SwampNut

That whole 20 degrees cooler thing. They were popular and worked well in Tucson also. In fact I lived in at least one house that had both, so you could refrigerate for those awful 6-ish weeks and swamp the rest of the time. It was a lot like what you describe, with auto vents into the attic. Pressure would open them, same as a whole-house fan vent. An attic fan could help too. And I really need to renew the attic insulation, but finding someone without a referral is one of those things I hate.

The names are not unrelated. A whole-house swamp cooler is unheard of around here, except in old/shitty/small houses. I'm not sure why. Moving enough air for this space is probably one huge reason. I suspect there are other issues since I haven't seen one in any neighborhood I'd want to live in.

I'm not sure I understand. The peak cooling happens during the lowest (relative) humidity of course. The AH doesn't seem to vary much, so as temps change, RH does. It's typical for peak cooling to be at the same time as 10% or less outside. In a short part of the year we may have a few 50% days due to monsoons. I've never heard it called an economizer, but I've considered doing a whole-house fan for the MANY days when it's cold for part of the day, and hot for part. Also a big part of our cooling is from solar radiation, so it can be under 80 air temp and still need cooling. Any outside air would remove the humidity, and introduce dust and shit potentially.

I saw a few references to that, the question is what is "enough?" Everyone seems to talk about Southern humidity, not AZ humidity. The difference between bringing the air down from 80% outside versus bringing it up from 10% outside.

That's why it's so hard to get decent info. There are few places where these conditions exist. Even in Southern CA, the hot areas also have more humidity, commonly. I have set the humidifier to 40.

Relevant physics... Evaporating water consumes energy, cooling the house. So running the humidifier with heating is actually a fight. You have to heat the water to change its state. The type of humidifier doesn't change this; we have an ultrasonic but it doesn't change state. It aerosolizes the still-liquid water, which then can more easily absorb energy and change state. It's always about five degrees cooler near the humidifier. Simple rule of physics. The AC removes SOME water from the air, not all. And it reduces temp. RH is a ratio of temp and absolute humidity. The AC reduces AH, but *might* not lower RH because it's also cooling. From an AC tech: If you live where the air is extremely dry, perhaps with a RH less than 20%, it could be reasonable to use both at the same time. If you don’t let the RH increase to more than about 40%, the condenser on your AC will not become wet and the AC will not remove any moisture, i.e., there will be no latent heat load on your AC. But if the RH becomes too high because of the humidifier, the AC will remove part of it thereby increasing the latent heat load on your AC and running up your power bill unnecessarily.

I've been told several times that this is bad, according to "common knowledge." But I can't find any such thing when I google it. The most negative thing I can find is to be careful not to have the humidity go too high. We have an automatic humidifier, and my thought would be to set it around 45, maybe 40. Comments? Humidifiers in the Summer The issue is mostly present in the winter, but if you live in a dry climate such as here in San Diego, it’s possible to experience these symptoms all year. Even if you live in a very wet place, if it’s hot you’re probably running your air conditioner. That’s a sure way to dry out your home. Running a humidifier will help fight dry, itchy skin, even in the summer. Plus, did you know it can save you money? Think about it. Running a humidifier in tandem with your air conditioner means that your AC is cooling wet air. You know those ridiculously overpriced fan/spray bottles sold at amusement parks? It’s the same principle. Cooler air inside your home means you can raise the temperature on your AC. This in turns cuts your electric bill. Stop allergies and save money. It’s a win-win. When Should I Start Using Humidifier with Air Conditioner? Usually, in summer, we use air conditioners almost all the time. As I mentioned earlier, the air conditioner removes both moisture and heat while cooling our home. Due to dry air, you can have skin-related problems such as dryness, itchiness, etc. Besides, when the humidity becomes low, it can cause respiratory problems as well. If you have someone in your home who has asthma problems, you should be more concerned about the humidity of your home. So, if you’re currently facing these problems, you must need a vaporizer with your AC unit. Dryness itchiness Headaches Chapped Lips Nose Irritation, etc.

I'd heard that, but proved it wasn't true in my case at least. I put up reflective owls, and they worked perfectly for a month or two. But then the winds got them. It might be that the reflective stuff they hate simply works forever. On the permits, I don't qualify, but thanks to looking, I learned something. But...I had been told that harassing them was illegal. It's not. So shooting NEAR them is not illegal. Oops, I um, missed missing it. I was shooting for the eaves. No really. You're not in this for the hunting are you? I'll have them install the cables. Most that can happen is I waste a few dollars in parts if it doesn't work out.

Need a gillie suit, they are easily spooked. Janel has picked off a few by hiding under a blanket in their gazebo. The concern with pulleys would be a stuck wire between the pulley and edge. There shouldn't be much weight here, so I don't think there's much risk of kinking it over a large-diameter eye. Also thinking that maybe I should just use the 1/16" rope I have now? Still pretty damn strong, compared to the load of a plastic owl.

