jon haney

FYI, to tighten the tension, as Poida suggested, turn the screw counter-clockwise while the engine is idling, and listen for the same noise.

Not as redneck then as I am now, so didn't think about it. It was 1989, I think. Probably would have fucked up the wheel, and made it impossible to drive.

My jack and lug wrench were behind one of the jump seats. It was an extended cab. FYI, with a completely flat front tire, you couldn't get the jack under the factory specified jacking point. Found this out in the rain, of course. At least I had a 2x8 for cribbing.

LOL. That how it was on my 87 Ford Ranger. You would think when he checked the oil (If he ever did), he would wonder what those "rods" were for. Guess not.

If not crawling under the car, it would be pointless.

ROFLMAO! I'd call Carlos old, but I think I might have a couple years on him. Sunstar or Vortex for me.

Got curious, and went to look at BB gear prices vs. Busa gear prices. SUZUKI, YOU FUCKING THIEVING BASTARDS! 30% more money, for 50% less quality, and 10 times the production volume. Okay, fine, you make more HP, so 25% less quality. ass holes. Wish I could drop a Bird trans into my Busa drag bike. At least it would shift better.

Didn't realize they had plated cylinders, but understand why that would be a risk. So, you bought 3 gears (2 being sliders), a fork, and 6 bolts for $300? That sounds like a bargain to me.

Very unusual for 6th to go out, unless you have excessive shift-drum wear, or a fork or shift-shaft is bent. You could have the trans under-cut while it's out. That should fix it for good. I think I would have bought new cam chains, but guessing they are a total pain to replace. If you can find a shop that can mill a little off the block, you can tighten up that squish area some more. That's what I did to my drag Bird in 2008, per your advice. Sure did boost the torque. Not sure it would be worth it for a touring bike, but figured I'd through it out there. I wonder if those pistons would fit in a bird motor that had been bored 2mm over? Pin size the same? Used ones on Ebay would be cheaper than a piston kit.

Just put a magnet over the end of the tube, and go do a big wheelie. 😜

Make sure to check all the wiring behind the headlight that might have gotten pinched during the crash. Some tracks will let you run a fuel-injected bike without a kill switch, if your stock "tip-over" switch is functional. Also, tell the track tech you only have a 30-shot, and maybe they'll let you slide on the diaper requirement. Or find a track that isn't NHRA or IHRA approved. They are more lax on things like that. Definitely get leathers, though. Motorcyclegear.com has some great deals.

Sarcasm aside, even this pessimist believes they will at least replace the chain, because of the way it failed. Would be very hard, if not impossible, to blame installation.

I would be very surprised, if they offered anything more than to replace the chain and sprockets. Don't hurt to try, I guess.

Party pooper.

If reusing the same gears, I wouldn't think a bearing replacement would throw off the mesh pattern enough to matter, assuming the replacement bearing has identical dimensions to the old one, and the mesh pattern was good before dis-assembly.

We'll see.

Welcome to old age. Still nothing compared to what a lapping day does to me. I was a whiny baby on Friday at RacerXX.

Tuners are a joke for a Nissan Frontier. Already have the Injen version of a Pedal Commander, which helps throttle response, but there is room for improvement. I can get a wiring harness that lets you engage the locker any time, but I would want to leave it on most of the time, and these lockers are not known for their durability. Plan to check torque tonight.

Pulling the axles will suck. Wheel bearings are tapered and also new. Maybe I should shoot for the 40 with everything on? I had to change axles to put a Trutrac in place of the factory E-locker POS. Open Diff in a truck is just plain stupid. Especially, when the E-locker only works in 4-low. I'm 99.99 % street duty, IN KANSAS, so the E-locker is worthless even in 2-wheel.

Took me a couple reads to understand it. Since I didn't mess with the pinion shaft at all, I will assume its torque is correct. After getting the proper gear tooth alignment, it appears that I am to put a torque wrench (set to 22 in-lbs) on the pinion nut. Then tighten the threaded adjusters evenly until it takes at least 22 in-lbs, but no more than 40, to start turning the pinion shaft. Shit! Looks like I'm going back under the truck. I was turning it easily by hand with the drive shaft attached. No way that was 22 in-lbs. At least I can check it before I pull the cover. Thanks, Oscar

Just got done installed a TruTrac in my Nissan Frontier. It has the M226 axle, which is the Super 44, and has the threaded adjusters for carrier spacing. I couldn't find any info on how tight (torque rating?) those should be, so I just made them "snug". Anyone know??

Exactly.

Interesting??? I would be flabber-gasted, if they actually paid to fix any of the resulting damage. If you had crashed, and were injured, and threatening to sue, then maybe.

JB weld is way over-rated, and would never last for this application. I would definitely file a warranty claim, and if you bought the chain and sprockets as a kit, ask them to replace the sprockets, too. There is no way a pin should shear that easily on such a newish chain, even if it was a 520 chain. On the cover, as long as the bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder are okay (the long ones), you should be fine. Unless, you break another chain, of course. Consider yourself lucky to not have to replace the engine cases. I think that steel spacer Honda uses behind the cover was a good idea, and probably saved you from a much more emotional post.

Is your neighbor's 2500 a diesel? If so, no pumping losses. One of the many reasons why diesels are more fuel efficient.