XXBirdSlapper

I've bled countless lines. The feel wasn't indicative of air. It was the rigidity of the line that changed the feel. Putting the stocker back on brought back the feedback. At least on that bike.

My buddy had similar results on a clutch line installed on his Vmax. Destroyed the feel when finessing the bike off the line. Bleeding didn't help.

Spongee means the line is compromised. There is no warning for failure oftentimes. 23 years is plenty of service life. Living in the rust belt I've had more lines fail than I want to post. Sure, my bird is garaged and never sees salt. But age, sunlight, and ozone still exists. I need to do mine in the next year. Also, regularly replacing brake fluid has noticeably reduced brake problems for me.

I've been meaning to replace them. Not interested in delinking, but thinking a set of good braided lines, compatible with Heli bars, or the stock clip ons (I've been meaning to put the stockers back on) would be good. They'll be the last lines my bike will likely need. She's a 97, with a 96 build date. 23 years old!!

I run dino Rotel and my 97 shifts smooth as glass. I haven't done any drag strip passes. But have launched it hard on the street. Not that is even close to dedicated 1/4 mile abuse.

Sounds like your steel clutch plates are warped. The bike spend a lot of time on the drag strip?

I've used wd-40 in the heat cycle too. You are correct, it seams to improve the results, but red loctite s bad ass, so it may prevent it from drawing the wd into the threads. Wouldn't hurt it to try. Soaking the threaded area in acetone may break down the loctite too.

If it's ported vacuum it would.

If you made the bolt head red hot you drew the hardness down and promoted the deformation. Next time try heating, a paint heat gun is convenient, and immediately spray with cold water. Repeat several times. The last time don't spray it with cold water, put a six point socket or wrench on it and wack that with a hammer to break it free. Since its lock tighted, and deformed, bite the bullet and weld a much larger nut onto the deformed head and use method above.

How did you apply heat??

It cleans the munge buildup off over every bump. It conditions seals, and makes old parts new.

Agreed. I run one pint of Pinesol per oil change. It has a side benefit, it makes the engine smell fresh, like a misty sunrise in the boreal forest.

Location?

How long can a grown man be seen driving around on that yellow dildo before he snaps back into reality and decides he is too ridicules for even his distorted reality. What about when someone shows him a picture of himself with the matching piss yellow helmet. IN PUBLIC......

Wait...... You got an email from... A A Ron?????

What about oil? What do you guys run? I've been running Super Tech 0-20, and my mileage has gotten about 12-13% better. Bike runs smoother, and is quicker too. Might run about 5 or 10 degrees warmer though.

I'm loving the Pirelli angel GT's . wear is outstanding. If you take the bird to the track, or are a canyon carver that doesn't care about the short life, the Dunlop sport Q series stick like glue....they give it up quick if you push it hard.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/brakes-operation-of-the-master-cylinder.159167/

Did you locate a fluid return passage in the master cylinder?

It's really distracting when the rear locks up and stays that way.

A rebuild kit won't fix a plugged relief passage.

Have you cleaned and inspected the bar mounted cylinder? Did you check the relief passage to see if is clogged?

Awesome! If I were closer....... Love that and the Chevy SS.

That's a novel modification...

Oh, and set it up where the mice can get to the top near the string. Or put a section of 2x4 up to the rim.