XXBirdSlapper

This. Also flip it front to back.

The rear wheel should be snug when the axle nut is torqued to spec.

How in the fuck do you get 12k miles out of a front tire???

On trips I occasionally throw a small (frame mounted) bicyclist hand pump and repair kit in the gear. If you are practiced, a can of wd40 and a match will work if the bead is broken..

Aluminum cylinder sleeves??

I think the easiest and cleanest way to deal with this is just to cut off this "test connector", and remove all the wires and ECM. Out of sight, out of mind.

You should not expect double the wear... average rpm on my motorcycle is probably somewhere in between 2 - 4K rpm's. 2K in town... 4 K on the highway. My car is about the same. I changed the first set of IR's out in the car at 100K. They were visibly eroded, but the car still ran great. New plugs... and yes it ran smoother, but no change in fuel mileage etc. Now for the bike.... there should be NO doubt that a good IR plug like the one listed above, should last you at least 50K miles. However, I... just me, like to change some things out, maintenance wise, a little early, just to keep them in premo running condition. So I change them at 25K ish. The beauty of the IR plugs is their resistance to fouling coupled with their long service life. They are kind of like a self cleaning spark plug, if you will, and this helps to keep things running smoothly, even if you get a bad tank of gas from somewhere. You average between 2-4 rpm? What are you riding, a sportster???

yes if you have it The paper gasket gets pulled on each time the cover goes off and back on and I did that on/off cycle 4 times! The bolts worked really well and they align the lower alignment dowel and the starter reducer gear pin quick and easy as well as holding gasket in the proper place. The bolts were cheaper than the Hi-tack spray. just hi-tack one side so you can remove/replace. Your old lady's hair spray would work too, and its cheaper still....

I have noticed the slow warm up, rough running, hesitation till fully warmed up traits with several vehicles in need of fresh plugs. If you are in to do a lash check, just change them. How hard the bike is ridden is sure to effect plug life too.

Couldnt you just secure the gasket with Hi-Tack spray?

Looks acceptable to me, run a leakdown. Did you notice a decrease in mph during your latest runs? A lack of power would show there, and I think possibly a better indicator of issues.

Made in India.... I think I will pass

13K??? What are you riding on,,,,,carpeted bicycle trails with no corners???/??

Some here will advocate using a car tire. They really last compared to cycle specific shoes.

Boiling can actually be bubbling from the engine cylinder pressure charging the cooling system. Do a pressure check, replace the rad cap, or check it too. A sudden loss of pressure ( when the engine is shut off when there is a gasket leak) can lead to a quick boil/ overheat/ puke into the reservoir.

Unlikely, or at least difficult to ID. In that case, all you can do is pull it and take it to an auto parts store to match it up...unless someone knows which make/model will fit. It has a funky off-set that makes it fairly special. I think it'll be hard to find an automotive one that fits unless it's an exact copy. What was the failure on yours? it was easy when I did my Yammy. Caliper, a good parts guy, and I was in business in 15 minutes. I think it crossed to a dodge pickup (Small one). All that matters is diameter, flange thickness, and basic configuration so it fits in the housing, and temp rating. The one I bought had a brass restricter that wasnt in the original so I cut it off with a pair of side cutters to leave just the open weep hole. Even that was the same size.

In that case, all you can do is pull it and take it to an auto parts store to match it up...unless someone knows which make/model will fit. Thats what I did with my Yammy. Worth the effort to save $30 on the principle alone. Bring a caliper to measure OD and thickness and have at it.

It will cross to an automotive thermostat most likely. Less than $10.

I had a 14" barreled AUG and a 14' folding-stock 870 in my work vehicle most of my career. The AUG was in a lockbox but the 870 stayed tucked between the driver's seat and the console - the only vehicle I had that didn't fit it, a Grand Prix, I traded off as soon as I could. G19 primary and a 26 as a backup. All. The. Time. The purpose of a sidearm is to fight your way to your primary weapon - a rifle. Seems like there's a higher than normal bunch of public servants doing their best to give police work a bad name these days. Or they're just getting caught more frequently now with cameras everywhere. I'm damn happy I got out of the business when I did. Watch your back. A 14" AUG is about as close to a deaf machine as possible. That will wake the neighbors.

I did that earlier (and the battery did great), but I'm not talking about "Oh, I suspect this may be a bad battery, let me take it into town to be tested." I'm talking about your average day and you realize the way the bike's behaving it's tell-tale of the battery starting to fail. The warning signs that would make you think to take it into town to be tested. thats why I have a load tester. WELL WORTH THE INVESTMENT. Paid for itself many times already.

Why dont you load test the battery and stop fucking arround?

What exactly is a euro switch?

So why go aftermarket? Just looking to save money or are originals running dry?

I had two Harbor Freight dial type air pressure gauges. One with a hose, which was nice where disc brakes on the bike make accessing the valve stem difficult for anyone with hands larger than third grade size. The othe a compact unit. Both had bleed valves and were nicely accurate. Both broke after extremely limited usage. I would love quality versions of both for the roll arround. Unfortunately I havent had time to sift through the detritous to find something of better than Chinese junk quality.....

Impact gun is your friend for disassembly.