superhawk996

Dude, why do you keep starting new threads about the same bike?!?

I didn't consider trying to cure a problem when I wrote that, I have used additives to try to cure problems as well as flush additives. OMG's experience may have been due to the additive or the long drive.

That's in the Ducati forum where most bikes have dry clutches, in that case no oil can hurt the clutch. I didn't read the whole thing so maybe they specifically address wet clutches. Also beware that what might work fine with one clutch might not with another, whether by design or usage.

I would be greatly impressed by that. Did you witness the before/after or hear about it?

You should enjoy the ones already in the oil.

The one armed bandit, it's been selling snake oil for decades. Dandruff shampoo also passes that test, and it might be a good engine cleaner. And the engine won't get dandruff. There's lots of stuff that will pass that test that don't belong in an engine. That machine is going to shine when there's a strong EP lubricant present, something that most engines don't need. In simple terms, EP lubes act as a backup lubricant, if the oil film fails to keep two parts from rubbing, the EP steps in. The EP lube is basically floating along with the oil doing nothing until high heat 'activates' it. This used to be handled by zinc, today it's mostly handled by other stuff. There are supporting additives that must be used with zinc and a different set for the alternatives. Those supporting additives don't get along with eachother nor with the wrong EP additive. While throwing some zinc into the oil will definitely improve it's EP qualities, it can also cause a breakdown of the whole package. Some EP lubes that are 'proven' by the one armed bandit can be highly corrosive. There are additives that can improve an oil's performance, they can also make it worse. Some additives can 'fight' with the additive package already in the oil. I'm pretty sure there's a great oil for every engine out there so trying to play home chemist doesn't seem to make sense to me, unless you really know your shit. I've seen tests where additives clearly reduced an oil's performance. There might have been a time when additives made sense, especially before these additives existed, today I don't think there's a good reason to fuck with the oil. I'm not a lube specialist/engineer, much of the above is what I've gathered from reading what they've written. I've yet to find any engineer or oil maker/distributor that recommends an additive. The only thing I've heard from them on the subject is to not put anything in their oil. I've read testimonials from oil and fuel additive users that are incredible, and some are clearly full of bullshit.

Trying to understand because your post was confusing. The condensation is on the AC vent and your assumption is that humid air is coming into the bathroom through the exhaust fan/heater/light unit? If the condensation is only during/after a shower it's not the fan, if it happens all the time or randomly and not related to shower use then it could be the fan unit letting air in.

You think I was dumb enough to disclose such a flaw? I can't remember if it still had any kind of strap, but probably not. Actually, I paid no attention to the underseat area before taking it to him, evidenced by the Cornwell 10mm deep socket he recently found in there. That socket had probably lived there since Carlos came out to get his China bike, I installed a new battery while he was here.

I was using an o-ring too, it was already old when I found it and I think it broke. That's why I had to get rid of that pile o crap bike.

I had no idea. I never detected a problem with the mirrors and don't think I ever had them off to see that.

Shortly after buying that Bird I bought a box of used XX hardware on ebay and thought I'd replaced all the missing and incorrect bolts. I might have it and didn't notice, or didn't have it and that's why it's still missing. I replaced the couple missing plastic pins that came with the box of stuff, but only had a few.

I'm guessing that drinking lead to needing a mirror stem. Maybe it didn't, but that's the excuse I'd use. That's the excuse I used when I forgot to fold the mirror and scuffed it on the doorway into the house.

I don't know of any trucks or SUVs that have filler security, but many cars and all bikes do. I'd love to know if there's a logical reason for the disparity.

None of my current cars have a latching gas lid. The Porsche ('79 928) came with a locking cap from the factory, none of the others came with any security. I've had dozens of vehicles and most had nothing. Most of the Hondas and I think all of the Volvos I've had had latching lids. Cars are said to have anti syphon devices in the filler tube, I think most or all of those are actually anti-spray devices so if you open the cap with a pressurized tank you don't get a gas bath. Gas powered Excursions have it, my diesel doesn't. Diesels have vented tanks so they don't develop pressure like gassers can. If the device was really to protect against fuel theft my 44 gallons of diesel should be protected at least as well as 10 gallon gassers.

Lube can't prevent dirt & stuff from getting in there. It can make the dirt & stuff stick in there.

Me. Because I think that doing so would be stupid. I don't recall any lock manufacturer or locksmith advising to use WD40, and many have specifically stated to never do it. Then there's those who tout using the stuff on everything including chains so maybe there is something magical about the stuff.

I've experimented with tires and spark plugs back to back and different ones can make a big difference whether new or used. Before Splitfire spark plugs existed I made a set for my Mustang and it was pretty obvious they worked better than the normal plugs. That was a 351 Cleveland with 2V open chamber heads, engines with more efficient designs might not change as much.

I'd never given thought to the fact that bikes come with keyed gas caps and cars don't. The only logic I can think of is that cars have anti-syphon devices and bikes don't.

This review makes the Vanderhall look pretty unappealing https://www.cycleworld.com/2017-vanderhall-venice-puts-style-ahead-substance/ One thing that shocked me a bit was the guy saying that it had massive understeer at parking lot speed. My guess is they copy/pasted the steering from a car so the Ackermann is fucked up which is going to fuck with the handling at all speeds. On their website is a video with Jay Leno and the Vanderhall guy explains why they went with front wheel drive. The explanation stuck out as a retarded reason for using FWD. There was a different reason given in the cycleworld review. From the tiny bit I know, I recommend a scrutinizing test drive before buying.

The second one for the win.

Key in the ignition, doors unlocked, regardless where it's parked?

That implies that your tool strap is intact.

It looks like they just took the standard two seater and added a cowling to cover the right side. If it has the second seat under there it makes sense, otherwise it seems stupid to eliminate the option without gaining any benefit.

I've extracted a few keys with a pick. Two picks, one on each end of the key, often works better. As for removing the assembly, I don't think you'll need to remove the tank. If the piece of key is in the right position you should be able to turn it with a screwdriver or other tool to open it. It might be worth trying this before trying to extract the key in case you can't get it out. Trying to extract might move it out of position forcing tank removal. The piece of key might be able to move further in, not sure if it bottoms out on the key tip or the 'flat' near the key handle, so be careful with the screwdriver.

I don't remember any. The first water cooled bike I remember having was a VF1000R and it got Fleetguard low silicate HD truck coolant because it was free from work, along with the 15-40 oil.