SwampNut

It's not a direct translation. The English was "here's a summary" while the Spanish was more detailed. It's been interesting to watch the show Money Heist in Spanish, with the subtitles. All my life I'd never really thought about how some things translate so poorly. And that Spanish overall seems to have more words but spoken faster, so in the show she has constant pauses to let the subtitles catch up. They did a great job on it.

You didn't quite catch what we were saying. There is a wax-filled capsule that automatically opens the throttle when cold. As the engine warms up, it slowly allows the throttle to close. Cold engines need more throttle and a richer mixture. When it's working well, you don't notice this because it works at the same rate as the change in temp-based idle speed. My idle starts normal when cold, then drops a lot as the throttle closes too soon. Yours seems to be doing the opposite. I don't recall what it takes to remove that part, but if not hard, I'd start by doing that and see if the problem stops.

+1 on what Jon said. Mine is failing in the other direction, idle drops really low (doesn't stall). It's a shit design like the CCT. Vacuum leak can cause some erratic idle, but I don't think it can send it up that high on this vehicle.

Yes, but the rest of us take that well. It's what makes us all men and brothers. You give your best friends the most shit. You should see my best friend talk about me sinking a Jeep, and me about always fucking up GFCI installs (he does commercial work with no GFCIs, always gets confused with them.

Nah, you asked a question that belongs here. Not your fault someone refuses to let go of the past and holds it against you.

Dude, there is no fucking way any human can remember all the vehicles you've had.

I regret my part in it, for the annoyance it creates for others.

+1 +2

If you start with something like acetone/ATF mix, if it doesn't work, then the acids will never work either since the surfaces are coated. If you start with an acid, and it doesn't work, you will have acid inside a joint still doing its thing. Hmmm. You can work your way up from safe-ish acids like vinegar. Also, vinegar is the best for removing aluminum oxide, either as paint prep or to release stuck parts. So yeah, that. Oh, fuck, I just realized I'm recommending vinegar instead of acetone AGAIN.

I think one thing was that I told Dave to use something he didn't approve of, and Tomek assumed I was saying "you are wrong." When all I was doing was telling Dave to use what he had on hand, was safe, and things based on knowing Dave for...shit, 20 years now. There are often many right answers in the real world, but apparently not on his planet. I can only think that there are dozens of other irrational assumptions like that behind all the issues. Anyway, ignoring is working best. Just don't see one word.

A mid-power, mid-size scooter or maybe even a small one seems to meet your mission really well. Why not? I'll ride anything, even a Chinese 50, and like it.

A very large portion of Jeep JKs in the 2012-2018 range develop a leak at the seam on the driver's side near the bottom. All in the same place. I replaced my radiator, as I was unsure of Bar's in a modern vehicle. After this discussion I'd probably try it. I've never fully understand the physics of why it works. I can picture a couple of processes going on there, but would love to see some documentation on it.

My Gladiator is definitely the fastest on the track. I have two years/four free oil changes so I guess it will just get six month changes of whatever the dealer feels like putting into it. I still don't even know what arguments Tomek is having with me, or that he "beat" me on. I've been making fun of a couple of things that I didn't even know we were arguing about, and he still reacts to years later. But I don't actually know why. If you try something rational like asking, all you get back is accusations of now trying to not fight, which is apparently unmanly. This all reminds me of a debate on the Jeep forums about putting a K&N in the Gladiator for more power. Of course I and a few others dispelled that bullshit, but one guy keeps arguing about how he once worked on an AMG where they saw "big gains" with a K&N. Sure, let's compare a 600 HP track car to a stock Gladiator, as evidence.

Not sure what you mean. All vehicle makers are being pushed by EPA to extend the oil change intervals and to run lighter oils. The balance of this is the only question, between engine life and economy/waste.

Everyone is wrong, and if you dare question anything, you're a moron and you're attacking. Ten minutes ago I was reading the oil specs for my new truck. It comes with, and they recommend 0W-20. There's a lot of weasel language in the oil section, but basically it comes down to recommending this for fuel economy. They "allow" other weights such as 5w-20, 10w-30, and similar ranges. So the recommendations may be pushed by EPA and not engine longevity. Interesting.

You shove it in between the fins, non-invasive. I've used them in the past (not for a bike).

Well, you seem to have just helped us prove that someone is a deranged cunt who can't let go of anything past.

Most of us just dropped a tooth on the front.

What do you prep your surface with before painting? Yak jizz, or some unprofessional bullshit like acetone.

They work with any 5800 series alarm. I can't use them with my 5200. Both new, one in the box. One or both free to whoever can use them.

I just shipped out a pretty big box with a Jeep cover for $14 including the box itself, and feel like it's really cheap. I'm not sure how much the extra charge is for going to a post office.

HUH?? A cross country small package went up less than a buck. Maybe you still ship at an actual post office and the counter rate is up? It's not double though, for sure.

What a chicken shit though...