I am thinking 1/8" stainless rope and just large eyes, but looking at pulleys now. Pulleys add a failure point. Eyes could kink the wire, but...does it matter? I can always use the wire to pull a new wire if needed.

As part of having the house stucco fixed, the guy said he’d put up owls or other bird deterrents. But I just had another idea. I am thinking of making up some long stainless cable loops (I already have cable and tools) and have him hang those with metal eyes. Then I can hang a deterrent and send it up like a flag. When they inevitably get damaged by wind, I can pull it down and replace it. Thoughts? I can't see a downside, cost is near nothing. My house is very tall, I don't have/don't want ladders that can reach the eaves. So having him put one up in each of the affected corners would solve this.

Kite Hill is the real stand-out in the fake cheese industry. It just works. And it's actual whole food, not a bunch of oil pretending to be cheese. Here's a funny thing that happened with their goat cheese...I accidentally bought it when making a meal for a group where one person viciously HATES goat cheese. He took one bite and spit it out. "FUCKING GOAT CHEESE!" Ok, so it was realistic both to those of us who like it, and those who don't. Today I had their cream cheese. It's slightly lighter than Philly, but totally believable too. It wasn't as great as a high end cream cheese, but not a real loss either. Much like the goat cheese, I'm pretty sure if someone had it unknowingly they would not guess its fake. The cream cheese from Simple Truth is fucking garbage. Nothing about it says cream cheese. If I didn't tell you it was pretending to be that, you'd never guess it. And it's also full of junk ingredients. We bought some "brie" from Vegan Cheese Shop. Meh. You know it's not brie. It's not bad, and I'd buy it more as its own thing, but it's just way too expensive. Much like the plant milks, they can be their own thing and fulfill a role without tasting identical. Nothing wrong with that. I personally hate cow milk and always have, but I am fine with the fakes. So a net win for me. And coconut based "heavy cream" is actually much nicer in many ways than cow.

Light bars before winches and skids.

LOL. And yeah, that sucked. No reason for it, just DJI being the fucking scumbags that they are. The GPU power is there, the software is just a checkbox. Their excuse is the lack of anti-collision on the Mini, where the Air 2 series mostly can't run into anything. But lots of others have had follow modes with zero anti-collision for a long time. Just don't be a retard. The anti-collision isn't without penalty however. I still need to figure out easy ways around it. I wanted to fly between some close trees (but safe enough with care). Basically a tunnel of tree cover. Nope. Yes it can be disabled, I just need to make a button for it or something so I'm not digging through menus while trying to fly.

They literally sell pure alcohol to drop in your gas to remove the water. And now people think alcohol is causing the problem. I've heard this helps, but then, I've also had two strokes with clogged up carbs from sitting, so dunno.

The weight is under the registration requirement. It will warn you of the proximity to that type of airspace, but will let you fly, in my experience. You will not be allowed to fly very close to a major airport. I flew it right in a flight path once and I had to do an online permission request, which was approved in under one minute, and limited to 100 feet (or 200, maybe). But I was basically off the end of the runway by half a mile. I'm at a bit under four miles from a non-tower airstrip and while I technically must get permission to fly it legally, it is not restricted in the app. The restrictions seem really loose. Shit, I flew it here, and the only issue I had is while a Harrier flew directly over, I was forced to land.

I've only ever managed to make them worse.

I had to replace a failed hi/low switch once on a XX, and once on the China bike. I thought it was just me. Here's what worked VERY well in the XX... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NXS9RHB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A small mod of the brown adapter thingy was required, with a Dremel.

This is like new. No crashes, always in the case, and only 79 minutes of flight time. Why? I loved it so much that I then got an Air 2S, and then I loved that so much that I didn't fly the Mini 2 any more. The Mini is amazingly tiny and competent, but the camera on the Air 2S is so nice. I thought I'd fly the Mini when I wanted a pocket drone, but then, never did. I haven't flow it in months. It has everything that came with it, including the retail box, plus the stuff below. Fly More kit (three batteries, case, extra props, etc). Extended care coverage with damage and fly away protection, good until 10/1/22. Freewell bright day polarizing/ND lens kit (seriously required in anything other than low light). Lens hood, keeps stray light out and lets you store the quad safely without the stupid gimbal cover. Bright color skin wrap. Who the fuck thought it was a good idea to make an RC flyer sky colored??? Peels off with no residue if you hate it. DJI approved Samsung EVO 64GB card. Antenna enhancer (helps in some cases, not others). The used kits seem to go for $490 on eBay without the extras. How about $450 shipped with everything? It has been unbound from my account and ready to bind to yours.

