SwampNut

I've used a whole bunch of different ones in the 600-1800 range and none have been bad. Cyberpower, APC, and others. They're all the same.

Go to Walmart and spend the $60 already, cheap fucker. "Will not turn the engine over" as in it tries and doesn't, or doesn't try at all? Do you have a charger with a starter mode?

I've got another set, same deal, if there are two takers.

I think speed won't matter. The bubble will stay up top. And the master has a way to reverse-bleed bubbles out. Oh, and on many masters it will spurt when you move the lever so watch for that.

I've been able to do this on a bicycle and then bleed by tapping the lever hard and fast. It shakes the bubbles back out. A motorcycle should in theory work better since the lines and holes are much bigger.

I reminded him to post here. Both were running when put away, and life got in the way of riding. He's been on the CBR email list for decades and I don't know him in 3D, but know he's not a liar.

No, motorcycle. Or did I get the number wrong? I didn't recognize it and didn't care so I didn't think about it. Yeah, that was it... Bike 1: 1998 Blackbird. 103K miles. In the shape you'd expect for that, and not running right now. Bike 2: 2004 919 (Hornet) I think about 25K miles. In better shape, but also not running.

I thought I might get your attention. Not sure why he hasn't posted yet, hehis wife seemed pretty motivated to get it and a 919 out of the way.

And there's another carbed non-runner inbound any moment now. Around PA I believe.

It's offroad recovery gear. The white thing is a 30' web strap for pulling. Shackle, gloves, instructions.

It's just a generic cable swaging tool from Amazon. I never use the terminal type ends, I loop the cable and use a standard swage. I make stuff for around the shop and the house. Like cables to keep our shed from blowing over in high winds. Loops on both ends for screws.

I have a bunch of 1/16th" cable and proper swaging tools. If you send me a length and an address, I'll send you cables that will last a long time.

And probably not one of these:

I misunderstood the part about that, and thought you removed stainless that they used to replace with copper.

The resistance could be a "buffer" or fuse of sorts. It may be part of the calculations on how the batteries charge and discharge. Having less resistance isn't necessarily a good thing.

That means that they are also resisting the charge current. That could be intentional, and could be a good thing.

Well, that tells us what a shitty conductor SS is. I looked it up, the resistivity of SS is 44x (fourty-four, not a typo) that of copper. Also learned brass is a better conductor than copper.

What's it like reaching that battery? I've never thought about where it is in the car and how it gets removed.

Fuck, that reminds me that we never finished the seat cover project. Still sitting right there on my old seat. I need to clean the shop. I have a Gunfighter and backrest, can supply measurements.

I had, and forgot that one. My favorite of all time was the Oki 900 and related car kit. I was big pimping.

Test 2.

Test, ignore. Also, my desk today: The 3390 works. Playing snake.

Testing, ignore.

This is now working for me, please confirm.