jon haney

Thanks, Carlos. However, after reading "Beetle running gear", I feel like a beautiful women has just undressed in front of me, only to reveal a penis. Sigh.

Tomorrow morning is the first (sort of) cold weather test. The forecast low is 41 degrees. All I did was clean the terminals, and make sure all the bolts were tight on the battery cables. Wife works from home on Wed. and Thurs. so she can take him to school, if it don't start. If it fails, I'll get a new battery, and try again Thursday morning. I did order new Nissan battery clamps, and ground cable, so that will get done, anyway. Hopefully, this weekend, if they shipped them yesterday.

LOL. My son talks like he wants to keep it forever. Probably end up as wealthy as that truck guy over in the 10mm socket thread of the Atlas tear-down. Can't remember who posted that pic.

For now, just the garage.

Will do. Yes, the battery cable ends have been replaced with the lead style (like from the 70's). Not sure if did it, as this truck was my father-in-law's that he purchased new. Also, I charged the battery last night with a very old, heavy, but functional charger, and then put my tester on it. It read 12.75 volts (engine off). Then hit it with the 50 amp test load and it indicated "weak", so going to start with a new battery, and then some of the other stuff mentioned. I'm curious to know how lead terminals can be a problem, if you keep them cleaned?

Definitely, checking that this weekend.

LOL. Surprised he's not more vocal about it.

Looks like someone did a brake caliper upgrade. Those caliper brackets look just like the ones I bought, so I could mount CBR600 brakes on my '06 SV650. Was definitely worth the effort. Sorry, no advice on the buttons.

Oscar, I think the only person that would hate cold-weather diagnostics more than me is Carlos, but I'm sure that is what it will take to find the problem. No alarm on the truck, except for factory. I need to try the other key to see if it's the "chip". I'm 99.99% sure it isn't the battery. Same one as last winter, 2 years old, cranks strong for as long as you dare abuse the starter and cables, but I might try a jump, as it's easy and free. I did a little research this morning after posting, and at least got some ideas where to start. One person mentioned a faulty fuel pump wiring harness. Another mentioned corroded fuel pump relay. Back in March, I listened for the fuel pump "whir", and remember hearing it, but will reaffirm that next time. Mike, I'm with you on having a fuel pressure sensor. Should be standard. Scan tool could be 20 years old. It was my dad's, and certainly made before the truck. No idea on the brand.

I pride myself on being able to fix most anything mechanical, so this post is me being desperate (to not have to take it to a shop). My son's 2007 Nissan Frontier V6, 150K miles, has an (somewhat intermittent) issue with cold weather. If it's below 40 degrees (only seems to be in the morning when stone cold), it will crank, but doesn't want to start/fire. Not even a little bit. It's like all the spark plugs/coils are disconnected, or all of the injectors are disconnected. I have smelled the exhaust pipe after cranking for 10-15 seconds, and get no raw fuel smell, so I'm thinking it's something in the fuel system that won't let the injectors fire. Check engine light is not on, and there are no codes. It had this problem last winter, too, but son wasn't driving to school until late Feb. Didn't happen enough times to want to dig into it. Furbird, is this anything you ever heard about from your Nissan dealer days?

Where can I see and read more about this one? My brain is in full engineer mode.

Don't think polarity matters on a single-pole, single-throw relay. It certainly doesn't on the switch terminals. Looking at the diagrams above, the fuel-cut relay, or what powers it is the problem. The engine stop relay doesn't appear to provide power or ground for the fuel-cut relay. Good luck.

We did my Dad's new garage floor with Thompson's Water Seal (before the Gov. mandated formula change). Probably about 1990. Ten years later you could still easily wipe up most spills with little to no evidence, except maybe the high-traffic areas. We did two coats right after we finished the roof and walls.

Relax. You killed the mouse when you turned the headlights on. Problem solved.

Really? I don't think she looks anything like you.

If you are doing track days, or you're just a very aggressive canyon rider, I recommend the de-link. Otherwise, don't bother unless you really need new brake lines and don't want to spend a fortune for the whole kit, or a lot of time bleeding the system.

I remember this one. Love the short hair. Love the bike, too. I know that was Kent Stotz's pro-street race bike, but was that his wife?

Unless it has been sitting completely empty of fuel, get a new FPR (fuel pressure regulator).

If not for that slipper clutch, I might have been planning a long weekend trip the Land of Lincoln. Does the VFR also have a slipper clutch?

I've jump started a motorcycle with a car battery (not mounted in a car), but the bike battery still had 12 volts (barely) with no load, and I only touched the clamp to the positive terminal long enough to start the bike. Like 5 seconds. If the bike battery had a very low charge (like 6 volts), I could see it being similar to putting a 50 amp charger on the thing. Boom!

Aluminum, stainless, and brass are the sluts of the nut and bolt world. They love to mingle.

Sounds to me like you're completely out of brake fluid in the rear system.

Was the interior of that yellow behemoth done in shag carpet? LOL. That is a special kind of ugly.

My old Dy-Mag wheels would have looked great with that paint. I also like the gold wheels, but I'm thinking the polished part of the rims would look better as red on the front, and black on the rear.

If we start talking about seats, you win. I still have a great ass, according to my wife. In the knee department, I got something for ya.👴