jon haney

If the idle noise you described does not go away when you pull the clutch lever in, it might be the cam chain tensioner, or "lifter" as the book calls it. Easy fix. The whine on decel in 1st gear is something of a mystery. The last Bird I sold is the only one I ever heard do this. Had the engine apart, but couldn't find a cause. I sold it a couple years ago to an older gentleman in Missouri (from this forum). It's probably not the one I had, since he seemed to be real happy with it (last I heard), and don't think he would sell it this quick. BTW, nice looking Z-rex.

Nice seat warmer.

Probably 10 years ago I ordered a carb from Ebay for my Dad's CM200. Worked great with no adjustments. I do recall being extremely surprised. Sold the bike, so don't know about longevity.

So, now I'm wondering where this (mis)information comes from. Don't think Scotty just pulled this out of his ass. My guess is that some, or several, car manufacturers feed this info to students in their certified training courses, and maybe, under a very specific set of circumstances, damage could be done. I'm thinking amperage spike, rather than voltage, but I agree that that shouldn't be able to happen. Seems like it's what I like to call, CYA info.

Yes, he is annoying to listen to, and videos could be half the time, but I love the little pictures he posts at random in the corner of the screen. Most of them are pretty funny. As far as him being incorrect, I can't remember anything specific that he has presented that I thought was completely wrong. Do you have any examples?

You have a lot of work ahead of you. I have not ever had to restore chrome, but I think I would take all the parts to a place that could re-chrome them. Not sure how much that costs, but probably too much for what you are trying to do. Have you checked the fuel tank for rust? You may want to split the cases just enough to re-seal them. Also, the oil injection system on those was a weak point. If it fouls plugs a lot, it's likely over-oiling. I believe you can pitch the oiler, and pre-mix the fuel, but you should consult a 2-stroke specific forum before doing so.

Probably because it wasn't self-driving. 😆

I agree with Tomek on this. Clean, clean, clean. If storing in a hot AZ garage for more than a week or two, I would drain the float bowls. It stored for more than a couple months, use fuel preservative and/or non-ethanol gas.

If you can find a crimping tool that has spacing that closely matches the spline spacing, you could make a corrugated shim to wrap around.

I doubt that he had an answer for you, and/or didn't want to tell you. LOL. I don't think "damage" is the proper word. "Made incorrectly" is more fitting. My guess is that one little plate didn't get the proper heat treating before assembly, and fatigued. I've worked at a manufacturing facility for 22 years now, and still get surprised once in awhile at people's ability to get shit wrong. Hell, I could be wrong.

You're assuming he damaged it, but the picture I saw was showing a single plate on a Hi-Vo chain that split. The rest looked fine. That's why I called it a "WTF" failure.

That's Tina Fey from SNL. She's humpable.

Typo, or happy accident? LOL.

So, your Bird is more of a drinking buddy, then a mistress? I get it now.🍺

Non of this matters is Tomek's case, because he had what we call a true "what the fuck!" failure, that no one would suspect/catch until it went boom. I'm surprised all it did was spin a bearing. Actually, thinner oil probably made it last longer.

I run 0W-40 Amsoil in my Busa drag bike, but also run an extra quart, to insure the oil pick-up stays submerged. The lighter oil helps negate some of the horsepower loss associated with higher than stock oil level. For road-racing application, I would never run a viscosity other than the factory recommendation, unless the motor had been modified in a way that would require thinner or thicker oil. For street duty, thinner oil might net you a couple more MPG, but I wouldn't feel comfortable giving up the safety margin.

I'm thinking you should invest in a "stunt cage". Poor bike. That's like taking a picture of your Grandma or Grandpa before helping them up, after you knocked them down.

To summarize: Makes the power-band more tractable.

I think I need his scale for my bathroom. Not buying the 451. If it had CF wheels, fairings (including tank), and sub-frame, it might be close. Pretty sure thats a TI pipe.

Very nice way of saying I'm old. LOL.

Just picture yourself doing 100+ MPH, tight corner coming up quick, grab a handful of brake lever, and the discs are ripped from the wheel. You know the rest. My advise? If possible, I would use the discs that were meant for the wheel you are going to use.

Not sure you can get those in stainless. Maybe after-market covers come with s.s. screws?

That was my second guess. The kid that bought my other Bird did the same thing, only he went with white fairings. It looked pretty good, too. Don't remember what brand he bought, but he said they fit very well for China stuff. Haven't seen him since before covid.

Please tell me you haven't put additional scuffs on my baby, already. I miss her.

LMAO. That's brilliant.