SwampNut

I will check out Baxley. Is this something where you just ride into it, get off the bike, and walk away?

This looks like a great way to get the bike into the same spot every time, and minimize space. Anyone use one? Know what it's called or who makes it? I'd like to put the Zero in it, 500 pounds. The Zero leans over particularly far and I'd like to maximize garage space.

MDF and a sealant. Or plastics like HDPE (King Starboard).

Poly is the clear winner here. It's the glossiest semi-gloss I've ever seen, and not sure I like that though.

So it's just UV epoxy? I have used that on very small things. Upside: It's perfectly clear and won't change wood color at all. Downside: It's perfectly clear and won't change wood color at all. Also, look at this retarded shit. The child safety cap glued itself closed. When I really tried hard to move it, the entire thing came off. So much for "safety" and now I need to find another container for it, I guess.

Oh no, another thing to spend hours obsessing over. Have you used it?

I think I like the poly. It's also fast, and super easy, low VOC, no cleanup. There is no way to truly get this in a photo, but the grain looks 3D and crystalline with the poly, not the oils. (Air bubbles are my carelessness since it's just a test) The others lack depth and pop.

I should add that "curing" in the oil sense is days and weeks, not hours.

You can *generally* cross between any finishes. I've put lacquer over oil many times (darken it, then get the great surface coat of lacquer). And this will blow your mind, you can put water poly over oil! You have to let the oils fully cure. Oils generally don't "film" or have a hard surface, they go into the wood, and self-oxidize into polymers. So many people top coat them with a surface product. In fact it might be the most common thing, oil then poly. You can put oil poly over water stain, no problem. There are some issues with some finishes over stearate-based stains and finishes, those are rare. And varnish can have its own details, that I've never paid attention to. Shit, maybe I should test some of that too. I can't decide whether this project should have semi-gloss or glossy finish. Oh, and you should never use semi-gloss for base coats, only 1-2 tops. It has additives to kill the gloss, so if you make layers of it, the look will be poor, and cloudy. You won't see it consciously, it just looks out of focus subtly.

Most finishes darken the wood, which is neither bad nor good, just a thing. Lacquer barely does, and just covers the surface. I've been a lacquer fan for a long time, but it's getting harder to find, and my favorite brand is totally gone. Environmental concerns, some claim. And it's a motherfucker to work with, both in danger, and the entire prep/clean process. So I did a test here with a few much easier finishes. They all seem the same so far. Coat 1. I'll add one more poly (per directions) and a couple more of the oils. I might topcoat the oils with the poly, dunno. But stay tuned for progress. Brush-on oil based poly, tung oil and varnish blend, and boiled linseed oil. Below is a raw sample. I had been shooting for only slightly dark/wet look, but I'm not setting that as a must yet.

I added a tall (1.4) shot of espresso to the mix today. Coffee vanilla ice cream. Pretty damn good.

Believe it or not, this is a factory special edition, with a certificate of authenticity signed by MV's CEO.

After a long time of not having any cow juice, now I know it makes me feel slightly off. Nothing I'd normally notice. Moriah gets digestive issues, which she took for granted like most people, until trying an elimination diet. So now it's pretty easy to say no to thing that will make me feel crappy later. Well, unless some really good whisky comes out. Sometimes we all go full retard.

One-person ice cream maker. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y4596RG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

PIff, Piffles 2, and Jade are back, in a new and much larger theater. I haven't seen the new place yet. We were going to get a cigar together and then the girlfriend had something come up. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DME9NPI?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's this protein powder (vanilla cupcake flavor), plus oat milk, and then the normal process. Oat milk is the only fake milk that foams and builds body just like real milk, maybe better. It's fantastic for coffee foam. Pretty good nutritionally. We just recently tried cow juice again and decided the oat milk is actually better for coffee.

This was suggested to me by Piff the Magic Dragon (AGT, Vegas show, etc). Protein meal drink made with oat milk, in a $25 personal-size ice cream maker. Feels decadent, low calorie, high nutrition.