These are tasty and interesting. Satisfying. Crunchier than an almond with more of a crispy cracker give than the chew of an almond, earthy light flavor. They have about 1/3 the fat of a typical nut and much more fiber and protein than most. Also lower carb than most. Seems ideal for snacking, though they are still high calorie, just slightly lower than most others. The only downsides I can find are cost and availability. I grabbed them on Amazon, and they are probably 2x the price of mainstream nuts (just a guess, I don't really consciously track nut prices). A lot of the satisfaction my come from their high volume (fiber) relative to weight and calories. A solid handful of most nuts is 35 grams and around 200 calories. With these, it's 25g and 125 calories. That's a big difference. Measured scientifically with my calibrated handcrometer. Actually I do always get my nut weights within 3g if I just grab what I can hold. YHMV Anyway, they will become a regular in my pantry. Amount Per 100 grams (3.52 oz) Baru Nut Cashews Almonds Peanuts Walnuts Macadamia Brazil Nut Calories 502 574 579 587 718 718 858 Protein (g) 24.1 15.3 21.1 24.3 15.2 7.8 14.3 Carbs (g) 13.5 32.7 21.5 21.2 17.8 13.4 11.7 Iron (mg) 4.7 6 3.7 1.6 2.6 2.65 2.4 Zinc (mg) 4.4 5.6 3.1 2.7 1.2 1.3 4.0 Fiber (g) 13.5 3 12.5 8.4 6.7 8 7.5 Potassium (mg) 832 565 733 634 441 363 859

Yeah, not in our dry weather... Fucker.

"Best by" dates are so...wildly differing. Some things are certainly bad right then. Some are fine for years. Though I do notice some just going "off" in a not terrible way, but less good. There's a date on my salt container. Shit's been fine for millions of years, just my luck to buy it a couple years before it expires.

I have some very nice Knipex dykes that were getting harder and harder to open and close. I thought they had a defect. Why would a hinged tool get harder to use instead of loose? Their warranty department told me to soak it in light penetrating oil for at least a day, as that should cure it. Skeptical but ok. Well fuck me if it didn't work. Also, after a week or so, it's smoother than it every was. So if you have tightly hinged tools like this, soak them. I have no idea what was in there making them stick. They got to where two-handed use was about impossible. They live in my tool bag and get light use for appropriate electrical wire and super light metals like tying wire or tiny screws (3mm or less).

Adding link to original post.

I don't know C at all. I can do Bash scripts ok, and very limited Python. I started programming in 1980 on a Heathkit H8 with an H19 terminal, and then a Vax via a printing terminal and 110 baud acoustic MODEM. Just BASIC on one, and Pascal and COBOL on the other. I was never good at COBOL. Then I learned the scripting language on a Tandem Non-Stop but can't remember it. Then RPG on System/36. The only modern "language" I know is Asterisk, the mostly linear language used to process phone calls and system options. [scottsdale#main] include => scottsdale#extensions include => inv_tout exten => s,1,Answer() same => n(start),Wait(0.5) same => n,BackGround(scottsdale/${prefix}bus-off-if-know) same => n,BackGround(scottsdale/${prefix}appt-0&scottsdale/s-sp-rep-5) ; same => n(menu),BackGround(scottsdale/${prefix}account-3) same => n(menu),BackGround(scottsdale/${prefix}admin-4&scottsdale/${prefix}dir-6) same => n,BackGround(scottsdale/${prefix}re-star) same => n,WaitExten(2) same => n,Set(i=${IF($[${EXISTS(${i})}]?${INC(i)}:1)}) ;if i exist incremented it otherwise set to 1 ;cli will show a NOTICE one first use which is safe to ignore same => n,GotoIf($[${i} < 3]?menu:t,1) same => n,Hangup() exten => 3,1,Goto(scottsdale#account,s,1) ;ACCOUNT exten => 4,1,Goto(scottsdale#admin,s,1) ;ADMIN ;WARNING- when setting multiple vars including one set from a var containing external data be careful. ; Changed so CLID name to be set last because it might be formatted in a way that is interpreted as multiple items and gets pushed into prefix.. ; here is an example from the CLI where a problem occurred: ;[2016-02-25 19:13:20] -- Executing [5@scottsdale#main:1] Set("SIP/INITIATEL-1-00006f8a", "ARRAY(CALLERID(name),prefix)=SPAN-OSORTO,JORGE,s-") in new stack ; the above caused this problem: ;[2016-02-25 19:13:20] WARNING[10816][C-00005519]: file.c:701 ast_openstream_full: File scottsdale/JORGEaccount-3 does not exist in any format exten => 5,1,Set(ARRAY(prefix,CALLERID(name))=s-,"SPAN-${CALLERID(name)}"); SPANISH same => n,Goto(s,menu) exten => 6,1,GoSub(subNameDirectory,s,1) ;DIRECTORY exten => *,1,Goto(s,menu) exten => #,1,Goto(s,menu) exten => 0,1,Goto(scottsdale#extensions,7370,1) ;OPERATOR