Zero Knievel

My WiFi is a combo cable (coaxial) modem/router unit. It’s gone out once before…so I know it can fail. Last time, one of the two radios failed completely. What warning signs are there that the radio is going out? I have a 2.4 gHz and a 5 gHz channel. I suspect the 2.4 is dying…again. What can I do to test WiFi performance (to/from router)? How would healthy vs. failing look? Of late, internet performance has been bad, but between weather, haze in the air, etc., I don’t know if it’s the router or not. Downloading 10 GB of data (game update), the download kept failing. I have “rebooted” the router 3 times…which helped the performance for a while.

I’ll know when I get to drive it. It was quiet before I changed the oil.

Lucas 80-90 gear oil plus Yukon friction modifier/posi additive.

Done. Not anywhere near as bad as you all suspected. No gunk or clumps. Dirty, yes. It was worse when I did my S-10 years ago, and it didn’t have even 100K on it. Hardest bit was cleaning off the old gasket.

Sigh.... Research "grazing."

Run for the bunkers! Tomek and I agree on something! The apocalypse is upon us!

I would be more appropriate that we obtain better quality from meat than elsewhere. B vitamins, for example, come in a readily absorbable form from meat than from other sources. It’s the same deal with colloidal mineral supplements. The body processes less than 10% of straight mineral supplementation. Up to 50% if it is in chelated form. Colloidal is around 90%. Plants grown in mineral rich soil convey the most effective amount of mineral supplementation. You’d have to take double or even 10 times the desired dosage in lesser forms. The meat from animals works the same way. Being an “athletic vegan” means nothing. It’s an uphill battle to remain pure vegan before it’s just easier and healthier to start reincorporating real meat into the diet. There is zero evidence that fake meat is more environmentally sound. The costs of making and transporting the chemicals they need, the costs to grow and transport the plant crops needed to make it, the power required to synthesize the end product, etc. Unless they’ve produced numbers subject to scrutiny and peer review, I know of very few synthetic processes that use less energy than the natural process. Any idea of the water crops require? I know of blood feuds in Wyoming over water rights because farmers want the water for crops and the Indian tribe (who has superior legal right to the water) lives in a desert because all the water was diverted away from the reservation for the farmers. Cattle are naturally harmonious with the environment. Indeed, they help sequester more carbon back into the environment than they are accused of releasing. Pretty much every criticism you can cite is focuses on industrial ranching operations…just like raising chickens. Poor land management. Etc. I see idiots complain how land used for cattle could be used to grow crops….WRONG! Maybe if an operation is located where there is rich soil with lots of rain and long growing seasons, but you can raise food animals most anywhere…your “heads per acre” depends on the natural food available for grazing. That’s why you see cattle, horses, etc. shipped en masse north and south with the changing seasons…trying to maximize use of available grazing land. So, perhaps we should rethink how much meat we consume regularly. What the WEF wants is to essentially ban meat consumption for the commoners (why else do you think Bill Gates has been buying up farmland and bankrolling “fake meat” research). Every “synthetic” replacement for a natural product has produced health problems that did not preexist the release of the product. Artificial sweeteners, margarine, fat substitutes, etc. Presuming you don’t have certain health issues, eating red meat, butter, whole milk, natural cheeses, etc. (in moderation, of course) is a healthier choice than trying to eat the synthetic substitutes only to suffer the long term consequences of their impact on the human body. Remember, high cholesterol is not a disease…it is a symptom of a larger issue, but how many doctors and pharmaceutical companies focus on forcibly lowering the cholesterol numbers with drugs? How often do they consider that some people have naturally high cholesterol in spite of healthy diet and exercise practices?

1. It is well established that we get things from meat we can’t get elsewhere. We’re omnivores for a reason. There’s a reason you can’t survive on a pure vegan diet. 2. The process to make fake meat is energy intensive, uses a whole host of chemicals to mimic the end product, and it is also well established that our bodies DO NOT do well with processed foods. We are designed to eat simple, natural foods.

You do realize you can absorb stuff rectally? Don’t attempt a wine enema. You’ll be dead in minutes.

The process to make the fake meat simply isn’t worth it. Real meat isn’t a problem. Overconsumption is the usual culprit.

For that effort, I'd just sooner put it in the attic. I'm looking for the best way to run it through the wall. I do have the thought to simply buy two wall plates for coaxial cable and install one opposite the one behind the TV and in the ceiling of the closet. The cable itself might be an eyesore, but at least the connections will look professional. It has to be aimed generally in the direction it picks up signals, and it's too damn large to sit indoors.

Well, I mounted it outside, and it works like shit. I put the amplifier back on (outside component I left off), and I get worse performance with it. So, I’m looking at a combination of failed amplifier and/or bad/deteriorating wire. The antenna didn’t work in the house without the booster attached, so one is needed, but there was like 3’ of cable between the antenna and booster at the time. It will be simpler to mount it in the attic than to re-run wire out to the antenna pole. FYI, the Radio Shack booster was a 2 part system. Booster in the house, amplifier on the antenna mast. That it got very good reception in the house indicates that obstacles are not an issue unless there is considerable mass involved. In the attic, I can place it higher than it was outside and where there is less mass in external obstructions (trees) in the direction I must aim it. The key is to find mounting options intended to bolt to roof framing. I’ll likely have to go to the hardware store and ask around. Searching online is useless because you need to know the name of what you want to find if they have it. Anyone have a link on how to run cable through a wall that’s already closed in? I know it’s done, but I’d rather learn up before drilling holes, and NO, I don’t want to put holes in ceilings and walls Willy-Nilly.

You mean vertically, right? Horizontal would have it facing up or down.

Antenna is here. Setting it up in the house, it works well. Considering mounting it in the attic. Any suggestions for what kind of mount to use?

Hope the guy realized that aluminum consumption has been linked to Assheimers.

They do make gaskets for my differential. A question on lube. Haynes says it takes API GL-5 SAE 90 Hypoid I don’t see a lot of SAE 90 on auto shop pages…most all cover a range. What do you suggest?

Is there a way to clear cache on Safari but not cookies and vice versa? I hate it when the solution is to clear the cache, because I lose everything when all I want to do is clear out old cached files that may be causing issues in the browser.

Would I just drain and fill…let it sit open for X minutes to let gravity drain as much as possible…rinse the gears with a proper cleaning agent to remove as much old grease before closing up and refilling? I know “motor flush” products are prone to make things worse when it absolutely needed and are not recommended.

Both spin the same direction…whether I spin forward or backward.

Okay watch this clip and tell me how you read it. One wheel on ground while in neutral with parking brake off.

Define "freely." I don't think I can freely spin the rear wheels when both are off the ground, but I think that's more to do with all the drive components moving along with the wheel as compared to just having to spin the wheel on a hub.

How else do you explain a 30-year-old booster doing a better job than the latest designs?

I could use extra eyes on this… This is the best image I could get of the tag on the differential. Based on the following site, this is the essential information…. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-7-5-8-8-inch-axle-tag-door-codes/ 7.5” ring gear The “L” in the “L73” indicates a limited slip which requires adding a friction modifier when refilling.

Finally ordered the replacement antenna. So far, every replacement booster works worse than the 30+ year old one we’re currently using. I attribute this to crappy build quality compared to 30 years ago.

Sorry about that. I keep thinking the garage is for bike-related issues. I shall. Keep in mind this thread started on Sunday. It’s now Tuesday morning. I’ve not even been to town yet, and the truck gets used maybe once every couple of weeks…to take the trash to the collection center.