That's my only use of sugar. Erythritol does give some amount of body like real sugar, but doesn't have the caramel goodness of raw sugar, or...black sugar. The bomb. Luckily I didn't inherit the desire for proper Cuban coffee and use only about 8-10 grams (30 calories).

Our outside humidity is typically under 20 all day, BTW, and inside is 45-52. I haven't had anything fail after it goes inside, the bullshit happens in the shop. Maybe temp changes are partly to blame, or just the internal stresses, dunno. I don't know what the average is, it goes way up at night obviously and way down during the day. I'll get this out of the way now...inside RH is 46 right now since the AC raises the RH. Yes, that's right, it does. That should be it's own thread, like talking oil.

It can't go anywhere other than against a wall or something else, it would look retarded. The legs are flush and straight on the back, angled and inset front. It will go against the wall, I just need to decide exactly how. Cut the baseboard...cut the legs around the baseboard...dunno. You guys sound like Dave and modifying cars. I'd rather have everything be perfect and deal with the consequences than worry about some potential minor issue.

The problem is that it's NOT touching the wall, because of the baseboards. I want it to be. How would a table rub the paint, and why would I care? I guess the answer is no. Never considered it. I consider wall paint to be an expendable wear item and I touch it up regularly.

This door has been in a controlled environment for 17 years. These and many others came from Arkansas, where they were stored semi outdoors (shed), and have been stored in AZ in a garage. No issues. I'm not sure if you're conflating air RH with wood EMC (equilibrium moisture content) which are two totally different things, and a huge RH change is only a tiny EMC change. I've never bought anything from a local sawmill and have no idea what standards they use. The only thing I'm aware of being local is mesquite which is used for those "live edge" tables and stuff like that, not kiln dried at all (just left outside). Lowe's and HD wood definitely is not properly dried. Everything else I buy is properly kiln dried (per my own wood meter). So my experience is that yes, things are dried to a standard, except at the big box stores. Sometimes big box wood is cold to the touch, it's so fucking wet. Again, the maple legs of that table were in AZ for 15-20 years and still got crazy when cut. This is just experience, no point in arguing about it.

On a tangent during a meeting, one 'tard went on a rant about the "medical industry" telling people to cut back on salt. This is dumb, she said, as evidenced by our ancestors eating a lot of it because it was needed as a preservative. She actually had a ten pound bucket of something called "Russel's real salt" next to her damn desk to show on video. WTF? After the rant, I asked, "You mean back when the average lifespan was half of what it is now?" Mass laughter. Moran.

What am I missing? Why isn't that something that requires him to pay to have it removed? It seems like just junk.

It's a reasonable speculation, but all wood should be dried to a specific industry standard level. They don't dry a piece bound for AZ differently from a piece bound for AL. Also if my humidity got as ridiculous as 60%, I'd be on a U-haul in minutes. I've done a number of wood exchanges and shipments. There's no obvious correlation on warping and changes. In a little while, I could lay out a few things that were shipped here from the SE and see how they are looking. I talk to woodworkers all over the world all the time. Since one person here has singular experiences unlike anyone else's, I just don't know what else to say. One of my favorite YouTube woodworkers recently moved from here to CO, and now to MI. His biggest problems have been tool rust, not wood movement. Again, the top thing I see is simply internal stress. And pretty much all woodworkers agree on that. The flame/tiger maple legs on that bench have been in this shop since 2011, and in the previous shop for a couple years before that. Cut them, and...they twist. I just realized something idiotic. I had meant this to be against a wall, in our entry hallway. But didn't account for baseboards. Duh. Sigh. Also learned that apparently (per the wood shop people) lacquer is becoming difficult to get due to environmental issues. My go-to lacquer (and many peoples') is no longer able to source one component, and is gone. So I have just about enough to finish this piece, to hopefully completely match another project I recently finished, and is across the hallway from it. I also just realized that the dogs have made the bottom part of the walls filthy, but that's outside the environment as far as my normal viewing angle goes.