jon haney

Went 1.5 years on a chipper/shredder. Started on the first pull. To be fair, that was non-ethanol gas.

Don't think much of Sta-Bil, but been using Briggs & Stratton "Fresh-Start" for over 10 years with zero issues. It costs half of what Sta-Bil does, and takes half as much per gallon. Guaranteed to keep gas fresh for 2 years.

I vote you get a new o-ring, specifically Viton material. That will handle almost anything petroleum. Buna-N or Nitrile should too. Don't know what the Chinese used. Any place that repairs hydraulics should have something, or know where to send you. RTV Silicone could work for sealing, but might be difficult to get apart later.

I doubt it, but a 929 or 954 engine might.

Use Honda Bond, or something similar from any of the bike manufacturers.

Went back through my browser history, and couldn't duplicate what I saw the first time. WTF. Guess I'm just getting old. It's like what SierraKLR said. The price range they give doesn't necessarily reflect the market in your particular area, or what you can actually sell it for. I probably could have gotten a $1000 more for mine, but I dislike the whole selling process, and I knew it was going to a Bird enthusiast.

Interesting. I just went to NADA to confirm, and it doesn't go older than a 2000 model (at least for Honda's). Pulled that year for my area and added some accesseries. Average retail was under $2500. I think the fellow on FB is full of shit, unless he is not talking about USD. BTW, it didn't ask for mileage.

Use a master cylinder from an F4I. It looks identical to the stock Bird M/C. You could also use the master from a Hayabusa, but you'll probably want to change the clutch M/C as well, so they match. Gen 2 only for the clutch.

For review, and possible areas to improve? I've never done it, but I only do track days for fun.

For a Bird engine, I would go with Webcam. You will likely have to send in your/some OEM cams to get them welded and re-ground. Would be a miracle, if someone had a set on the shelf. Would be a dusty shelf, for sure.

$100 dollars is cheap. $35 is STUPID cheap, and I would never buy that one unless it was used OEM. OzarXX 2018 my stator fried on my Triumph, and I rode it over a 100 miles on battery alone, with a couple of bump starts, of course. Replaced it with a Rick's (still working great), and then paid $55 for a R/R (not Rick's) that lasted 15 months and barely 4000 miles. I kept the OEM R/R just in case. Glad I did. It wasn't bad. Tossed the fried cheap unit, and so far, so good. FYI, if you run a lithium battery, and your R/R shorts out, well just add a new battery to the list. Some people say you can bring a Lifo back to life, but from a 1/4 volt? Would love to see that. No, I don't still have the dead battery for you to try.

I doubt that chip is any cause for concern. Who made it, would be more my concern. Is is from Rick's Motorsport? How much did you pay?

My wife is not a gear head by any definition, so she believes something that used to be bathed in motor oil is not to be put in something that cleans eating utensils. I live with it.

Tomek, you are either single, or have a very understanding wife/SO to be putting engine parts in the dishwasher. Wish I could do that. My wife gave me the stink-eye for putting an un-lubed bearing in the oven, so it would drop right on a rear differential.

When you said "tread compound layer", Did you really mean "cord layers"? Don't think the tread or rubber cares which direction it gets pulled. Other than that, I think you are right.

If the bike itself hasn't been lowered much, they're not too bad. Just have to watch the right turns. Of course, anyone running a sidewinder on the street is not worried about cornering clearance.

It doesn't, but if you're hard on the fronts, the rear is likely off the pavement anyway. My guess is, it also allows greater control of rear trail-braking. See these skeleton rotors on a whole lot of drag bikes.

Good story, Oscar. A friend of mine (Lud) used to have an 89 GSXR 750 with a Bassani pipe on it and no baffle. Loud as hell. We were at one of the local street racing roads one afternoon, just chilling (at that exact moment anyway), and four cop cars rolled in. Two from each end of the road. Wanted to see DL's and proof of insurance from everybody. We were all covered, so they started looking at exhausts. One guy got a pass for a fairly quiet Yosh system. However, Lud knew he was fucked. When the cop asked him to fire it up, he just pinned the throttle. Took every fiber of my being not to fall on the ground laughing. The cop almost hurt himself slapping his hands over his ears. Even he was laughing a little at the obvious display of honesty. Yes, Lud got a ticket, but pretty sure he framed it.

John, you sure that is factory? Neither of mine had 5 extra bolt-holes, and pretty certain the cut-outs were a little bigger than those.

Dammit. First time I screwed up the year..............this year.

Definitely, but not by much. Look at the width of thicker steel under the teeth. Checking Ebay, it looks as though Super-sprox has upped their game, and has some all steel versions that look as light as the one you have.

I did that too. Worked great, but a 4mm shim was about all my modest inseam could handle. Side stand could be a little longer as well. With a 6mm shim, I doubt you could spin the back tire while on the center stand on level ground.

Racetech was a huge improvement for me. Maybe because I was 210-215 lbs. suited. Picked up about a second per lap at the next lapping day. Of course, this was like12 years ago.

My 99 is for sale (not officially), but as you can tell, I'm not close to you. Also, I have some mods not on your list (and non that you mentioned were okay). Mine is only showing about 26K miles, but there is a reason for that. PM me, if you're interested in details. SOLD NOW. 1-12-20

Yes.