $8k market value, don't know what they go for in your area. Probably hard to asses something this old with low miles and no rust in your area. Plus factoring in the cost to get it there.

I'm lost. Did the engine get replaced or just the hose, O2, & pipe?

It the miss is constant it could be a valve, intermittent miss very unlikely a valve. If a valve is burnt and it has a lot of miles and you plan to keep it it might be better to do a whole rebuild/replacement.

I fast forwarded through both. Knowing that JB weld has iron in it I'm thinking it could pose a problem embedding several electrical connectors in it. As far as paying a shop, if it looks like a pain in the ass you either deal with that pain or the pain in your wallet. But in many cases it's not worth the pain in the ass if you're not well practiced and well equipped to do the repair.

Made by Rough Country so it might be a little better than one made by Smitty Built.

I didn't know a 650 existed, I always thought they jumped from 550 to 750. I had both of those.

Pull it off and take a look. Maybe re-insert the bolt with only the housing to guide it straight and see if it threads ok. That assembly is so long that it's hard to imagine it having been cross threaded, but it might be. Or maybe he just left an o-ring out, or stacked a new o-ring on top of the old one, or maybe there's just something stuck in there keeping the o-ring from seating. If it needs to be heli-coiled it'll be tough to drill it straight. My thought would be to reinsert the bolt with the housing so you know it's straight and strip the fuck out of it, basically enlarging the hole with the bolt. That should open it up enough for the heli-coil tap to grab & cut. Use the housing to guide the tap so that you get a straight shot. That's assuming they make a helicoil in that size. The tap provided is a starting tap and may bottom out before cutting enough threads so you may have to cut as far as you can, then grind the end off the tap to turn it into a bottoming tap, then cut the rest of the threads. If you don't know the 'starting' 'bottoming' terms google them, then what I say will probably make sense. If not PM me for a phone conversation.

I can't imagine it would run at 17.8. My guess is that the PAIR system is skewing the numbers.

Seems like a steal, especially from a dealer.

I had a '97 with a full tank bra. When I pulled it off it was the cleanest part of the bike. Looking at everything else on that bike I'd speculate he didn't let the tank get messed up and then cover it.

And I don't know how common it is on these trucks, but this has the standard 4 wheel drive settings as well as a full time AWD setting, they call it "auto 4wd". Probably pretty useful where there's often snow/ice/mud on the roads since it'll handle better than the normal locked 4WD will.

The luxuries of being in SoCal, no rust. I'm usually leery on 'selling' someone on a vehicle, but from everything I can tell this truck is a gem for the $. If it was an HD with the big motor I'd keep it and sell my F-350, but something has to be able to tow that behemoth in the background.

It's pretty tight against the boat so the damaged side is hard to get a good pic of, and I'm too lazy to car shuffle right now. I haven't tried to sell it and have two locals that may want it, just been waiting for me to get the smog check and ABS fixed which I did yesterday.

Been quiet here so; White '01 4X4 Z71 LS trim. Extended cab short bed 5.3 auto with 139k for $3500. Dark grey/black interior, cloth seats. Haven't checked the gear ratio so the tow rating is either 8K or 9K. It's likely going to have a salvage title, hasn't been reported yet. It's possible it falls through the cracks and retains a clean title. It might go to a buddy, but he hasn't confirmed. If nobody jumps at it at buddy pricing I'll probably do the $500ish in body repairs and advertise it for much more, but keeping it for more than a a couple more weeks will mean a new insurance policy, mine maxes out at 6 vehicles, and I'd rather not deal with it. It was totaled when the driver hit a parked trailer. Ripped the right front spindle off, broke both ball joints & the tie rod end. I repaired it and without doing an alignment, other than tape measured toe setting, it runs straight despite it rolling on the spare which is a different size and offset than the other 3 wheels/tires. Alignment might be perfect or maybe the spare is counteracting something. Right fender & mirror are toast and the door is damaged. The door might be worth fixing, but a complete color matched one at a junkyard is cheap enough that it's unlikely worth fixing and painting this one. Everything works, the worst thing I can find with it is that the driver's window makes a little noise when going up & down indicating that the regulator might be starting to wear out, but it works fine. Other than the above the truck is really clean for an '01. The original owner was a little old man that apparently just used it as his commuter car 'till he died. I was called in to check it over when my friend bought it from the widow and it appeared to be very well cared for. Garage kept, not a scuff on it, and the interior smelled almost like new. Shocks were a little soft, pitman & idler arms and tie rods all had just a hint of play, couldn't find anything else to do to it other than an oil change because we didn't know how old it was, but it was clean. The steering/suspension stuff really didn't need to be done, but he had me do it all to make it perfect. If it served any purpose for me or I didn't already have so many vehicles I'd keep it, it's hard to find a cheap 16 year old vehicle this nice.

Finessed; AKA installed correctly.

No, it does not. I've never had a code caused by doing suspension work and can't see any reason it would, as long as the work isn't totally botched of course. Any time a replacement part won't fit, like your strut hole issue, logic would dictate that either the part is wrong or the installer is doing it wrong. For you to think Toyota made a mistake on the holes, but were able to fit the struts anyway, and the holes needed to be corrected by you is dumb. Enlarging the holes to make it easier on yourself to get it all together, which is likely the case here, is a whole different story. Other than having lost the rust protection enlarging them a little is probably no issue, but I've seen these kinds of "fixes" cause serious issues.

Sold it to my cousin for his kid and keep forgetting to kill the ad, thanks for the reminder. Made a family/buddy deal, but I got it cheap enough so no biggie.

I never coulda dreamt the actual details of cluster fucks, nor that you'd end up drilling out holes in the car, but it went about as expected. By the time you pay the shop to fix it you mighta saved enough to pay yourself half of minimum wage.