Zero Knievel

For all the sick measuring, I have to ask… So, why didn’t it come with a control module to do all this. Connect to 12v line and signal wires to tell it when to do what? Sounds like you tried to do something other than run wires to the correct existing circuits. Hell. The Prius is heavily computerized. My BMW is CANBus. I made sure anything I wanted to add had a control module and/or was compatible before buying. So, I’m having an issue wrapping my head around why you’re having as issue in the first place.

Paint it light blue and update the tech and you could try to pass it as KITT in that horrible effort to reboot Knight Rider.

So long as there’s an incentive to lie/cheat without serious consequences, it will happen.

Well, you criticized using wood to make a draft piece. I say it would be fine to attain the desired shape and size…then use it as a template for making it from better materials. Unless you can re-smelt metal at home, why waste a good piece of metal when you haven’t determined the final form?

Why would you waste valuable materials making the test version?

Well, it would work for a test fitting and brief testing. If it's right, use it as a template for one made of better materials.

Wouldn’t it be easier to just buy your sex bench?

The midi-chlorian count might be off the charts. 🤔 Gonna just glue and screw. The table is on a sturdy frame…no danger of failure. Furbird’s take makes perfect sense. Glue and screw a reinforcing strip and pack the crack with either wood glue or wood filler.

You getting kickbacks from the local orthopedics association?

Not sure if this matters, but this end of the table faces the windows in the kitchen that had 1/4” of ice on the inside this past Christmas…when we knew we had to replace the windows. 0 degrees that morning, and I think I remember hearing a CRACK that day, but didn’t see where it came from. I suppose extreme contraction made a weak point split. I actually see no structural issue with the table because the underlying frame is completely intact. Even if the split crossed the whole table, that surface wouldn’t collapse under normal use. Shot so the floor would reflect light into the camera so the crack would be visible.

I’ve added 3 more photos. Can’t force it back together by hand, and we keep the table covered, so I’m not worried about aesthetics.

The kitchen table developed a split. We’ve been told it would cost as much to fix (by a professional) as it would be to replace it. That said, I’m sure a woodworker would have no issue repairing the table for himself at minimal cost. I know I’d need a couple of clamps that go beyond 3 feet, wood glue, a reinforcement strip that would be glued and screwed into the underside of the table. Thoughts?

You can skip most ads in 5 seconds. Streaming is being bleed slowly…imaging paying a fee for each channel you can tune in, regardless of how much content you actually get to watch. Sometimes the ads provide entertainment by showing how self-unaware the algorithm is. The ads at least give me a heads up on what products and services to NOT buy.

Why would anyone pay for the garbage they call entertainment?

Finally installed. We get 30 channels now (5, 11, 19, 39 & 68). Took two days in this heat. Got the antenna set up and ran wire through the house to ensure it worked as placed. Today, I ran the wire down the wall to the TV. I was fortunate to get the hole placed correctly on the first try.

The only use I see for that is if you’re disabled or need hands free operation, but then where’s the motion sensor?

In truth, I've changed nothing. My house is too far away from anything to even bother changing the password. Default had 2.4 and 5g turned on. I turned 5g off and just used 2.4. I suppose I could try a factory reset, but I'd not expect it to do anything more than a power cycle restart would do. Not me, but maybe so many others overwhelming a data choke point. At work, even on the IT backbone, responsiveness drops when everyone is trying to get work done at the same time (e.g., right before end of shift). It's why I log off 15 minutes before going home...nothing is going to get done efficiently during that window when everyone wants to get last minute work done. Things went from sugar to shit (for my normal performance) in the last half hour. My iPhone, iPad and work laptop being the only thing drawing on the network. No change in weather. *** Ironically, it's gotten better in the last 15 minutes. *** Well, this bullshit is my only option. Starlink requires unobstructed sky and we keep being told fiber optic landline is coming, and I'd rather hold out for that if I can. My question is why would the router work fine for several hours then turn to shit if it's failing. I'd expect consistent issues 24 hours day...not just during certain time frames. So far, it seems most of the buggery kicks in around 11:30-12:00 and stays that way the rest of the day. Router is on 24/7 and is located in the basement, so I shouldn't be a heat issue.

Both guest networks are turned off. I only turned on the 5g one a few months back…and I use it for my work laptop presuming that sharing bandwidth with other devices on 2.4g was causing an issue. ironically, the internet’s working pretty good this morning, even though my download is throttle because I’ve used up my allotment for the month. It’s possible that my problem has nothing to do with my in home network, but rather the rest of the Internet. Too many people trying to access the same basic website at one time resulting in poor responses or dropped transmissions. The downlink station being overtaxed by too many users at one time? Hell, I don’t know to what end the forest fires in Canada could be impacting things, and even at the office, when plugged into the network directly, of late it seems to be less responsive than normal.

This will be the reverse of what we did in our house. We replaced the countertop, but deliberately looked for a pattern that closely matched the old countertop and the backsplash, so it would look good. Perhaps you can find a veneer that matches the countertop?

FDA has been a joke for decades.

Have no idea what that means. The modem has 4 channels. Primary and guest for both 2.4 and 5.0. I have no idea if they can see each other, not that I’d expect that to matter where connecting to the internet or when testing between a device and the router as compared to device to device within the network(s) run by the router. HughsNet satellite. That my jitter is worse via cable compared to WiFi is mystifying.

Okay, the results from my work laptop using speed.cloudfare.com. WiFi results taken within 3 feet of modem/router. And, yes, it appears the WIRED connection did worse than WiFi. At the time of these tests, I'm on my "bonus" time (no throttled performance) and there should be considerably less internet usage than during work hours. WiFi 24 20230724 0458am.csv WiFi 24 20230724 0458am.pdf WiFi 50 20230724 0502am.csv WiFi 50 20230724 0502am.pdf wired 20230724 0454am.csv wired 20230724 0454am.pdf

On satellite, I can’t go by latency because…satellite. What is considered “healthy” jitter? I downloaded an app (WiFi SweetSpot) to test data transfer rates between device and router (in-home WiFi), but without a guide of what is good and what indicates trouble, the data is of little use.

Curious. Just now, wired has a jitter of 238ms…wireless was 152ms. The 5 gHz channel is not showing on phone, pad or laptop. Interface says it’s on. I’ll try a hard reboot of the router. Nope. No change. Granted, the laptop is from 2013, iPad is 5th generation, but iPhone is a 12, so unless all of these don’t utilize the 5g band…. Work laptop does see and operate on the 5g radio, but I can’t install Speedtest as an app and the online version doesn’t report jitter. There’s a saved link to a different test. If it reports jitter, I’ll see what it gets.

Recommendations on what to use to do that?