jon haney

Pardon my lack of precision. Allow me to re-state: "No noticeable lag."

True, but there is no lag in response time on my mouse.

LOL. I know, but I had to list something I could change that was a benefit, and that was the only thing I had. However, you can have multiple levels of T/C, as in "adjustable". Most modern sport-bikes, and a few cars, have that ability. The stuff I'm talking about is not 4WD specific. BTW, "friction and mass" are easier to repair on the trail than electrical components. Don't get me wrong, I like a lot of the electrical "improvements", but I want them adjustable, so I can feel more connected to the vehicle, not isolated from it. The Pedal Commander works (to varying degrees), but it's no substitute for instant throttle response. Good news is, it's adjustable. Imagine if your cursor was .5 seconds behind when you move your mouse. That is how I describe a modern vehicles throttle response (that doesn't have a sport mode).

I might have to look into a Gladiator. My Frontier has a button to turn off T/C. That's it. No other adjustments. As far as "dumb it down", I'm mostly talking about throttle response, ignition timing, and fuel mapping. With "throttle by wire" they can program a delay vs. the pedal position to improve fuel economy, emissions, and keep you from hurting yourself with all that HP. This would be fine for economy-mode, but I wish we could program all this stuff out. Plug-in programmers help, but very little. The Pedal Commander can make a big difference, but not as good as direct connection to the throttle plate. My truck has a manual trans, so take-offs are good, but it pulls harder in 2nd than it does in 1st, so I know they are retarding the power somehow. If I didn't race, probably wouldn't care as much. Thinking about a custom build for my next truck. Hope I can afford it.

Of course, it "can", but with production vehicles, it will always be a poor simulation, because they must "dumb it down" for the average driver. My dream is that all production vehicles would be completely programmable for personal preferences (within reason). Throttle response, traction control, stability control, cruise control, and settings would default to your key as soon as you start the vehicle. Yes, I know this technology is already available in some, but not all vehicles, like trucks. Every time I get into mine, cruise on, TC off. Sometimes I forget. Truck likes to remind me with a huge stumble when pulling out from the neighborhood into rush hour traffic.😡

This would be like a diabetic being able to have cake, eat it, gain no weight, and not elevate their blood sugar. Might be possible to simulate that with a vehicle that has an electric motor at each wheel, and some fancy controls. I'm sure you have dreamed of this, no?

I have had two trucks with the "active brake" system. A 2012 F-150 FX-2, and now a 2017 Frontier Pro-4x. Both appeared AWOL, unless it was real slick. One-wheel peel for anything other than snow or ice. For rock crawling, of course a selectable locker is king. Not many rocks around here. I'm mostly on pavement or the occasional dirt road. I doubt I will ever get into the stuff you guys do. I'm just a different kind of driver. I put an Auburn Gear LS in the F-150, which was okay. The frontier now has a Detroit Trutrac, which makes no noise, and if you are on the gas, both wheels are rotating together. If I had more power, dry pavement power-slides would have me on a first name basis with the local tire store. When it gets slippery, I have traction control, which is awesome in 4 high. For dry conditions, it's too sensitive, and turned off.

Every truck (any size) should come with a rear axle limited-slip (or better) as standard, and not that bull-shit "active-brake" LS they advertise as a suitable substitute. That has to be the biggest joke in the truck world.

That would certainly put my ass farther off the ground, if you know what I mean. 🚀

LOL. How much you trying to sell it for?

I agree. An acquaintance of mine bought the first 2000 model in Wichita, in copper. He had a black pin stripe applied between the two colors, that made it extra hot. IMHO.

It appears that only the brake calipers (and rotors) are non-stock, but certainly look like Gen 1 Busa.

If you are talking about the largest black wire, any engine case bolt should work, but ideally you make it one that is close to the starter for best voltage and amps, since that takes the most power.

That's how I did it with a Ford 4000 and front bucket. More than once. Third time I needed a big winch. Hard to walk it back when one side is buried in the ditch, and your rear box blade is still sitting on the edge of the road with the 3-point all the way up. My dad was pissed.

It takes real talent to get a rig like that stuck, where it would require a winch to get it out. You did say he owned a Harley, though.

There's an exhaust style I've never seen. Seems out of place. I Wonder what it sounds like?

Wouldn't the loc-tite come through the coil and get on the bolt? How would you keep them separate? Sooo, after the coil is installed with loc-tite, you let it set, and chase the threads with a tap before installing the bolt?

Quasi-Moto??

I wouldn't do it. And if you do, use a teeny-tiny drop of low strength. If it comes out, you can always go back with Loc-tite.

Slappy and Oscar

Plus 1 on left-handed drill bits. Usually start drilling, and they back right out from the vibration and light turning force. I'm guessing the bolt rusted into the fairing stay? They are supposed to be zinc-plated, but I guess that can wear off. Is the bolt broke, or just the Allen head is FUBAR'd? If it is rusted in there, a new/used fairing stay might be a lot less work.

LOL.

Please direct me to where I can buy either of those batteries (sized for cranking Bird) at those prices.

LOL. Owner's name must be P.T. Barnum.